rudder removal while boat is in water

[Nelsonhow]

I've removed my rudder twice while on the hard. I guess you could do it when the boat was in the water if the and if the packing gland is above the waterline....... but the risk of breaking something on an old boat that is critical in keeping the water out is pretty high, especially looking at your pictures. If it was me I'd do it on the hard. You either have to dig a really deep hole under the rudder, or get the yard to lift the boat, but your pride and joy won't sink!

But if you do manage it while you're still in the water please let us know how it goes......

 

[qazvick]

Ok. Well... I know this is the slowest updating thread on a project ever, but i am making progress. The main issue was i was out of town for a few months for the most part.
Progress has been made. The rudder is at the shop being investigated right now. Its 100% not the original rudder. Nothing a out it matches up to any diagrams or specs sheet info I have. Either way, Im not trying to win any races and it got the job done so were primarily concerned about the integrity of it. He'll begin rebuilding and shaping the rudder. In the mean time ive been sand blasting, removing broken bolts and replacing all with new SS bolts, and repainting the steering quadrant. Juat a quick pic.

See yall again with an update hopefully in a few weeks.

 

[rardiH36]

Thanks for staying in touch about your project. I always enjoy reading what and how others are doing.

In the process, have you removed the chain/cable assembly from the wheel and pedestal?

If so, and just in case you didn't notice when you disassembled (or haven't read somewhere): For my Yacht Specialities helm, the cable crosses itself inside the pedestal before doing the 90 degree angle over the sheaves aft to the quadrant. And one of the sheaves is offset just a little bit more forward of the other which prevents the cable from rubbing against itself at the cross-over point. I know this because when I re-installed my system eight years ago, I just ran the cable straight down without crossing over. After standing back, feeling proud of getting everything back together, I turned the wheel while a friend observed the rudder motion. The rudder turned opposite of the wheel turn direction. Took a few minutes to figure out why. I needed then to remove both cable ends from the quadrant and then cross the cable inside the pedestal. Looking into the pedestal, I saw the cable was rubbing against itself inside. It was then I also noticed that the port and starboard sheaves were offset. I can't remember whether if it was the port or starboard side of the cable that was forward or aft, or which sheave was offset forward or aft. If your cable needs to be crossed over, check that the your sheave routing allows clearance at the cross-over point.

Please disregard this post if you already knew this!

 

[qazvick]

Appreciate the detailed response. All i did was disconnect the steering cables from the quadrant halves and let them hang and removed nothing from the pedestal. But still appreciate the response!

Thanks for staying in touch about your project. I always enjoy reading what and how others are doing.

In the process, have you removed the chain/cable assembly from the wheel and pedestal?

If so, and just in case you didn't notice when you disassembled (or haven't read somewhere): For my Yacht Specialities helm, the cable crosses itself inside the pedestal before doing the 90 degree angle over the sheaves aft to the quadrant. And one of the sheaves is offset just a little bit more forward of the other which prevents the cable from rubbing against itself at the cross-over point. I know this because when I re-installed my system eight years ago, I just ran the cable straight down without crossing over. After standing back, feeling proud of getting everything back together, I turned the wheel while a friend observed the rudder motion. The rudder turned opposite of the wheel turn direction. Took a few minutes to figure out why. I needed then to remove both cable ends from the quadrant and then cross the cable inside the pedestal. Looking into the pedestal, I saw the cable was rubbing against itself inside. It was then I also noticed that the port and starboard sheaves were offset. I can't remember whether if it was the port or starboard side of the cable that was forward or aft, or which sheave was offset forward or aft. If your cable needs to be crossed over, check that the your sheave routing allows clearance at the cross-over point.

Please disregard this post if you already knew this!

 

[ggrizzard]

Rardi, I did the same last spring and loved the extra hour in the qtr berth re-running the cables and re-attaching the clamps!

 

[qazvick]

I am at the end of my rope with trying to find a source for a new rudder packing nut. Anyone have any suggestions? Ive tried Buck A, Marine Hardware, Southeastern Founderies, my marina yard... All i can think off is take it to a machinist.

 

[qazvick]

Well.... 4 months later its finally happening. Rudder has been rebuilt and lengthened back to its original length. Also had a brand new rudder packing nut made from scratch. Looking forward to installing everything tomorrow.

 

[qazvick]

Rudder

 

[qazvick]

And she sails. All is well in the world again

 

[ggrizzard]

Will you share your source for the Packing Nut? I might need on as well.

 

[qazvick]

Will you share your source for the Packing Nut? I might need on as well.

Had to take it to a machine shopand have them replicate it. Not cheap. But there was no other way around the situation.

 

[Paul F]

The rudder on the shoal draft design is as low, deep, as the keel. If the boat is grounded the rudder may hit first resulting in bending the rudder shaft. This happened to me. My fix was to reconfigure the rudder into more of a square form by cutting 7" off the bottom and adding 7" to the back. I see Qazvick is in Dunedin, which is close to the boat works I used to do the work - http://www.americanboatworks.com/

Here is a thread covering the work that was done and the comments on the results and a few pictures.
http://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/33-strut-and-rudder.126996/#post-793077

 

[qazvick]

The rudder on the shoal draft design is as low, deep, as the keel. If the boat is grounded the rudder may hit first resulting in bending the rudder shaft. This happened to me. My fix was to reconfigure the rudder into more of a square form by cutting 7" off the bottom and adding 7" to the back. I see Qazvick is in Dunedin, which is close to the boat works I used to do the work - http://www.americanboatworks.com/

Here is a thread covering the work that was done and the comments on the results and a few pictures.
http://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/33-strut-and-rudder.126996/#post-793077

Interesting... Mine performs much better now that its been lengthened back.

 

[Alctel]

And she sails. All is well in the world again

Congrats! That looked like a TON of work!

 

[readerbill]

Paul F, what did you do about the bent rudder? I am about to drop my rudder while the boat is in the water due to the rudder shaft being bent.