1982 hunter 27,shoal keel. When I 1st pulled the boat in 11-04,there was a small hole towards right bottom of the rudder. Water was seeping out. THE RUDDER HAD numerous small surface crack lines when I ground the paint off. I have pulled the boat each winter & re-opened the hole, with some water seeping out. I close it with marine tex before launch in spring. Can anyone give me background on the construction of the rudder.Initial survey showed some moisture in one area. I presume water is getting in at the top of the rudder post & am considering opening that up and re-fiberglassing /sealing it. The rudder seems sound & works fine. Is wheel steering. Thanks
rudder issues
- Thread starter cliff
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My first thought is to try sanding down to the fiberglass on top and then try sealing the post rudder joint with epoxy for a year and see if that fixes it but if the post has some movement around the rudder top, then that epoxy mostlikely will not hold it in place so it will crack and leak again.
My second thought was to seal it with something flexible like a strong caulk but then I think that's just a bandaid and the wobble may get worse and lead to a bigger problem.
But then, does glass stick to the post? I know I would be tempted to just order a new rudder in fear anything I do would come apart at the wrong moment at sea but you may never be at sea so that might not be a worry and you can play with different things to see what works.
My second thought was to seal it with something flexible like a strong caulk but then I think that's just a bandaid and the wobble may get worse and lead to a bigger problem.
But then, does glass stick to the post? I know I would be tempted to just order a new rudder in fear anything I do would come apart at the wrong moment at sea but you may never be at sea so that might not be a worry and you can play with different things to see what works.
Cliff
Often the color of the water which leaks out can give you an indication of how to repair a rudder. If it was not brown, most people consider that a good sign as the weld joints on the rudder-to-shaft frame didn't rust sufficient to turn the water rusty. If you are sure the leak source is the shaft joint, simply seal it and make sure the interior of the rudder is thoroughly drained and is completely dry.
If the water is/was brown, you can do one of two things - hope the welds hold so you don't someday lose steering or pull the two halves of the rudder apart and repair the damage.
Often the color of the water which leaks out can give you an indication of how to repair a rudder. If it was not brown, most people consider that a good sign as the weld joints on the rudder-to-shaft frame didn't rust sufficient to turn the water rusty. If you are sure the leak source is the shaft joint, simply seal it and make sure the interior of the rudder is thoroughly drained and is completely dry.
If the water is/was brown, you can do one of two things - hope the welds hold so you don't someday lose steering or pull the two halves of the rudder apart and repair the damage.
Foss Foam Rudders
There have been many discussions over the years regarding the voids in and the delamination of Foss Foam rudders. Note the word "foam", the actual contents of the rudder. Here is one thread for example:
http://forums.hunter.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=159308 .
In that thread there is a reference to a link that is lost, to Gene Gruender's site. It is more about removing the rudder in the water but makes the point that the rudder is plastic and foam, not fiberglass. Here is that site: http://www.geocities.com/rainbow_chaser.geo/rudder.html
I recently had mine rebuilt. We discussed the difference in foams used to fill the cavity and how the older foams were not closed-cell and often had large voids. These fill with water, mostly from the top at the entry point of the rudder stock. But they also leak. They really should have an epoxy barrier-coat.
My rudder was cut open to insure a sound stainless post and welded plate. There was no sign of corrosion. Then a new shell of fiberglass with new closed-cell foam and no voids. Of course the old rudder lasted almost thirty years, not too bad I suppose. It was still working but I had bent it.
There have been many discussions over the years regarding the voids in and the delamination of Foss Foam rudders. Note the word "foam", the actual contents of the rudder. Here is one thread for example:
http://forums.hunter.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=159308 .
In that thread there is a reference to a link that is lost, to Gene Gruender's site. It is more about removing the rudder in the water but makes the point that the rudder is plastic and foam, not fiberglass. Here is that site: http://www.geocities.com/rainbow_chaser.geo/rudder.html
I recently had mine rebuilt. We discussed the difference in foams used to fill the cavity and how the older foams were not closed-cell and often had large voids. These fill with water, mostly from the top at the entry point of the rudder stock. But they also leak. They really should have an epoxy barrier-coat.
My rudder was cut open to insure a sound stainless post and welded plate. There was no sign of corrosion. Then a new shell of fiberglass with new closed-cell foam and no voids. Of course the old rudder lasted almost thirty years, not too bad I suppose. It was still working but I had bent it.
Very helpful response.The color has been mostly whitish. Am going to grind down top of rudder & reseal,etc. Then check again when I pull in fall of '09.
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