I have a 1980 30' Hunter and am looking to remove the rudder when the boat is out of the water for storage for some repairs during the winter season. Does anyone know the best and easiest way to remove the rudder to work on it at home in the off season. Should I contact Hunter directly or has anyone already done this?
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In the water
You should remove the rudder while still in the water. Other wise you will be digging a hole under the trailer or cradel. The rudder will float.
You should remove the rudder while still in the water. Other wise you will be digging a hole under the trailer or cradel. The rudder will float.
We did this with the boat out of the water. Yes you have to dig a hole. We hit a layer of hard-as-concrete clay so it was not easy. For my 28.5, the hole was about 3 ft deep. I found this a much easier job with 2 people. After the hole is dug, we laid a 2x4 under the rudder, detached it, and then removed the 2X4 and let it down gently into the hole.
Not as easy as it seems
Last year I removed my rudder to do extensive repairs (which took me all winter) and I had the yard do it when they pulled the boat out and still had it up in the sling. Had them put it back in the same way this past spring. I don't know what your yard would charge but for me it was worth every penny. Besides, my yard didn't want anyone to dig a hole in the ground and the ground was like concrete anyway.
Last year I removed my rudder to do extensive repairs (which took me all winter) and I had the yard do it when they pulled the boat out and still had it up in the sling. Had them put it back in the same way this past spring. I don't know what your yard would charge but for me it was worth every penny. Besides, my yard didn't want anyone to dig a hole in the ground and the ground was like concrete anyway.
Plan "B"
Is to block the boat up higher so the rudder shaft will clear when the rudder is dropped. The problem with this plan is to pain the bottom and wax the hull you need to use sawhorses or something similar. Before pulling the rudder make sure all the bolts will come out. Standardly the aluminum rudder quadrant and the stainless steel bolts don't get along very well and cause problems. Getting these problems out of the way first will enable the process of dropping the rudder much easier. You can loosen everything up ahead of time to ensure all the pieces will come apart when the time comes. Message to Mike H.: No wonder two people make it easier. The 2nd person is from Labor Ready at $15/hr and you get to watch him! (just a guess! At least that's the way I would do it.) And.... on another subject.... Just in case there is anyone that hasn't done it yet, Microsoft has a new patch for security fixes for Windows 98SE through at least Windows 2000 or XP. It's about a 10 minute download.
Is to block the boat up higher so the rudder shaft will clear when the rudder is dropped. The problem with this plan is to pain the bottom and wax the hull you need to use sawhorses or something similar. Before pulling the rudder make sure all the bolts will come out. Standardly the aluminum rudder quadrant and the stainless steel bolts don't get along very well and cause problems. Getting these problems out of the way first will enable the process of dropping the rudder much easier. You can loosen everything up ahead of time to ensure all the pieces will come apart when the time comes. Message to Mike H.: No wonder two people make it easier. The 2nd person is from Labor Ready at $15/hr and you get to watch him! (just a guess! At least that's the way I would do it.) And.... on another subject.... Just in case there is anyone that hasn't done it yet, Microsoft has a new patch for security fixes for Windows 98SE through at least Windows 2000 or XP. It's about a 10 minute download.
Rudder removal prep
About a week before you are ready to remove the rudder, start soaking the bolts of the steering quadrant with penetrating oil (Liquid wrench, WD-40) at least three or more times. The bolts are stainless and the quadrant is aluminum. Electrolisis builds and the bolts seize. Take my advise, if the bolts won't budge, don't force them. THEY WILL BREAK!
About a week before you are ready to remove the rudder, start soaking the bolts of the steering quadrant with penetrating oil (Liquid wrench, WD-40) at least three or more times. The bolts are stainless and the quadrant is aluminum. Electrolisis builds and the bolts seize. Take my advise, if the bolts won't budge, don't force them. THEY WILL BREAK!
I would not remove it in the water
That would be a desperate situation solution which if you can have your boat pulled and set on a cradle, you are not in. I dropped mine while in the yard last year, dug the hole, used the wd40 and it was still alot of work, but did it myself. While I had the chance, I let it dry out really well, sanded and sealed all the tiny blisters and gave it a heavy coat of Epoxy barrier. Then smoothed it out and reinstalled. My wife and I put it back in.. she's a seasoned "do it yourself husband's wife". Just don't do it a midnight when only biting bugs are nuts enough to be in the work yard.
That would be a desperate situation solution which if you can have your boat pulled and set on a cradle, you are not in. I dropped mine while in the yard last year, dug the hole, used the wd40 and it was still alot of work, but did it myself. While I had the chance, I let it dry out really well, sanded and sealed all the tiny blisters and gave it a heavy coat of Epoxy barrier. Then smoothed it out and reinstalled. My wife and I put it back in.. she's a seasoned "do it yourself husband's wife". Just don't do it a midnight when only biting bugs are nuts enough to be in the work yard.
The water was no problem
On my Hunter 31, the old rudder largely took care of itself. All I had to do was remove the rudder post. I installed the new rudder in the water with some help. It was cold, even in a dry suit in Texas; it was March. If you want to go this route, let me know and I can tell you what I did to make it a little easier.
On my Hunter 31, the old rudder largely took care of itself. All I had to do was remove the rudder post. I installed the new rudder in the water with some help. It was cold, even in a dry suit in Texas; it was March. If you want to go this route, let me know and I can tell you what I did to make it a little easier.
Check the archives also...
I had no problems whatsoever removing the rudder from my former boat ('82 h27). I had the yard prop the boat up a bit higher than normal. Sprayed the bolts with WD40. Loosened the quadrant (WITHOUT removing the steering cables), and simply worked the rudder down until it came out. Did it all myself. the most important thing to remember with these boats (Cherubini's), however, is to replace the rudder packing before re-installing.
I had no problems whatsoever removing the rudder from my former boat ('82 h27). I had the yard prop the boat up a bit higher than normal. Sprayed the bolts with WD40. Loosened the quadrant (WITHOUT removing the steering cables), and simply worked the rudder down until it came out. Did it all myself. the most important thing to remember with these boats (Cherubini's), however, is to replace the rudder packing before re-installing.
Has to be out of water
A 1980 Hunter 30 pretty much has to come out of the water to remove the rudder. The rudder "sits" on a support ( bearing ) surface on the bottom of the skeg, so unfortunately the skeg has to come off to get the rudder off. It's a potentially nasty job, so be sure you want/need to take it off. Check the archives under " rudder skeg" and hunter 30.
A 1980 Hunter 30 pretty much has to come out of the water to remove the rudder. The rudder "sits" on a support ( bearing ) surface on the bottom of the skeg, so unfortunately the skeg has to come off to get the rudder off. It's a potentially nasty job, so be sure you want/need to take it off. Check the archives under " rudder skeg" and hunter 30.
Oh yeah hole and blocks
If you do remove it, block it up higher, AND dig a hole. You can't block it up all the way to clear the rudder ( guys at my yard seemed wary to do it ) because you'd need to put about 32 inches under it ( about 32 inches from top of rudder to end of rudder shaft ). I could only get them to block it up about 20 inches, then had to dig a 12+ inch hole. All this concerning a 4ft draft boat.
If you do remove it, block it up higher, AND dig a hole. You can't block it up all the way to clear the rudder ( guys at my yard seemed wary to do it ) because you'd need to put about 32 inches under it ( about 32 inches from top of rudder to end of rudder shaft ). I could only get them to block it up about 20 inches, then had to dig a 12+ inch hole. All this concerning a 4ft draft boat.
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