Hey MJ, I have an 84' 37C and I've taken the rudder out many times, finally replaced it after many years because it was slightly bent, modified the bushing on the inside top, repacked the stuffing box and had it off twice, etc, etc. Just yesterday (if you can believe this), I had to disassemble the whole thing including taking the cables off the quadrant, just to get the shift/fuel cables out so I could cut a tie-wrap holding the old GPS cable, just so I could get it out of the pedistal. It wasn't too bad this time as I had already taken it apart many times already. Oh did I mention that I replaced the pedistal bolts (aluminum !!! ), replace the cable assembly, as well as the pulley assembly on the bottom just a year ago when all that rotted out enough to warranty R&R? To answer your question, I found that when adjusting the cable tension, it's good to have it in the water, have everything put together so you can turn the wheel and cause the rudder to move. If you yank on the wheel hard one direction then another (like you would have to coming into some of these passes in florida when fighting current), you'll see slack appear in the cable. If it's enough slack so that the weight of the cable itself causes it to fall out of a track on the quadrant or pulleys, then it's too loose. PS, best thing I've done to the whole steering systems was to make sure the emergency tiller works. I've not have any reason to use it, but, you know, .... right? Email me at
sailh37@yahoo.com if you want pics on the repairs I did. I've tried to share them on this site, but that part of the site just doesn't work worth a hoot... (ps, I'm a web developer of over 30 years, I'm qualified to trash it.)
Kb
