running wires in mast
- Thread starter Chuck Creel
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Is there..
Are the halyards internal?
Will the stick be up or down?
Is the spar keel or deck stepped?
What already goes to the top of the spar if anything?
If I have one bit of advice, without knowing the above info, it would be to use a good fish tape.
Is there a wire chase in the spar?
Are the halyards internal?
Will the stick be up or down?
Is the spar keel or deck stepped?
What already goes to the top of the spar if anything?
If I have one bit of advice, without knowing the above info, it would be to use a good fish tape.
Re: Is there..
lol thanks maine sail,
for pointing that out as i should have given more info. The spar is deck stepped, There are halyards running as well as wire for anchor /steam light. Dont really know yet if there is a chase or not as this is my first attemp in restoring / upgrading a boat. I was thinking of using a through deck connection " water tight of course" but not real keen on making more hol;es to leak.
lol thanks maine sail,
for pointing that out as i should have given more info. The spar is deck stepped, There are halyards running as well as wire for anchor /steam light. Dont really know yet if there is a chase or not as this is my first attemp in restoring / upgrading a boat. I was thinking of using a through deck connection " water tight of course" but not real keen on making more hol;es to leak.
Here is an archived thread that might help: http://forums.hunter.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=324418 .
Chuck..
The way I would approach this would be to confirm that the anchor light wire can be pulled both up and down in the mast and is free to move.
If it can move I would use it as my messenger to pull a new anchor light wire and the wind data wire through the spar. As you're doing you might want to consider pulling a fresh nylon messenger though as well for future expansion/upgrades.
While you may be able to do this with the spar up it would be easier to do it when down. I have actually installed a radome & bulky cable with the spar up and I definitely don't advise that..
A wind instrument is a PITA to do with it up but a lot more doable than a radome..
I know you probably don't want to run a new anchor light wire but it may make it easier and will give you a new known quality wire for your anchor light. Phil is having a great sale on wire here so that may save you money!
Chuck,
The way I would approach this would be to confirm that the anchor light wire can be pulled both up and down in the mast and is free to move.
If it can move I would use it as my messenger to pull a new anchor light wire and the wind data wire through the spar. As you're doing you might want to consider pulling a fresh nylon messenger though as well for future expansion/upgrades.
While you may be able to do this with the spar up it would be easier to do it when down. I have actually installed a radome & bulky cable with the spar up and I definitely don't advise that..
A wind instrument is a PITA to do with it up but a lot more doable than a radome..I know you probably don't want to run a new anchor light wire but it may make it easier and will give you a new known quality wire for your anchor light. Phil is having a great sale on wire here so that may save you money!
If your Hunter has a spar anything like that on my 1983 H37 Cutter (mine is a Kenyon 5280 section) there is probably a wire channel behind the sail track. On the Kenyon 5280 it is possible to slide the sail track out the bottom of the mast to expose all the wiring in its channel. Check the RigRite website for info.
Don't think so Jim. Only the 36 and 37C had a mast section large enough for the wire channel behind the sail track. A very nice feature I might add. But not something that you could use unless the mast was on the ground. As I recall the sliding cover only came out the bottom.
Pretty sure, Chuck, that you will have to run a new wire inside the mast. Even if there is a conduit in there it is doubtful another wire will fit. You can use the trick of wrapping a nylon wire tie every four or five feet to keep it from slapping in there.
Pretty sure, Chuck, that you will have to run a new wire inside the mast. Even if there is a conduit in there it is doubtful another wire will fit. You can use the trick of wrapping a nylon wire tie every four or five feet to keep it from slapping in there.
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