Rudder Issues

Sep 29, 2014
3
Hunter 426 Michigan City
First let me start by saying I am not trying to condemn, point fingers or stir the stink pot with this post. I am very happy with my Hunter 426, we spent a good deal of time and effort comparing manufactures and models before purchasing our Hunter, what I do have is a problem that I am looking for advice/feedback/comments.

Some history,
Last spring while putting a fresh coat of VC-17 on the bottom we noticed the rudder was weeping water around the rudder stock to rudder connection, I had dismissed it as it had rained a couple of days earlier so we launched and sailed from Saint Joe to Michigan City never giving it a second thought, then in July while crewing on another sailboat for the
Chicago to Mackinaw race the weeping rudder came up in conversation, the skipper and first mate concluded the rudder maybe full of water and advised I go easy on my hunter for the rest of the season or risk possibly loosing the rudder. The thought of having to steer the boat with buckets or a drogue didn’t seem like a fun time (although every crew should practice the technique).

Preparing for the winter haul out I made arrangements with the staff at Anchors Way marina to help with the removal of the rudder. With the boat hanging in the travel lift I gave the rudder some sounding knocks with my knuckles as did Adam the yard foreman, Yep it’s full of water. The team at the marina knowing that with this size of rudder full of water it would be
heavy so they used a fork lift to lower the rudder out of the boat, it took 2 men to keep it stable until it could be laid on its side, once on its side the water started trickling out, Adam estimated its weight at about 300+ lbs.

We loaded it in my truck as this would be my winter project.
After getting the rudder home, I laid it on its side and proceeded to investigate the rudder stock connection. What I thought was fairing compound between the rudder and rudder stock was more like caulking (soft and pliable), with a screw driver and putty knife I was able to
remove most of it and the water started running out. I left it like that for several days with towels soaking up the water, I bet about 2 to 3 gallons came out. Then I installed an eye bolt in the ceiling so I could stand the rudder up right and get a better look at it and get the rest of the caulking removed, once cleaned up there it was the root of my trouble,
VOIDS in the adhesive between the rudder stock and the rudder housing (See attached Pics), I laid the rudder back on its side and more water came out. Ok now I know what the trouble is so let’s formulate a plan of action, first I’ll drill some ¼” holes in the top and bottom of
the rudder, then stand it back up put some mild heat of about 100 to 150 deg and drive off the remaining moisture then mix up some west systems epoxy fill in the voids and holes and be ready to go right…….WRONG..!!!!!

Here I am 2 months later and I still have water coming out, I took a small air compressor and blew low pressure air (about 10 to 15 psi) in the holes I had drilled and water came streaming out of the rudder stock connection and the other holes that I had drilled (See Pics). OK I’ve got to get the water of this thing before I make any repairs, so I turn to the
internet of things and start reading the forums for information on drying out a rudder.

Then horror set in when I read the posts about “Hunter Rudder Failures”, this made me think back to July of 2012, the wife and I were sailing back to Michigan City when we were caught in near gail force winds and sea’s 10 to 15 ft, I know you blue water guys are saying 10 to 15 foot no big deal, but the difference between blue water and Lake Michigan is that the
waves are not big slow rollers but rather steep sides and the interval between them is short, that night ours were about 10 seconds or so apart. Any how it was 8 hours zig zagging back and forth motor sailing, at times the wave crests would push the bow around and we would roll spreader to spreader, you see where I’m going here, with the rudder full of water 300+lbs swinging back and forth under the boat I can’t help but wonder if the composite rudder stock is stress cracked inside the rudder and no way to determine its condition. Any how we made it into Michigan City our Hunter 426 with standing her trip nicely, we however were worn out and
beat.

Back to the rudder stock, after reading some of the forum posts about the rudder failures and they seemed to fail a few inches below the top of rudder it got me thinking so I grabbed my tape measure and went to the garage, the rudder and stock combined are about 96” (see Pics)
and the failure point as indicated in some of the posts was about 2” below the top of the rudder, about 45” down from the tip of the stock. Now I’m not a Marine Architect but I have worked in heavy industry engineering for 35 years and have witnessed many fatigue failures over the years, so based on the size of the rudder and stock I’m guessing a water logged
rudder could be a recipe for disaster.

After 3 months of trying to dry out the rudder it seems to me my best bet would be to contact Foss Foam and ship my rudder to them for repair or replacement.

