Just discoverd (the hard way when I removed the mast cap) that the mast on my 26M in filled with expanded foam. Anyone have an efficient way of "boring" a hole through the foam so the cablle can be run? I have heard that the issue has been on the forum before but cannot find it. One thing I have thought about is to take small rigid tubing with saw teeth cut on the end and working it down the mast. Any help would be great!
Running Coax Inside Mast on 26M
- Thread starter powersailor
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open cell foam will absorb water.
you'd have to get all of the foam out if you use a pressure washer.
otherwise you add weight up high which will hurt the sailing performance.
you'd have to get all of the foam out if you use a pressure washer.
otherwise you add weight up high which will hurt the sailing performance.
How about renting a drain clean out snake?
Maybe add a bit of metal coat hanger in an 'S' bend if you need a larger diameter.
Maybe add a bit of metal coat hanger in an 'S' bend if you need a larger diameter.
Go to the other forum where there are a lot of X and M owners ....
http://www.macgregor26x.com/forum/index.php
.... and ask the question there also as it has come up before or do a search using Google with ...
Our Endeavour 37
Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida
Our MacGregor S Pages
Mac-Venture Links
http://www.macgregor26x.com/forum/index.php
.... and ask the question there also as it has come up before or do a search using Google with ...
Here is one reply I saw...
Sum
Our Endeavour 37
Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida
Our MacGregor S Pages
Mac-Venture Links
It can be done with two 10' PVC tubes. There are only three 1 foot sections of foam in the original 26M mast. I carved saw teeth in the end of a 10' pvc tube then filed a sharp edge on each tooth to create a long hole saw. You will need to glue the two sections together to make it down to the last section which is about 10' from the base. As you cut through you will have to withdraw the hole saw and remove the sections of core to continue on thru. After that you can either leave the pvc saw in place as a conduit or remove it, then run your wires down through. It is not all that difficult to do, just time consuming, I did it easy enough.
OK - does anyone know where to find the thru cabin top fitting I have seen in the past that has 2 male connectors and a cap? Similar to the thru hull used for the mast head light but for PL 259s. I have checked West Marine and a dozen other places.
Contact a ham, (amature radio),suppier. http://search.cartserver.com/search...00&keywords=pl259+connectors&go4.x=21&go4.y=8
http://www.aesham.com/photos2/AIMCPAD207.jpg
or
http://www.dogpile.com/info.dogpl.t2.10/search/web?q=amature+radio+supplier
Chuck
http://www.aesham.com/photos2/AIMCPAD207.jpg
or
http://www.dogpile.com/info.dogpl.t2.10/search/web?q=amature+radio+supplier
Chuck
I never saw one, but if you find one post a link. I used the one that passes the cable....
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor2/outside-42.html
... through and then has a female connector at the deck at the end of the cable and another female at the bottom of the mast cable. When the mast is down I keep a male in both females to keep them clean,
Sum
Our Endeavour 37
Our Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida
Our MacGregor S Pages
Mac-Venture Links
West Marine PL-258 p/n 238568 bulkhead connector, p/n 157628 for cap
Texastowers.com has them
pasternack.com also
Fred
Texastowers.com has them
pasternack.com also
Fred
The one above at AES for ($5.99) and is the same thing as West Marine's for ($13.95)
Those bulkhead, all-threaded connectors may be convenient, but are generally made like crap. That goes for most typical UHF ( PL-259/PL-258) connectors. Look for one that is nickel plated and not chrome - like this - None are very weatherproof and require some sort of sealing. Just screwing a male into it will not keep the moisture out. If it were me, I'd consider a better quality connector such as an N-type. The connectors are just made heavier and usually out of better materials. The most important thing is to seal the connection. If you plan on leaving your mast up and not trailering, I'd go the whole butyl tape route where you first wrap the entire completed connection with electrical tape, then with butyl tape, then with electrical tape. If not, just a few wraps of electrical tape will hold you for a month or so.
PL-259's ( the male UHF connector) are not really durable and one method for improving the durablity, especially if you connect and disconnect often, is to add some heatshrink tubing at the base of the connector and extend down the cable a few inches. This helps distribute the stress and keep the cable from breaking at the connector base. I like to add about three overlapping layers that really stiffen the cable. It makes the connection very durable. If you use the adhesive lined heatshrink, it even adds some weatherproofing.
PL-259's ( the male UHF connector) are not really durable and one method for improving the durablity, especially if you connect and disconnect often, is to add some heatshrink tubing at the base of the connector and extend down the cable a few inches. This helps distribute the stress and keep the cable from breaking at the connector base. I like to add about three overlapping layers that really stiffen the cable. It makes the connection very durable. If you use the adhesive lined heatshrink, it even adds some weatherproofing.
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