running rigging threaded thru boom

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Dennis Brooks

I have been replacing the running rigging on my Hunter 23 (1987). I replaced the haylards with no problem. I thought I would replace the lines thru the boom also. I am having trouble running lines thru my boom. I didn't have trouble with the reefing line, it went through like a charm. The out haul line is a different story. I started moving the line in but then it felt like it jammed. I couldn't move it any more forward. I then had to pull the line aft to get the new line back out. I tried to run a stiff wire through the boom and it came to a stop also. Does anyone have any answers to this problem? You all have helped me tremendously with other problems I have had. I would appreciate your expertise.
 
Feb 7, 2005
132
Hunter 23 Mentor, Ohio
Kenyon Boom

Dennis - there are 2 or 3 different setups that came with the H23. Mine is a Kenyon. On it, the end nearest the mast comes off by removing 3 screws. Perhaps if you gained access there, you could run the outhaul or a messenger wire in the aft direction to get past whatever is obstructing it. My boom was set up with the outhaul in the center and a reefing line to each side. I ran my topping lift through the second reef channel but will probably go back to the way it was to restore the second "jiffy reef" and find a better solution for the topping lift. Is your rig set up how I described my Kenyon? By the way - I had the opposite problem - the reefing lines are the ones I had trouble threading. In my case, I think they are simply too large in diameter. Can't tell if they are OEM stuff or PO installation.
 
Dec 2, 2003
4,245
- - Seabeck WA
On my bigger boat, that line is a two part.

That means it is threaded through a block and dead-ended inside the boom. The block has a fiddle and that is connected to the outhaul. It can't be serviced without disassembly. My boat's a H34. (Kenyon stuff too) Hope this helps.
 
D

Dennis Brooks

My running rigging

I appreciate the info Fred and Mike. Mike for you question on the lay out of my lines. The topping lift is on the port side of the boom. The out haul is in the middle and the reefing line is on the starboard side. I only tried to change the reefing and the outhaul lines. The reefing line was a breeze. The outhaul line was in bad shape. I have had the boat for a little over a year and knew the lines needed replacing. I fed the new line in using the old line like I did the other lines. It got about half way and then jammed. I then pulled out the new line from the aft part of the boom. I tried this several times and everytime it did the same thing. I really don't use the outhaul. I was telling my wife I was going to rig it where it would be all the way out. Until I can fix it right. Thanks and Merry Christmas from Dennis p.s. Have you heard of using a paper clip to pull the running rigging lines thru. I picked the tip up on the archives. It worked great. My boat is in a wet slip and I don't have a trailer. I need to keep my mast up if possible. When I decide to change the topping lift line I guess I will have to lower the mast.
 
Feb 7, 2005
132
Hunter 23 Mentor, Ohio
Fred - Rigging Question

Hey Fred - been meaning to tell you I visited your web page and really enjoyed the documentation of the restoration you did. The end product is beautiful. The setup of your boom seems similar to our H23's, although our reefing and outhaul lines run all the way through. Here's my question...if I understand correctly, you cut the horns used to anchor the reefing cringles off the gooseneck end of your boom. What to you do to secure the reefing tacks instead? I have found using the horns to be awkward and your photos made me wonder if you have an easier solution. Thanks, Mike
 
Dec 2, 2003
4,245
- - Seabeck WA
Mike Thank you!

That's awfully nice. Happy Holidays :) to you too. Sorry this is taking so long to write, my wife keeps calling me from work. Christmas, you know. Whew, done for now. :) Nothing holds the front of the sail in place. With single line reefing the halyard is eased and the luff lowered until the block reaches a predetermined location above the gooseneck. Then the halyard is locked. (a mark on the halyard tail serves this purpose) At that point continue pulling in the line until the sail is properly reduced. The thing to watch for is the avoidance of chafe. It's difficult to explain but once you try it you'll know what to look for. Simply put, make sure running lines don't rub against sailcloth. And after the first reef is set, the second reef line can be trimmed. It's easier than it sounds. I can do it while sitting in the cockpit at the cabin top stoppers. Just be sure you install the reefing stoppers on the same side as the halyard. That's pretty obvious, sorry. Oops, phones ringing. Pictures are on the third film strip, and it's her again,,,,
 
D

Dennis Brooks

Boom brand

I found out today I have a US Spars boom. I guess to get inside I am going to have to drill rivets out there are no screws. This is a real pain. I am still not positive about what I am doing. Once you get the ends off does a part slide out so I can work on the problem?
 
Dec 2, 2003
4,245
- - Seabeck WA
Don't think so Dennis. You should just find lines

and maybe a block and such. Don't worry about drilling out rivets. They are easy to replace. Just don't use too big of a bit. Start small and work your way up. Do one end of the boom first and get a look inside. That might be all you need to do. But, if the problem is at the other end it's no biggie. This isn't rocket science. You'll see. Rest easy. Merry Christmas, or if you're a realist like me, Happy Holidays. :)
 
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