Running Rigging Specs

reefmagnet · Oct 27, 2001

I'm not an expert on breaking strengths, but I believe 3/8 is strong
enough for all. However, I'd advise using 1/2" for your jib sheets.
The larger size is much easier on your hands, and unlike the halyards
you'll be hauling the jibsheets a lot. If you have the wooden "grab"
type cleats for the jib sheets just behind the winches, the 1/2" size
jibsheets fit them perfectly (in my case, at least).
Tom

emile.dutoit@... wrote:

reefmagnet · Oct 28, 2001

Emile, That's what we use and it has worked fine. Walt, Lyric #120

reefmagnet · Oct 29, 2001

Thanks for the info! Also, it looks like I should replace the
turnbuckles, as they were bent, when the mast was taken down!
Can you reccommend the open body style over the closed tube style
Which size do I ask for?If I replace the wire halyards with 3/8 rope (3 stranded), I need a
sheave of 8:1 ....Has anyone done this? What is the reccommened specs
for the masthead sheaves when using the mentioned rope?

Thanks
emile

reefmagnet · Oct 29, 2001

Hello: I replaced my wire/rope halyards with all-rope 3/8" Sta-Set X (New
England Ropes) and used the original sheaves. Works just fine. I also
replaced turnbuckles with open type, 3/8" bronze. My originals were cracked!
I used Hayn "Merriman" type with bronze forks each end. I'm not sure they
still make these bronze ends, but they do have a stainless toggle-type end
with a bronze open barrel. I wouldn't use a closed barrel turnbuckle- no
advantages and can't see corrosion. Also replaced standing rigging with new
3/16" type 316 with Sta-Lok ends -- the only way to go in my opinion. I
switched to 3/8" clevis pins throughout as they fit the chainplates a little
better than the originals. How to spend Brian Hofler's money, eh Brian?

Bill Bach, V 1071 Calimera, Portland, Oregon

reefmagnet · Oct 30, 2001

Bill, thanks for some great information.
I also plan on using Hayn open turnbuckles, but with toggles on both
ends. Four of my originals have bent at the fork, so I figure giving
the extra movement of the toggles, it should be safer.

What did you use on the halyards for attaching the sail? (Thimble
loop, splice...then snap shackle?)Please give details.

What is the spec of your sheets for jib/genoa/spinnaker?
(type of line and length, fittings?)

I looked at the Hayn Catalog, and it looks great, but they say they
only sell to trade? Do I have to order through a dealer then?

By the way, have you seen the new swageless Quickfit system

Loading…

www.bosunsupplies.com

Goodoldboat rated it against stalok and norseman. It did pretty well
and the advantage is that one does not even have to open the wire to
fit the cone, the "cone" if one could call it that, fits over the
wire, not inside. They claim it assembles in minutes without special
tools. I will investigate...

Regards
Emile
S/V Aquila

reefmagnet · Oct 30, 2001

Hey Bill:

I know our Canadian dollar goes far but...re-rigging for a $100...Can't wait
to see you at next years VEGAtarian reunion.

Cheers - 1039

[Brian Hofler]

reefmagnet · Oct 30, 2001

Emile, I changed the wire cable halyards to rope this last spring and the sailloft that re rigged the halyards used the same masthead sheaves. No problems this past season but maybe I should look out.
Dave
V3233

reefmagnet · Oct 30, 2001

FWIW I did the same, that is, all rope 3/8 Sta-Set X halyards to replace the wire/rope originals with original masthead sheaves, 3/16" 316 SS wire standing rigging with Sta-Lok fittings and bronze turnbuckles and toggles with 3/8" pins. We took the mast down and did all the work ourselves (The beauty of the tabernacle stepped mast and Sta-Lok wire terminals). Just a matter of carefully measuring (Twice), cutting and assembly. I also omitted shackles on the halyards. We use simple bowlines now.

Aloha,

Chuck

BBach1949@... wrote:

reefmagnet · Oct 30, 2001

Emile: OK, here goes: Main halyard has a formed soft eye over a Wichard
headboard shackle, oversized since I hate little pins with cold hands. Jib
halyard is fisherman's bend to a large bail snap shackle. You don't need the
eye on either halyard - a fisherman's bend is easier and won't jam in the
sheave. All halyards run aft to cockpit. Jib sheets are 3/8 dacron, nothing
special, and I use bowlines to the clew. After a snap shackle failure on a
flogging sail, bowlines are cheaper and safer. If you tie them right they
don't hang up when tacking. I have a cruising spinnaker, so something
lightweight is good -5/16 is big enough for sheets. Spinnaker halyard is
3/8" dacron, again nothing special, and I keep only a light messenger line
rigged and pull the halyard up when I need it. I'm going to get a spinnaker
sock for next year, if only to avoid "boat fights" with the first mate.

I got my turnbuckles mail order - Defender (defenderus.com) is easy to deal
with and carries anything Hayn has. I stuck with StaLoks due to their
superior reputation. I bought them through Cascade Yachts in Portland at a
substantial discount, but you can get them direct (at retail) from Sailing
Services in Miami (the distributor). Brion Toss in Port Townsend, Wash will
also sell them cheaper than retail.

It's fun to make up a new set of standing rigging, really! Just make sure
that you set up the old rig where you want it and mark the turnbuckles before
you take the mast down. There's no room for estimating later. I forget how
much all this cost, just like I've done with all boat stuff.
Bill Bach, V1071 Calimera

reefmagnet · Oct 31, 2001

Emile,
I just started a reply but I think I sent into the far distant reaches of
cyber space. We did everything everyone else did. Bronze turnbuckles with
stainless screws and toggle ends. 3/16" wire and Staloks. 3/8" StaSet-X for
the halyards and never got around to splicing the ends, just used bowlines.
Buy a couple of feet longer than you need and every year reverse them end
for end. When you buy your wire buy an additional piece as long as your
forestay and you can replace any stay on the boat with it if you ever break
one. Stalok also makes a double ended connector to use to repair a broken
stay. Before you assemble your Staloks get a small piece of hardwood and
drill several holes in it. Drill these big enough so that the base of the
Stalok cone will just fit into it. If you ever have to take one of thes
apart getting the old wire out is hard! Cut the wire flush with the top of
the cone, heat it up with a torch or on the stove (not real Hot!)put the
base of the cone in the hole you drilled and hit the wire with a metal
punch. It should come out with little difficulty.
What are these other connectors that were mentioned? There were some out a
while back that used epoxy in the connection, the concern was if the boat
got struck with lightening the epoxy would melt and the rig would come down.
Good luck with the project, Walt, Lyric #120
P.S. We used a 1/4" piece of stainless plate cut into a triangle with holes
drilled in the corners to connect up the split backstay. We were able to rig
a removable decklight to this whick gives us a lot of light in the cockpit
for night time activities; cleaning fish, using the barbecue, projecting,
etc.

reefmagnet · Oct 31, 2001

Thank you all for the great information!
It is much appreciated!
All the best,
Emile
S/V Aquila Hull#176