We had couple of windy days here in NY. My Pearson 26 was moored during this time and was subjected to some wave action. When I came back I found some damage to the rudder post. The tiller was tied in the center position and the tiller head pushed the top of the rudder post. Now the internal diameter of the rudder post is 5-7mm wider, then the diameter of the tiller head. In addition some parts of the aluminum shaft were broken away and the net result is huge tiller play. What are my options to repair it? I can buy new rudder. Or I can fill the rudder shaft with epoxy. Or I can bring my rudder to some machine shop and rebuild the rudder post. Anybody had similar problem? Anybody can recommend a repair shop in New York area? Thanks <img src="http://projectezp.com/stuff/rudder-post1.JPG"> <img src="http://projectezp.com/stuff/rudder-post2.JPG">
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P 26 rudder post
You can buy a new original equipment rudder with a stainless steel rudder post from D&R Marine Assonet MA last I heard about $1400 Bob Fox 1975 p26w #76 Whitecap Marblehead MA
You can buy a new original equipment rudder with a stainless steel rudder post from D&R Marine Assonet MA last I heard about $1400 Bob Fox 1975 p26w #76 Whitecap Marblehead MA
please don't get me wrong.
I can weld the tiller head to the aluminum cilinder D30mm and 40cm long. And Then glue whole cilinder inside of the rudder post. It will be much stronger, then the hollow pipe we have rigt now.
I can weld the tiller head to the aluminum cilinder D30mm and 40cm long. And Then glue whole cilinder inside of the rudder post. It will be much stronger, then the hollow pipe we have rigt now.
P26 RUDDER POST
THE REPLACEMENTS ARE SOOOOO HIGH $$$ I AGREE WITH YOU YOU CAN HAVE AN INSERT (ALUM) BAR PLACED INSIDE THE SHAFT THEN WELD IT ALL BACK TOGETHER AND THE GRIND THE WELD SMOOTH, THEN BUFF IT ALL AND IT WOULD PROBALLY BE AS GOOD AS NEW OR BETTER. DONT TRY THE EPOXY AS IT WILL BURN UP IN THE WELDING. WHILE YOUR AT IT FIND OR HAVE A NEW SPACER/ COLLAR MADE. IM SURE YOU KNOW THAT YOU HAVE A PROBLEM WITH YOUR SOLE ROTTING OUT AS EVEDENCED YOU THE CRAZING IN THE FIBERGLASS. IT WILL ONLY GET WORSE IF IT WERE MINE ID AT LEAST DRILL AND FILL THE VOIDS AND GET RID UF THAT SOLE/ RUDDER POST JOINT PEARSON CURSED US WITH
THE REPLACEMENTS ARE SOOOOO HIGH $$$ I AGREE WITH YOU YOU CAN HAVE AN INSERT (ALUM) BAR PLACED INSIDE THE SHAFT THEN WELD IT ALL BACK TOGETHER AND THE GRIND THE WELD SMOOTH, THEN BUFF IT ALL AND IT WOULD PROBALLY BE AS GOOD AS NEW OR BETTER. DONT TRY THE EPOXY AS IT WILL BURN UP IN THE WELDING. WHILE YOUR AT IT FIND OR HAVE A NEW SPACER/ COLLAR MADE. IM SURE YOU KNOW THAT YOU HAVE A PROBLEM WITH YOUR SOLE ROTTING OUT AS EVEDENCED YOU THE CRAZING IN THE FIBERGLASS. IT WILL ONLY GET WORSE IF IT WERE MINE ID AT LEAST DRILL AND FILL THE VOIDS AND GET RID UF THAT SOLE/ RUDDER POST JOINT PEARSON CURSED US WITH
consider other damage
might there have been damage also to the interior armature attached to the post if the rudder was being subjected to those pressures? Check for play. Then D&R Marine. The P-34's are supposedly known for that problem. You really don't want to lose steerage at the wrong time.
might there have been damage also to the interior armature attached to the post if the rudder was being subjected to those pressures? Check for play. Then D&R Marine. The P-34's are supposedly known for that problem. You really don't want to lose steerage at the wrong time.
repairs
find a section of tube that will fit inside it, along with a short section the same doameter as the rest, drill a few holes through the outside shaft and camber the edges of the outer tubes, weld around the main tube, then at each of the holes you drilled, locks the whole thing together nice and solid. If it's in an area where flex may be a problem, bring the inner shaft section to a shop and see if they can turn a gradual taper for about 3" from the end to eliminate a hard spot that could cause the outer tube to fracture where the inner tube stops. The epoxy idea has merrit, inherited an older trolling motor a while ago that had been caught between two boats and snapped the fiberglass shaft about halfway up, the only thing holding it together were the wires, located an aluminum tube that was slightly oversized, turned it down for a good slip fit tapered the end as above, then mixed up some epoxy and poured it in through the top between the tubes, been using it for 4 years now and it's still going strong. Know it's not a rudder shaft but shows it's strong. ken
find a section of tube that will fit inside it, along with a short section the same doameter as the rest, drill a few holes through the outside shaft and camber the edges of the outer tubes, weld around the main tube, then at each of the holes you drilled, locks the whole thing together nice and solid. If it's in an area where flex may be a problem, bring the inner shaft section to a shop and see if they can turn a gradual taper for about 3" from the end to eliminate a hard spot that could cause the outer tube to fracture where the inner tube stops. The epoxy idea has merrit, inherited an older trolling motor a while ago that had been caught between two boats and snapped the fiberglass shaft about halfway up, the only thing holding it together were the wires, located an aluminum tube that was slightly oversized, turned it down for a good slip fit tapered the end as above, then mixed up some epoxy and poured it in through the top between the tubes, been using it for 4 years now and it's still going strong. Know it's not a rudder shaft but shows it's strong. ken
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