My problem is that the rudder seems to keep riding up no matter how much I tighten the wing nut. The down haul is not attached. Which leads me to another question. Do I have to take the side plate off the rudder to attach the down haul? How good does it work once it's attached? Any other suggestions? Thanks for the help Paul H s/v Linda Belle
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Daniel
Tie it down
I have a H240 and have tried using a wing-nut on the rudder only to find that I can not tighten it enough to prevent the rudder from moving up, especially when sailing. I previously had a H19 and using the wing nut was no problem but no such luck with the 240. Using the down haul (and up haul) for the rudder has turned out to work really well. I admit that initially I found it bothersome to adjust it all the time, but now I really appreciate the flexability of it. My slip is located in a channel which has changing water levels and its great when I can adjust the rudder to accomidate the draft. Many other sailors are stuck in their slips for much of the summer. (They have been druging a new channel all summer!) I have worred about what will happen if (when) I his something with the rudder, but I guess something will have to give. Not sure on your question about the side plate, but I am sure someone more knowledgeable than I will comment on that. Good luck on what you decide. P.S. Had to pull the boat out of the water yesterday as winter is on it's way here in Wisconsin. Starting to dream about spring already!
I have a H240 and have tried using a wing-nut on the rudder only to find that I can not tighten it enough to prevent the rudder from moving up, especially when sailing. I previously had a H19 and using the wing nut was no problem but no such luck with the 240. Using the down haul (and up haul) for the rudder has turned out to work really well. I admit that initially I found it bothersome to adjust it all the time, but now I really appreciate the flexability of it. My slip is located in a channel which has changing water levels and its great when I can adjust the rudder to accomidate the draft. Many other sailors are stuck in their slips for much of the summer. (They have been druging a new channel all summer!) I have worred about what will happen if (when) I his something with the rudder, but I guess something will have to give. Not sure on your question about the side plate, but I am sure someone more knowledgeable than I will comment on that. Good luck on what you decide. P.S. Had to pull the boat out of the water yesterday as winter is on it's way here in Wisconsin. Starting to dream about spring already!
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Alan Long
Shear Pin
Some owners have drilled a hole through the rudder and the side plates, starting small. Place a wooden dowel through the hole and voila...a sheer pin. If the smallest size sheers too easily, make a bigger hole and try a larger dowel. I haven't tried this but is was discussed a while back in this forum.
Some owners have drilled a hole through the rudder and the side plates, starting small. Place a wooden dowel through the hole and voila...a sheer pin. If the smallest size sheers too easily, make a bigger hole and try a larger dowel. I haven't tried this but is was discussed a while back in this forum.
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Alan
The Rudder Creep
I think most if not all of us have been visited by the rudder creep. A while back someone posted their cure which has worked well for me and still allows the rudder to kick up when the water gets shallow. He tightened one of the lock nuts on the rudder assembly. I forgot what it is called and I can not explain which one without going back to the boat but it was obvious to me at the time when I looked at it. Anyway I tightened the bolt until there was a little resistance to raising and lowering the rudder. Then tightening the wingnut with the rudder down was all that was needed to keep it there. No more rudder creep. During an informal pick up race (don't know if the other guy knew that we were racing) I ran into shallow water with the swing keel up but then the rudder hit bottom but still kicked up. Sand is so forgiving! The shear pin sounds good but you need to drill through the rudder and it should be properly surfaced so the core does not get wet. Not sure how to put in a new line but the whole unit seems pretty easy to take apart. Alan
I think most if not all of us have been visited by the rudder creep. A while back someone posted their cure which has worked well for me and still allows the rudder to kick up when the water gets shallow. He tightened one of the lock nuts on the rudder assembly. I forgot what it is called and I can not explain which one without going back to the boat but it was obvious to me at the time when I looked at it. Anyway I tightened the bolt until there was a little resistance to raising and lowering the rudder. Then tightening the wingnut with the rudder down was all that was needed to keep it there. No more rudder creep. During an informal pick up race (don't know if the other guy knew that we were racing) I ran into shallow water with the swing keel up but then the rudder hit bottom but still kicked up. Sand is so forgiving! The shear pin sounds good but you need to drill through the rudder and it should be properly surfaced so the core does not get wet. Not sure how to put in a new line but the whole unit seems pretty easy to take apart. Alan
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Rick Webb
Alan may have it
Tightning the other bolts that sandwich the thing in may do it, and it is cheap. There is a diagram in the photo forum that shows the line setup with a 2:1 purchase for pulling it down I added it to mine and it works pretty well. The fix I would like to see is a way to pull the damn thing all the way up without getting wet. So far the best I have come up with is to put a the eye splice of a line around it getting some help from the boat hook and pulling it up. If anyone has a better technique alot of us would like to hear it.
