Hello I was wondering what I can do about some rusted nuts on my boat. I think the nuts might be orginal for the boat from the 70's. So far I can't get them off.... Don
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Use a 6 point socket or 6 point box end
wrench until you get it loose so that you don't round off the corners and cause another problem. Let a good penetrant soak in over night
wrench until you get it loose so that you don't round off the corners and cause another problem. Let a good penetrant soak in over night
Don't break the bolt
In getting rusty nuts off a common problem is the application of too much torque. This causes the bolt to twist off. A technique I've used to great success it to twist the nut a little and then retighten it. Then twist the nut again this time going a little (1/32 turn) farther. Then tighten the nut again. Repeat till the nut is off.
In getting rusty nuts off a common problem is the application of too much torque. This causes the bolt to twist off. A technique I've used to great success it to twist the nut a little and then retighten it. Then twist the nut again this time going a little (1/32 turn) farther. Then tighten the nut again. Repeat till the nut is off.
Attached to the forward bollard.....
Of course its as far forward as you can go and you have no room.... They are holding the backing plate.... Kinda thinking about leaving them now. Their are stress cracks around the bollard and the wood is not as strong as it once was I'm guessing.. but it did survive two huricans while moored that way.....wish they would just come off.. got one to move but the screw is spinning so I'm guessing the bolt isn't going anywhere.... Don
Of course its as far forward as you can go and you have no room.... They are holding the backing plate.... Kinda thinking about leaving them now. Their are stress cracks around the bollard and the wood is not as strong as it once was I'm guessing.. but it did survive two huricans while moored that way.....wish they would just come off.. got one to move but the screw is spinning so I'm guessing the bolt isn't going anywhere.... Don
If all else fails use a nut cracker (splitter)
A nut cracker or nut splitter is a tool that looks like a small fat C clamp with a mandril of hardened steel that resembles a coal chisel. You put it across the flats of the nut and you turn a machine screw that compresses the mandril and it cuts into the nut until the nut splits with a bang. It sounds like a little explosion. you then run a dye over the threads to clean them up and go get a new nut. I have one but I haven't bought one in many years, so I don't know what they cost, but they shouldn't be too expensive. Good Luck Joe S
A nut cracker or nut splitter is a tool that looks like a small fat C clamp with a mandril of hardened steel that resembles a coal chisel. You put it across the flats of the nut and you turn a machine screw that compresses the mandril and it cuts into the nut until the nut splits with a bang. It sounds like a little explosion. you then run a dye over the threads to clean them up and go get a new nut. I have one but I haven't bought one in many years, so I don't know what they cost, but they shouldn't be too expensive. Good Luck Joe S
DREMEL
The advice to soak the nuts is excellent, but in some cases it also fails. I have had to cut the sides off several nuts with a Dremel Tool. Thus weakened the easily open up. Regards,
The advice to soak the nuts is excellent, but in some cases it also fails. I have had to cut the sides off several nuts with a Dremel Tool. Thus weakened the easily open up. Regards,
Kroil Rules
PB Blaster is ok but Kroil is hands down the best. www.kanolabs.com or just search for Kroil on Google
PB Blaster is ok but Kroil is hands down the best. www.kanolabs.com or just search for Kroil on Google
Not many places for a hot wrench on a boat
But if you're able to get at the nut with a propane torch to heat it up between doses of Kroil or PB. Also, if you can heat it up, touch a paraffin candle to it. the heat will suck the wax into the threads. Again, this trick is typically used on old cars, but don't know of many places you can use it on a boat. I'd probably stick with PB Blaster or Kroil (PB is usually easier to find locally and is nearly as good as Kroil). Another spray that I've never used but is supposed to be even better than Kroil is Chrysler MoPar Manifold Heat Control Valve solvent. Supposed to be able to get it through a Chrysler parts shop.
But if you're able to get at the nut with a propane torch to heat it up between doses of Kroil or PB. Also, if you can heat it up, touch a paraffin candle to it. the heat will suck the wax into the threads. Again, this trick is typically used on old cars, but don't know of many places you can use it on a boat. I'd probably stick with PB Blaster or Kroil (PB is usually easier to find locally and is nearly as good as Kroil). Another spray that I've never used but is supposed to be even better than Kroil is Chrysler MoPar Manifold Heat Control Valve solvent. Supposed to be able to get it through a Chrysler parts shop.
I've had good luck cutting nuts off
with a good sharp chisel and three-pound sledge. Start at the top,or outer end, of the nut and work down, along the axis of the bolt, not sideways.
with a good sharp chisel and three-pound sledge. Start at the top,or outer end, of the nut and work down, along the axis of the bolt, not sideways.
You guys have done well with advice and I know Fred is wanting to say something
Don, consider drilling the screw/bolt out. Drill from top sides and start with a center punch in the center of the screw. The phillips or straight slot will want to make the drill bit travel so, center punch it first. Then, a small bit at least 1/8 deep then a larger bit. If you drill it out, you don't have to subject you deck to mashings with a hammer. The other option is to intensionally breaking the bolt and thus being able to disconnect the bollard ( I am assuming that it is a cleat with 2 screws through it.) Use sharp bits and drill slowly. r.w.landau
Don, consider drilling the screw/bolt out. Drill from top sides and start with a center punch in the center of the screw. The phillips or straight slot will want to make the drill bit travel so, center punch it first. Then, a small bit at least 1/8 deep then a larger bit. If you drill it out, you don't have to subject you deck to mashings with a hammer. The other option is to intensionally breaking the bolt and thus being able to disconnect the bollard ( I am assuming that it is a cleat with 2 screws through it.) Use sharp bits and drill slowly. r.w.landau
If you have to drill it
and it has a slot head or phillips head, take a grinder, sander will work, and make a flat spot on the head. Then center punch and drill. A screwdriver slot is hell on drill bits, and will often snap one off.
and it has a slot head or phillips head, take a grinder, sander will work, and make a flat spot on the head. Then center punch and drill. A screwdriver slot is hell on drill bits, and will often snap one off.
Rusted Nuts
Best way is to either grind or cut them off with a suitable tool (Grinder, Hack Saw-new blade- or demolition saw)ggc
Best way is to either grind or cut them off with a suitable tool (Grinder, Hack Saw-new blade- or demolition saw)ggc
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