Rudder parts question..

[Fairwind]

Lancer 28 has a shaft-mounted blade rudder. The rudder post (shaft) comes up through a fiberglass tube (part of the hull) and the tiller clamps onto the top of the shaft to secure the rudder in the boat. To achieve a close fit, a plastic bushing is used between the tube and the shaft. This bushing has a flange on top on which the tiller mount rests. The flange also prevents the bushing from dropping out the bottom.

Can anyone recommend a source for a new bushing? I'm beginning to get the feeling my only option is to have a new one machined out of brass, a fairly expensive proposition..

 

[dserrell]

1

 

[kendall]

possibly have one turned from UHMW A very tough, low friction plastic commonly used as bushing material.

Check some of the home machinist boards for someone near you who may be able to turn one up. many would be happy to do it for much less than a "real" machine shop. (homeshopmachinist.net is one) Recently sold both lathes and one of my mills, otherwise I'd say send me the dimensions and the material.

Ken.

 

[Joseph Shirley]

I take it that the bushing is worn and you are talking about making a new one integral with the flange. If so, that would be expensive, and I wouldn't do it. In some classes the bushings are poured in place. The shaft is well greased and inserted in the tube, the space between the tube and the shaft at the lower exit is taped to prevent leakage, and an epoxy slurry is poured between the shaft and the tube. When it hardens you have a low clearance bushing and a reinforced tube. It can be done with less slurry if you just pour a bearing in the bottom, then insert a tight plastic plug just down from the top and cast another bearing at the top. Just remember to keep the shaft well greased so the slurry won't stick to it,--- Then you can just stick on the flange back on top to prevent the rudder from dropping.

If you are worried about in the lower joint between the tube and the hull from failing as dserrell had mentioned all you have to do is make a doubler for it. make it out of a block of wood, or fiberglass, or wood and fiberglass, with a hole through it the same as the OD of your tube, cut it through the hole so that you have two half circles and mount it around the base of the tube and against the hull. You can glass it in or fix it in place with 5200 and fasteners. It will support the lower end of the joint so it will never leak.

Have fun

Joe S

 

[Fairwind]

Kendall, Joseph, gentlemen, thanks for the replies! Those were excellent suggestions! The boat is now in a remote location, 60 miles from any commercial help, so the DIY solutions are most welcome! While Lancer is not known for for its superb quality, my rudder and its mounting tube have survived two groundings without any damage other than the bushing..Pouring a new bearing in place is a solution I completely overlooked..

 

[Fairwind]

I'm intrigued by the poured-in bearing! Sounds like the perfect solution! As for the top flange the rudder head rests on (and is supporting the weight of the rudder), that could be any properly sized plastic washer.

Is there any reason polyester resin could not be used for this? The tube is 18-20" long, plenty of support for the 1.75-2.0" steel rudder post..

 

[Chris Burti]

This repair method works fine if the rudder post is still round. However, as most rudders are only turned side to side and rarely rotated, they actually tend to wear into an ellipse (oval cross section). When this bushing method is attempted in such cases, the rudder post becomes locked and virtually immovable.

I know of someone who tried this on a Cal 40 and ended up having to remove the rudder tube which led to a new rudder post, which led, in turn, to a new modern design rudder. Which, upon reflection, may have been easier to explain to the Admiral than how a new efficient rudder would help win races.

 

[Jalepeno]

I don’t think the poured bearing concept would work other than at the factory. If your rudderpost similar to my CAL, then it has been lubricated with grease for many years and there is no way that anything would stick to the tube walls. If it is dry inside, then there is the possibility that the epoxy may stick to both the tube and the shaft. Big problems. You would have to remove the rudder, clean the inside of the tube and grease the shaft. Not practical. Try to find out if there is a UHMW or similar bushing inside. Also remember that you will need a lot of clearance between the UHMW and shaft as UHMW absorbs water and will swell, possibly jam the rudder shaft a few weeks after launching.

 

[Fairwind]

I have some actual mold release agent to coat the shaft with and cleaning out the tube is no big deal..Never any grease in there, just salt water..

 

[Sam Salter]

Poured Bearing

I sail a C&C so I'm a member of this forum:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/
Over the last few years, a few C&C owners on the forum have done this poured bearing repair with successful results.
Ask the question on this forum and you'll get some useful advice:
cnc-list@cnc-list.com (You may have to sign up first at the above site!)
I know you haven't got a C&C but they are a good bunch and I'm sure they won't hold it against you!
sam

 

[SamLust]

If I were doing this repair I would use epoxy filled with West System Graphite filler. It will provide the wear and lubrication qualities you want. When I had my Lancer 28 I made up a washer to go under the rudder headout of 3/16' HDPE. It stopped the squeak.

 

[Fairwind]

I'm going to drop the rudder out of her today and see exactly what I have and what I'm dealing with and evaluate all the options..

Does anybody know exactly how the steel post is secured in the rudder itself? On the side of my rudder I have noticed a rust spot that, with the boat on its trailer, slowly drools down the rudder..Using a small body grinder, I opened up the tiny "seep-hole" right down to the steel post, a 3" diameter area..The post and fiberglass look fine, it's dry and clean now, so I'm just going to patch up the repair area and call it done. The post is tight in the rudder, no movement or visible cracks anywhere..

 

[Fairwind]

The rudder dropped right out..it has a 1.5/8" stainless tube riding in what looks like a full length PVC pipe bearing..If I can get the PVC pipe to slide out of the fiberglass tube, I can just replace it..No telling how securely the factory glued it in, or with what..