Running rigging

[Bob Mc]

I am looking at a Catalina 28 that has all lines leading to the cockpit. I thought this was going to be a feature that I like, however after the sea trial part of the survey I'm not so sure. The lines lead to the cockpit but not to the helm so it seems I would have to step away from the wheel to adjust the main sheet(which is in a jam cleat) or the traveler. I am relatively new to sailing so there is a good chance there is something I'm missing here. Maybe it's as easy as changing the main sheet to a jam cleat.

 

[Warren Milberg]

The lines on my H28.5 also run back to the cockpit, but some like the main sheet, are forward of the helm. When sailing solo, this does mean I have to step forward of the wheel to make some adjustments, but it's relatively easy to set the wheel brake and make the adjustments -- far, far easier than to have to leave the cockpit and go up on deck to make an adjustment. Also, on some points of sail the boat will balance perfectly and so leaving the helm for a brief time is not a problem as the boat is sailling itself. I do think it important to be able to reach the self-tailing headsail sheet winches from the helm seat, which I can on my boat. Not sure how the Cat 28 is rigged, however. My guess it that you will really like having the lines run back to the cockpit as opposed to the alternatives.... Cat 28 is a nice boat, imho.

 

[Scott T-Bird]

Control lines to cockpit is better ...

I'm with Warren. But the ease of adjusting lines from your cockpit can depend on where components are set-up. On our boat, the working winches for the genoa are towards the back where I can work the genny sheets from behind the pedestal. The only other controls that I need to work from behind the pedestal when tacking is the traveler controls. Even though the track is at the bridge deck, the cam cleats are at the outboard ends and I can work the control lines like the reins of a buggy. The photo with our dog shows the set-up (except she is lying on the control lines).

Did you mean a cam cleat for your main sheet? I can't envision a jam cleat for that control unless the sheet is led to a cabin-top winch. I would like to be able to control the main sheet from behind the pedestal but it doesn't really work because of the position of the cam cleat. I generally sail the boat single-handed by positioning myself on the seats ahead of the pedestal in between tacks and reaching for the wheel. When it's time to change course, I move behind the wheel and work the genny sheets and traveler lines.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Catalina installed CLAM cleats for the mainsheets. Many of us have replaced them with sheetstoppers, left open during sailing with the mainsheet around the winch. Much easier.

We sail a C34 with the same arrangement. With an autopilot you can stop being a slave behind the wheel. Also, it is easier to dump the traveler than the mainsheet or feather up in a gust. This is a tad different than small boat sailing when you're sitting with a tiller and the mainsheet is in your hand.

 

[mark_swart]

If the boat has a traveler, one trick is to put long enough lines into it that they can reach back to the helm. That way you can do little tweaks just by 'whipping' them to pop them loose from the jam cleats without going forward.
The only other option is a boat with a mainsheet traveler in the middle of the cockpit, which interfered with your ability to mount a bimini and can also be a shin buster.

 

[bffatcat]

sheet and winch placement

You said running rigging. Im going to assume you are talking about Main and jib sheets, not
Halyards. Your main sheet should always be within easy reach of the helmsman. If its not
it should be moved to where it is in reach without having to leave the helm. Your jib sheets should run to winches. They can be on the cabin roof or the coamings. If you want to
single hand Your winches should be accessable without having to move far.

 

[victorhoisington]

Re: sheet and winch placement

I sail a H28, a buddy has a C28, both of us have lines led to the cockpit. I make sure my mainsheet has enough length so that when standing at the helm I can loop it over the binnacle and thus always have it available for instant adjustments, in talking with my buddy and watching him sail he does the same. Its a simple matter to put a littel flip in the line to release it from the Jam cleat make my adjustment and then cleat it back down.

The jib sheets are on either side and can be easily reached without having to let go of the helm, again, easy adjustments. I just move to the side, put my butt against the wheel and adjust the sheets. Smae goes for the roller furling when needed.

My traveler isn't set up quite as well, (a project for this year). I can set the main sheet, set the jib and then lock the helm to move forward to adjust the traveler. Not ideal but by the time I'm ready for a traveler adjustment everything else is relatively stable.

All of this is from within the cockpit, meaning I'm safe, dry and generally don't have to leave the conversation when adjusting trim. Of course, if I've got crew on board to help with adjustments, I can aften put them at the helm, point them in the right direction and then do all my adjustments including setting up the lazy jib sheet for the next tack.

Biggest issue I've run into with lines led to the cockpit is previous owners who didn't want "extra" line so would cut them too short making some of the steps above hard to accomplish. I always try to end up with more line than needed when replacing running rigging. Its always easier to trim line than add length to it.

Figuring out the rythmn you need to make all the right adjustments and in what order is one of the things about a new boat. It takes a while but you will figure it out.

Fairwinds

 

[Scott T-Bird]

Last I heard, running rigging means halyards, too. I think the halyards should be led to the cockpit on a small boat that is single-handed for safety more so than convenience. One thing I have noticed is that the larger the boat, the more secure you are at the mast. On small boats like ours, the coach roof is rounded and narrow and we don't have those guards to aid our grip. A miss-step at the mast is much more likely to land us in the water than it would be on a larger boat.

That said, I still have to go forward to the mast to hook the tack on the horn when I reef. My reef lines only haul in the clew. That's a mod for the future in my boat.

I read the comments about the mainsheet with interest. I can grip the mainsheet from behind the pedestal and release it easily enough from the cam cleat. If you notice the angle, you can see that it is easy to release by snapping down but I can't ever get it cleated again. The problem is the angle is too high and I don't have a long enough reach to pull that line up into the cleat. So if I uncleat it, then I'm kind of stuck with it loose until I can move forward.

I only need to adjust the traveler when behind the wheel so it works for me to simply not worry about the mainsheet until I position myself in front of the pedestal. I can always dump wind with the traveler in a pinch.

I might be able to find a block and cleat assembly to solve that problem, though.