Tightning the other bolts that sandwich the thing in may do it, and it is cheap. There is a diagram in the photo forum that shows the line setup with a 2:1 purchase for pulling it down I added it to mine and it works pretty well. The fix I would like to see is a way to pull the damn thing all the way up without getting wet. So far the best I have come up with is to put a the eye splice of a line around it getting some help from the boat hook and pulling it up. If anyone has a better technique alot of us would like to hear it.
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Norm Steffen
RUDDER CREEP
Two years ago I had read several compaints of the rudder creeping up while sailing. Consequently, during that first winter maintenance period I took the time to inspect the area of the rudder where the wing nut applies the friction tension. I found the two mating surfaces to really cruddy with dirt, algae and whatever. I removed the rudder from the the tiller assembly and thoroughly cleaned all mating surfaces then reassembled. I have not had the problem to date. Good sailing. Norm Steffen
Two years ago I had read several compaints of the rudder creeping up while sailing. Consequently, during that first winter maintenance period I took the time to inspect the area of the rudder where the wing nut applies the friction tension. I found the two mating surfaces to really cruddy with dirt, algae and whatever. I removed the rudder from the the tiller assembly and thoroughly cleaned all mating surfaces then reassembled. I have not had the problem to date. Good sailing. Norm Steffen
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Paul Housman
Rick, I would like to see the diagram on that 2:1 purchase. Could you tell me where it is located exactly? I called Hunter. They recommended I disassemble the rudder casing and inspect the rubber gasket. It is possible they may have to be cleaned or they plain just wore out. he said it's easy to replace( Like I haven't heard that one before) I also asked him about drilling holes in the rudder. he told me there should be no problem with doing that and the integrity of the rudder would not be compromised. So, the dowel trick may also be an easy answer if you can keep it from falling out.
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Tim P
PHOTO
Paul, I found the photo (drawing, actually) by searching the photo arhives for "rudder". You can do this from the "site search" on the homepage. Looks like a useful little project for the winter months.
Paul, I found the photo (drawing, actually) by searching the photo arhives for "rudder". You can do this from the "site search" on the homepage. Looks like a useful little project for the winter months.
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Pat Hooyman
Rudder Experiments
I have tried several things - none of which work too hot so far when I need them which is usaually sailing at speed(5+ Knots) for long periods(2+ Hours) when it is very difficult to slow down and fix things as it creeps up. I tried tying it down. This is specifically advised against in the owner manual but nothing venture nothing gained.. but do not run aground with it tied. We did - hit a hard shell grounding and felt very lucky when the rope broke out of the fiberglass as we scraped along the shell(you cannot come about and stop when the rudder is draging) for 10 seconds or so. I felt lucky because we did not pull the rudder out of the transom before the glass at the knot gave. Do not tie it down unless you are sure of plenty of water. I have also tried dowels as shear pins. I have worked my way up to around a 5/16 inch dowel. They work for a while but tend to get chewed through and fail after a few hours. I am going to a larger dowel later this year( the sailing is just getting good here after it being too hot to sail for several months) once I repair some damage I caused by using a phillips screw driver as a temporary pin after the dowel failed in traffic in the intercoastal. Fortunately this was a soft bottom grounding. Do not use a phillips as a shear pin unless you are sure of plenty of water. I have tightend the bolts and then used the wing nut but it seemed very stiff and I had to use a wrench to loosen them to raise the rudder - something which you have to do often on the Texas coast. This method does seem to have promise as I have not broken anything with it yet. I am interested in finding out more about cleaning and repairing the rubber friction sheet - what do you suggest using for a replacement? Can it be ordered from Hunter?
