Rudder replacement

Nov 23, 2011
2,023
MacGregor 26D London Ontario Canada
I had played with fiberglass years ago but have not in probably 30 years so I am sort of looking forward to trying that as well.
All you need is a good dust mask. (N95) and a bunch of disposable rubber gloves. (Tip Put two or three pairs on at a time. Remove one at a time as they get dirty.)
Remember to think through the whole process and have all the stuff you need ready to go before you start.
Here is a good bunch of videos about how to fiberglass. boatworkstoday.com

I apply a bunch of sunblock to my arms and hands. (Neck and head too if I'm grinding or cutting it.) The sunblock helps stop the glass from getting into your skin. It works well.
 
Nov 19, 2011
1,489
MacGregor 26S Hampton, VA
So give a basic order. assuming I have the core done. Do I coat it with epoxy and cover with fiberglass matting and roll it on with a small roller to get all the bubbles out? Once that dries, is a second coat required? Just epoxy or more mat?

When it's dry, trim and sand to a smooth finish? What about paint?
 

chp

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Sep 13, 2010
418
Hunter 280 hamilton
One thing I noticed is that my rudder actually goes beyond vertical when hauled down all the way. I will try to address this if I ever get around to trying again


Don't try to get the rudder vertical. I think this slightly forward position was done on purpose. I noticed the same on mine. The stop pin had broken on the rudder mount and started to bend the mounting plates. I put a bolt in and set it back to keep the rudder vertical. The pressure on the tiller was ten fold. This pressure really increased with speed. I have also done the rudder mod to increase the leading edge. I had to move the bolt back to its original position. Handling is much better now.
 
Oct 21, 2010
350
Macgregor 26S, "Myuna" Brisbane, Australia
Couple of comments:

Weather Helm
My 26S blade has been hitting the bottom of the S/S post and getting chipped (see photos). This of course brings the blade further forward and I agree it helps with reducing weather helm - if my blade is held down tight I do not have a weather helm problem. The following thread supports this same idea
http://www.ne-ts.com/mac/cc/cc-201mac26srud.html
and of course a number of people have commented along these lines above.

Rudder Blade Design
I have found this article on rudder and centerboard design and construction very easy to understand and not too technically complicated
http://mothboat.tripod.com/CMBA/Building/foils.htm
 

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Nov 23, 2011
2,023
MacGregor 26D London Ontario Canada
So give a basic order. assuming I have the core done. Do I coat it with epoxy and cover with fiberglass matting and roll it on with a small roller to get all the bubbles out? Once that dries, is a second coat required? Just epoxy or more mat?

When it's dry, trim and sand to a smooth finish? What about paint?
Short answer. Yes. Only one layer of glass depending on thickness. I think the thin stuff should have 2 layers put on at the same time.
Don't use a roller for getting bubbles out. It puts more in. (So I found.)
I use a brush and coat the core then put the cloth on and use a plastic squeegee. (Like for doing bondo on a car.)
The trick is getting the rudder to hang but still being able to work on both sides.
I've tried hanging it form the top... Not so good.
The last thing I did was a home made vacuume bag. It worked ok. A lot of work though.
Next rudder I am going to put dowels in the top and bottom. Like this l l .
then I can lay the rudder between tables and work on each side without it laying on the other.
The dowels can just be cut off later.
You could use screws too but they may be a pain to remove when the rudder is dry.