Rudder Skeg Bolts

[Rick Warner]

Roland, sailing out of Tarpon Springs, FL gave me some good advice about checking out the skeg bolts on my 1980 30' Hunter, Tense Moments. If galvanized bolts were used back then, would it be best to pull the skeg and replace the bolts or be satisfied with snugging them up? If I back off the four bolts in the aft section, will the skeg drop down enough on its own for me to inspect? Finally, where can I find a Munchkin to get back there with a socket wrench and do the work? I think I can reach back there if I crawl into the starboard locker, lay on my back, turn the socket with my left hand, and hope that the bolts are not frozen.

 

[Dan]

skeg or strut?

Rick, Are you talking about the strut or skeg? The skeg on my '81 H30 looks like it's part of the hull. The strut is held in place with 3 bolts on each side. Please advise if I'm out to lunch. Maybe it's a matter of symantics-If you are talking about the strut- it's an easy fix. I've removed and replaced mine twice twice, once with the boat in the water. Having a small first mate that is not claustraphobic helps.Hawaii Dan

 

[Roland]

Skegs and struts

The skeg holds the rudder and is fastened with four or five lag screws, ( I know I wrote lag bolts, sorry), screwed in from inside the hull.The strut holds the shaft in line and also contains the cutlass bearing. It is fastened with three or four nuts and bolts. The nut end being on the inside of the hull. While access is not easy it can be accomplished.If your 30 is built like mine, (it should be if it is the Cherubini design), the bulkhead at the aft end of the quarterberth is removable. This allows access to all parts in the stern. The panel between the quarterberth and engine compartment may also be removable. Access from the lazarette can be accomplished by a small person or contortionist. Don't get stuck!If you are in the water, check for leaking or signs of rust stains coming from the lags. Back a lag out and inspect. Replace with stainless. You might need to put a thin wood strip in the hole to get a bite. Also, squirt in some 5200. If it is leaking, pull the boat and do the job right. Remove, clean, lather on some 5200, use stainless lags, and glass the seam. Hope this helps.-Rolands/v Fraulein II

 

[Tom Boles]

Stainless in a hole in the boat, underwater????

I wonder if this is really a good idea, especially without knowing what grade the stainless is. From what I read, putting stainless in an area exposed to stagnent seawater, away from oxygen is a receipe for future problems. Naturally, people do it every day, and in many cases, everything works out OK.If you do got to the trouble of using stainless (which is still a step up from regular steel) make sure you 316 grade stainless, as opposed to 304. The former is MUCh more corrosion resistant, and may be the difference between just OK and really better.Good Luck!