Hi James,
I understand that the rudder configuration is very similar to my boat (a 44AC). It's pretty simple to remove the rudder, as long as the stainless safety pin isn't seized into the aluminum tiller block. If you have a shoal draft keel, you'll want the boat blocked fairly high. From memory, I would say around 18" of block under the keel. If you have the standard draft, just a normal block arrangement should work.
The floor behind the helm comes up with six, Phillips-head screws. There's four in the area that you stand behind the helm that face upward and two that are oriented horizontally at the back of the cover. In order to get to the two, horizontal screws, I need to pick up the tilting transom seat/door. It's likely the same for your boat.
After your remove the cover, it will look similar to this:
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My rudder post is GRP. Yours will certainly look differently.
The black chunk of aluminum is the tiller assembly. It clamps to the rudder stock with four, allen-key, stainless steel machine screws. A stainless steel safety pin inserts through the center of the tiller and rudder stock as a backup to the clamping system.
From right to left, the appurtenances that attach to the tiller asssembly are: the main steering link, the autopilot tiller angle sensor, and the autopilot ram arm.
It's wise to try to remove the pin first before removing the four clamping bolts. Run a line that will fit in your genoa winches from the port side winch, underneath the bottom of the rudder blade, and to the starboard winch. Tension the line to take up the weight of the rudder. Make sure you use a line that's thick enough to work in the winch self-tailers.
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The first time I removed my rudder, the stainless pin was seized into the aluminum tiller and it was an absolute bear that took a big fight with pry bars and press tools to get it off. I had a new pin made that has a detent in either end to give the press something to engage with.
Press Tool (this isn't the exact one I used - I would recommend taking some measurements and/or consider renting one from an auto parts store as a part of their tool rental program. This is often times free.)
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Here's a shot of the back of the tiller assembly. Not that I would NOT use this kind of seizing split pin again. Use a stainless cotter pin that you would use to seize rigging turnbuckles.
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This is a shot from this spring, the second time I removed the rudder (I remove it for inspection every time the boat is on the hard). Since I keep the pin greased, it removes from the tiller easily with a drift punch and some light tapping. The pin system is great, simple, and secure when the pin is kept greased.
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After the pin is removed, double check your lines that are holding the rudder up are secure and tensioned. Remove the four clamping screws. You'll be able to remove the rear part of the tiller (shaped like a half moon).
Now you can use your lines that are sheeted on the port and starboard winches to slowly lower the rudder down.
Voila. You have your rudder out.
Reassembly is essentially the same procedure. I would recommend that you install the stainless rudder pin first, before installing the four clamping screws. Make sure that you grease the rudder pin with a heavy duty, waterproof grease before installing it. On the clamping machine screws, I use blue Loctite on the threads to keep them secure and fight off corrosion. This has worked very well for me.
While you have the helm floor up, it's a good chance to grease the steering link and autopilot ram connections, and give the whole area a cleaning and waxing. Stuff builds up down there fast since the whole cockpit drains to this area. You'll probably find a few things that disappeared!
To seal the helm floor, I would recommend using butyl tape. It's a perfect application for this area since it's reusable and can bridge large gaps.
Good luck!
Geoff
