Rudder end play

[Joe McKenna]

I have a 86 H28.5 and over the years the rudder is getting more and more end play.It's about 11/2 to 2 inches at the bottomof the rudder. Is this normal movementin an 86? Is there a fix for this like a sleveto go over the rudder post? Is this dangerous?

 

[Kenny Logsdon]

Sounds Excessive

On my 1987 28.5 the rudder's wieght is supported by a nylon type plastic bearing that is about 2 inches thick and is through bolted through the rudder stock. This bearing rests agains the lower part of the upper bearing which is the same type of plastic and is mounted to the top of the rudder tube by 2 stainless screws. On my hunter one of these screws broke and this peice was free to slop around as I turned the wheel causing the entire upper end of the rudder to move side to side. I am assuming this is also what you mean by "end-play" (usually end play refers to a longitudinal movement). To check this you will have to remove the steering quadrant (accessible from the small cockpit locker on the starboard side and the access panel from inside the aft cabin) and you will then see the upper bearing assembly. You should be able to remove both bearings while the boat is in the water. The rudder has slight positive bouyancy and should not fall out. When I put mine back together, I used three screws (instead of the original two) set them at 120 degrees of one another. You will have to counterbore a 1/4 to 1/2 inch to allow the top part of the bearing to ride soomthy on top. I put a little grease between the halves when I reinstalled them. If by some chance I have misunderstood your problem, I sure hope your boat is still floating. If what is going on with your boat is something other than what I have described, It sounds like it is serious. Good luck.Kenny Logsdon"St. Somewhere" H28.5

 

[Tom Lukas]

Rudder Plat

Joe, I have an 87' 28.5 and asked that question to a hunter rep a fews back. My play is about 1/4 to 3/8" inch at the rudder bottom. Hunter said about 1/4" was fine. You may want to take a look at the collar that sits just below the edson quadrant ( this is the large half moon shaped structure that the steering cables attach to). Best access is through the inspection plate in the ceiling of the rear berth, or getting to it through the starboard lazarette (for med. to small size people only). I believe there are two long screws or bolts that hold the collar to the rudder tube, the rudder is inside the collar and if the collar is loose or one of the screws came out, you'll have a lot of play. If the collar is intact, then you may have the play at the lower end of the rudder tube where it exits the hull. You'll have to check with hunter to see if replacement parts are available or I'm sure any good boatyard could reglass it. One option that might(?) work with minimal cost is purchasing a shim material to take up the slack if the tube is worn. The shim material is a high density poly, you can get it in 3/4 and 3" with adhesive backing from a few woodworking places. Let me know if you need add'l info. Good LuckTom in Maine

 

[Claude L.-Auger]

Fix it on a cloudy breezy day

Joe, I used to own a 86 28.5 also and had to re-glass the collar to reinforce it as it had cracked in the upper part and was allowing the rudder post itself to move back and forth every time the wheel was turned. The lower nylon bushing was also worn unevenly where it contacted the upper bushing because of it. I removed it, shaved it even again, then turned it upside down and shimmed it enough to be able to align the bolt holes. It did the job. The toughest part was doing the fibreglass. Working inside that lazarette is far from comfortable and the fumes from the catalyst resin mixture can be dangerous.Make sure you open everything you can and remove the starboard garbage can as well to get plenty of air and some more light. Good luck

 

[Kenny Logsdon]

One thig to add

Wow, it seems this is a common problem with the 28.5. None the less, I have one thing to add. If you do get into glassing, I recommend epoxie over polyester resins. Epoxie is a bit more expensive but for small jobs it won't break you. There are virtually no fumes and twice the stength. Most folks seem to use the old standard West System but I have had excellent luck with Fiberglass Coatings Inc (www.fgci.com).Kenny Logsdons/v "St. Somewhere"