Rudder damage in Huricane Sandy

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Feb 9, 2007
35
Freedom 21 Forked River, NJ
I have a Freedom 21 that was grounded during Hurricane Sandy. The outboard rudder was bent and the top of the rudder cracked down the middle between the two sides. (see photos) I have been able to straighten the rudder but now must repair the crack and strengthen the rudder. Do I have to do a full fiberglass cloth repair or can I just pour resin into the crack and run a few bolts through the rudder to pull the two sides together. I was thinking about maybe an aluminum plate on each side?
 

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CalebD

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Jun 27, 2006
1,479
Tartan 27' 1967 Nyack, NY
I was going to say you could probably get away with filling the crack with thickened epoxy and clamping it until I saw the 3rd picture showing the crack running from the pintle to the tiller bolt.
That crack makes the top of the rudder seriously compromised as a lot of stress occurs here where the tiller attaches to the rudder.

At a minimum I think you need to grind out that crack and build it back up again with epoxy & cloth. Grind away the crack 10:1, surface area:depth of crack. If you have to do that, then maybe you should just bite the bullet and see if you can separate the two halves of the rudder so you can inspect the inner laminate for damage. Re-joining the two halves should be fairly straight forward with thickened epoxy and clamps to hold the halves tightly together.
Good luck.
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
You must take the rudder off the boat and remove all of the hardware and THEN access the damage.
 
May 11, 2005
3,431
Seidelman S37 Slidell, La.
What Ross said

Take it off and then inspect. You can't really tell with it on the boat. But with that big of a crack in a stress area, I would get someone knowledgable in fiberglass, if your not.
 

Mulf

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Dec 2, 2003
400
Hunter 410 Chester, MD (Kent Island)
Where is Roger when we need him?

I'm not a naval architect but I don't think so! The side forces on the rudder when you are under full sail close hauled have got to be huge. If that white line in picture 3 is a crack, I can't imagine any method of gluing or epoxy or whatever is going to be strong enough to hold it together. IMHO you will need to either figure out how to get reinforcing material inside going from the top to well below that bolt, or more likely, look for a replacement. Sorry!
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
Re: Where is Roger when we need him?

My opinion! The strength of the rudder structure is in the surface. Many rudders have foam cores. Therefore grind away the surface damage 10 to 12 times as wide as the depth of the skin and make the repairs. Do it one surface at a time and don't skimp on time or material.
 

CalebD

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Jun 27, 2006
1,479
Tartan 27' 1967 Nyack, NY
As it happens you can buy a replacement rudder for a Freedom 21': http://www.ruddercraft.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=90&osCsid=2ddc0ee0464f783896b3cf4d7dfdf0f8

It will cost you $800 though.

Ross is, of course, correct that foam cores are often used in fabrications such as a rudder like this.

I can't imagine it costing more than $200 in tools & materials to repair your rudder though. Probably cost a lot less if you already have some tools, epoxy & cloth on hand.

If I were doing the repair I might use the dremel multi-tool I recently bought to saw through the edges that are not already cracked (assumes you have removed the C/B to a shop). Separate the skins and assess the damage. Repair the skin with the crack at top, then re-glue w/epoxy and some cloth strips covering the cut, sand, paint, go sailing.
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
Caleb has it right except for the choice of tools. You really need a 4&1/2 inch right angle grinder with sanding disks. Using a dremel is sending a boy to do a man's job. There will be quite a bit of material to remove in order to make a proper repair.
 
Jun 25, 2012
942
hunter 356 Kemah,the Republic of Texas
Caleb has it right except for the choice of tools. You really need a 4&1/2 inch right angle grinder with sanding disks. Using a dremel is sending a boy to do a man's job. There will be quite a bit of material to remove in order to make a proper repair.
I disagree on both counts... This job requires a multi-tool !:D
 
Nov 23, 2011
2,023
MacGregor 26D London Ontario Canada
I don't know why Duct Tape hasn't been mentioned yet.
DON'T use Duct Tape.
I would do what Caleb and Ross suggest but also wrap more fiberglass around the outside of the top.
Good luck.
 

CalebD

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Jun 27, 2006
1,479
Tartan 27' 1967 Nyack, NY
Actually Ross, I was enjoying my new multi-tool while working on my boat and someone joked: "What are you doing with that Barber shop tool?"
A 4-1/2" angle grinder will do the job quicker, without a doubt. I just am looking for ways to use my new tool!
Another fellow commented that the multi-tool saw blade works a lot like a bone surgeons saw. It is based on a bone saw!
 
Oct 2, 2006
1,517
Jboat J24 commack
The rudder has a plywood core warped in glass as in common in small TPI built boats like Freedom and Jboats
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
I have the luxury of being able to choose the right tool for the job since I am in the home repair business. There are very few hand held power tools that i don't have so when I recommend a tool it is the one I would also use for the job.
It the rudder has a plywood core a simple test hole drilled through will tell if it is wet or dry and confirm that it is plywood. It the core is plywood and does not flex when push side ways then the core is probably not broken and ony the shell needs to be repaired.
 
Feb 9, 2007
35
Freedom 21 Forked River, NJ
I have it off the boat. The core is plywood and is dry. The rudder was actually bent 3-5 inches to port. After removing the rudder from the boat I was able to straighten the rudder so I know the plywood has become separated. It was very hard to do the straightening so I feel some holes drilled in the shell and resin injected into the core followed by clamping will work for the first step. I then was going to either put some through rudder bolts for support with big washers or mount two aluminum plates on either side at the top.
I will then glass the front and back edges for support. The crack at the top will have to be addressed as suggested and a new tiller bracket made or the original widened to fit over the aluminum plates.

I will also be getting a Glass expert to give me a quote on a proper repair.

Any other suggestions?
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
The plywood core may have simply been bent without a fracture depending on the thickness of the plywood. You will do well if you can maintain the original thickness by grinding away the damaged material and replacing it with new fiberglass and resin. Adding plates will not be a good repair if the underlying damage is not repaired. The original rudder was strong enough to serve until it was broken during a grounding in a storm. Just repair it to its original condition and you will be good for another 20 years. Be certain that you seal out the water from the core.
 
Apr 22, 2009
342
Pearson P-31 Quantico
My opinion! The strength of the rudder structure is in the surface. Many rudders have foam cores. Therefore grind away the surface damage 10 to 12 times as wide as the depth of the skin and make the repairs. Do it one surface at a time and don't skimp on time or material.

Ross, I agree. Most rudders are essentially box beams. Grind away, build a jig to keep the form correct, reglass with many many layers.
 
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