I have tried several things - none of which work too hot so far when I need them which is usaually sailing at speed(5+ Knots) for long periods(2+ Hours) when it is very difficult to slow down and fix things as it creeps up. I tried tying it down. This is specifically advised against in the owner manual but nothing venture nothing gained.. but do not run aground with it tied. We did - hit a hard shell grounding and felt very lucky when the rope broke out of the fiberglass as we scraped along the shell(you cannot come about and stop when the rudder is draging) for 10 seconds or so. I felt lucky because we did not pull the rudder out of the transom before the glass at the knot gave. Do not tie it down unless you are sure of plenty of water. I have also tried dowels as shear pins. I have worked my way up to around a 5/16 inch dowel. They work for a while but tend to get chewed through and fail after a few hours. I am going to a larger dowel later this year( the sailing is just getting good here after it being too hot to sail for several months) once I repair some damage I caused by using a phillips screw driver as a temporary pin after the dowel failed in traffic in the intercoastal. Fortunately this was a soft bottom grounding. Do not use a phillips as a shear pin unless you are sure of plenty of water. I have tightend the bolts and then used the wing nut but it seemed very stiff and I had to use a wrench to loosen them to raise the rudder - something which you have to do often on the Texas coast. This method does seem to have promise as I have not broken anything with it yet. I am interested in finding out more about cleaning and repairing the rubber friction sheet - what do you suggest using for a replacement? Can it be ordered from Hunter?
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Bob Schmit
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Nancy Berg
Rudder Hold Down Clam Cleat
We mounted the "clam cleat" that allows tension release on the tiller and pull down the rudder with the "rudder pull down line". (tough to pull down, needs more leverage) We cleat the line on the clam cleat. It has adjustable settings. When we hit bottom, it releases. We haven't used it in the ocean yet, so not sure how it will take a patch of seaweed. But we should be able to adjust the tension for that too.
We mounted the "clam cleat" that allows tension release on the tiller and pull down the rudder with the "rudder pull down line". (tough to pull down, needs more leverage) We cleat the line on the clam cleat. It has adjustable settings. When we hit bottom, it releases. We haven't used it in the ocean yet, so not sure how it will take a patch of seaweed. But we should be able to adjust the tension for that too.
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Glen Koops
bungee
I also had problems keeping the rudder down. Cowboying down on the wingnut worked, but eventually the rudder housing became distorted. My boat came with an up/down haul line which could be secured to a standard cleat on the bottom of the tiller. It didn't work very well and I couldn't get the line loose easily to release the rudder in the event of imminent grounding. Since I also wanted an easy way to raise the rudder, I contrived an 2:1 purchase system for the up/down haul line and changed to a cam cleat on the bottom side of the tiller. To guard against really "hard" unexpected groundings, I used a short piece of heavy-duty "bungee" line for part of the down haul. It works great. The rudder can be released instantly and I am able to pull it completely out of the water from the cockpit. No more standing in the water on the stern ladder to tighten or loosen the wing nut.
I also had problems keeping the rudder down. Cowboying down on the wingnut worked, but eventually the rudder housing became distorted. My boat came with an up/down haul line which could be secured to a standard cleat on the bottom of the tiller. It didn't work very well and I couldn't get the line loose easily to release the rudder in the event of imminent grounding. Since I also wanted an easy way to raise the rudder, I contrived an 2:1 purchase system for the up/down haul line and changed to a cam cleat on the bottom side of the tiller. To guard against really "hard" unexpected groundings, I used a short piece of heavy-duty "bungee" line for part of the down haul. It works great. The rudder can be released instantly and I am able to pull it completely out of the water from the cockpit. No more standing in the water on the stern ladder to tighten or loosen the wing nut.
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Steven Bott
Rudder Block Photo/drawing
I printed the Rudder Block Installation drawing from Hunter on the Photo forum that Tim refers to. It WORKS GREAT. Only cost me a few bucks for a Block and installed in about an hour. Rudder stays down now. Steve Bott Serendipity
I printed the Rudder Block Installation drawing from Hunter on the Photo forum that Tim refers to. It WORKS GREAT. Only cost me a few bucks for a Block and installed in about an hour. Rudder stays down now. Steve Bott Serendipity
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