I’m leaning on replacement; your comments/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Tom
 

Attachments

Jan 4, 2006
7,233
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
IMO, given the problems you've experienced with the current rudder to date, I wouldn't bother wasting any further time and contact Foss Foam for a rebuild or replacement.

I've never begrudged any money I've spent on the boat and quickly forgotten the cost when everything works out as expected. HOWEVER, I've certainly kicked myself for a long long time for cutting corners in order to save a few bucks/time when the result wasn't as good as I had hoped for.
 
Sep 29, 2014
3
Hunter 426 Michigan City
Don, there is no internal webbing to rust, the entire rudder is made from composite materials, The problem is that during manufacturing there were voids left between the rudder stock to rudder there by allowing water to get inside of the rudder. My concern now is weather the rudder stock has any hidden stress cracks.

Tom
 
Dec 19, 2006
5,831
Hunter 36 Punta Gorda
Moss

I would contact Moss and tell your story and even send photo's
and see what they think.
I am sure you will sleep better and after consulting a expert
you will feel a lot better when sailing.
I am pretty sure moss makes all of Hunters Rudders.
Nick
 

ALNims

.
Jul 31, 2014
208
Hunter 356 Huis Ten Bosch Marina, Sasebo, Japan
Your safest bet is to replace the rudder with a new one. I would also check the rudder post to rudder clearance to make sure it is good also. If the rudder to rudder post clearance is bad you can have water accumulate and eventually seep into the rudder.
 
Sep 25, 2008
7,397
Alden 50 Sarasota, Florida
Don, there is no internal webbing to rust, the entire rudder is made from composite materials, The problem is that during manufacturing there were voids left between the rudder stock to rudder there by allowing water to get inside of the rudder. My concern now is weather the rudder stock has any hidden stress cracks.

Tom
Therein lies the rub...

Take a closer look at the 'fingers' coming off the shaft. They are SS and serve as a substrate for the so-called composite which is the problem. If you don't believe me, call Foss Foam in California.
 
Sep 29, 2014
3
Hunter 426 Michigan City
Thanks Don,
I was not aware there was any SS in the construction, I shall continue investigating..

Tom
 
Dec 19, 2006
5,831
Hunter 36 Punta Gorda
Maybe

I remember seeing here on this forum photo's of rudders frame work
and pretty sure it was some type of aluminum or stainless but have
also been told older rudder shafts made of composit and losing a rudder from breaking apart,photo's of rudders here in this forum show the shaft not stainless.
My rudder shaft is solid stainless on my 07 H-36.
nick
 
Jan 12, 2011
930
Hunter 410 full time cruiser
Most of the Hunter rudder stocks breaking were of a certain model that used a carbon fiber stock. For some reason that just didn't work out.

Personally I don't feel water getting into the rudder is all that big a deal. This has been happening to boats from the start. Just walk any marina in the Northeast in Nov and check the number with water dripping from the rudder. To think any fiberglassed skin rudder isn't going to get water into it is just foolness in my opinion.
 

Rick D

.
Jun 14, 2008
7,184
Hunter Legend 40.5 Shoreline Marina Long Beach CA
Rudder Frame

See pages 46 & 47 of the 40.5 manual which describes and illustrates a composite rudder stock and framework. To the best of my knowledge, the 40.5's were all built conventionally with stainless framing and stock. I believe the 410 was the first with composite. If yours is composite, it is probably like this illustrates. Regardless, you should contact Hunter and get verification and suggestions. Further recollection is that Hunter made it's own composite rudders; Foss made the conventional ones.

What I was told by a Hunter rep is that they concluded a problem with the composite construction was that when the stock was stressed beyond design parameters, it would crack instead of bending, and thus would "hide" the flaw which might fail later without warning. Groundings and impacts were the most common. You can true that up when you contact Hunter if you're interested. I recall some race boats tried a similar construction and had some failures too.

If it is a purely composite construction, and if you prefer some piece of mind, how about having the yard split the rudder blade, inspect and rebuild it? If it is composite, there should be no problem with the frame. If it does have a metallic frame, the inspection will reveal if it needs attention or not. Or, of course, you could just have Foss make a conventional replacement. Good luck and let us know what you find or decide. Here's the 40.5 manual:
http://sbo.sailboatowners.com/downloads/Hunter_40.5_72237343.pdf