Last November I moved my boat from Maryland to a friend's dock on the Delaware River in Essington, PA. The plan was to make it easier to get to so I could work on some winter projects (the weather has pretty much taken care of that idea). In docking the boat, I got sideways to the current, and banged her up pretty good on some pilings; most of the damage seemed to be cosmetic. Unfortunately, it now takes a lot more effort to turn the wheel, and I'm wondering if I might have somehow bent the rudder post. Has anyone had a similar problem with their rudder and, if so, what was it? I'm trying hard not to think about replacing the entire rudder assembly ($$$).
Rudder binding up
- Thread starter Max15631
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I would start with the simple stuff first. If you haven’t done so already, check the steering cables and make sure a cable didn't jump off a pulley. My 28 has 2 grease fittings on the rudder tube, after I greased them last year it was like I had power steering. Hopefully it’s a simple fix and not a bent rudder shaft.
I've never had binding issues, and I agree with Tom, start with the easy stuff first. I have dropped the rudder out of the boat. It's not too difficult assuming you're boat gets hauled out regularly like mine AND you can dig a hole under the rudder to drop it into to get clearance for the rudder post. With it out, you should be able to see if it's bent or not or take it to a machine shop to have it checked.
Rudder binding
Thanks for the advice guys. I'm going to try hitting the grease fittings and the cables, which I haven't done to date, and frankly doubt that the P.O. did. I checked on the Edson website and they recommend "Super Lube" for the cables; I imagine that a good Marine grease would work well for the grease fitting(s). Anyone have any recommendations with respect to specific brand or type of grease? I have a good cartridge grease gun and I'm still thin enough (so far) to wriggle down the sea berth to the quadrant.
There's plenty of room in the port locker to make it back to the quadrant for inspection. Probably a good time to clean the locker out anyway. The grease fittings on Karma are accessible from that side. There are adjusters on the quadrant that are used to tighten the cables, they can be loosened (measure or mark the threads if you're nervous) a bit to get the cables to jump off the turning sheaves under the pedestal. This will allow you to move the wheel and rudder assemblies independently to see where the binding is coming from.
The rudder/quadrant assembly sits on a delrin bearing, inspect that to insure that the bearing is still there and the quadrant is not sitting on the rudder tube. I've pictures from when I removed Karma's rudder at: http://sports.webshots.com/album/571544448PTkmdw
Keep us posted.
The rudder/quadrant assembly sits on a delrin bearing, inspect that to insure that the bearing is still there and the quadrant is not sitting on the rudder tube. I've pictures from when I removed Karma's rudder at: http://sports.webshots.com/album/571544448PTkmdw
Keep us posted.
Scott,
Thanks for the information. Hopefully, I won't need to be digging that hole! I'll go down this weekend with a grease gun and see what I can do about lubricating the rudder stock, and take a look at the cables and quadrant as well. Maintenance of the steering system got overlooked, I'm afraid.
Max
Thanks for the information. Hopefully, I won't need to be digging that hole! I'll go down this weekend with a grease gun and see what I can do about lubricating the rudder stock, and take a look at the cables and quadrant as well. Maintenance of the steering system got overlooked, I'm afraid.
Max
I never had an issue with binding but I did end up replacing my rudder due to suspected rusting out of the post to flag connection. The old one may have lasted much longer but better safe than sorry. Removal was pretty easy and the cable system was very easy to understand and access. New rudder cost about $2300.00 with shipping from Foss Foam in Florida.
Yes, digging the hole was no fun. Couldn't get a good swing at the hole with a grubbing hoe for fear of hitting the rudder
Raj, I looked into a new rudder but after my inspection was confident that rusting was not an issue, there was only a bit of surface rust on what tubing I exposed and none in the water that drained out of the tubes. I'm pretty confident in the soundness of the repair, but do keep an eye on it none-the-less.
Raj, I looked into a new rudder but after my inspection was confident that rusting was not an issue, there was only a bit of surface rust on what tubing I exposed and none in the water that drained out of the tubes. I'm pretty confident in the soundness of the repair, but do keep an eye on it none-the-less.
I did have rust coming out when the water drained. I've tried to cut away the fiberglass and foam on the old rudder to see how bad it actually was but its a little harder that I expected. My recipricating saw is having a hard time going through the areas that were filled with epoxy. I'll try again soon and post the results.
I have to tell you; you guys are scaring the heck out of me with all of this talk about rudder deterioration. Replacing the rudder, with all of the $$$ involved, is not really an option for me at the moment (or any moments in the future I can think of unless I hit the lottery). I had hoped to get down to the boat and try greasing the rudder post, but the wind on the Delaware had both the boat and the floating dock rocking pretty badly, and I decided to retain my lunch if at all possible. Hopefully the weekend weather is a bit calmer.
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Anyone need a mainsail cover? I have a lightly used one in Pacific Blue that was used for one season and is in great shape (installed a StackPack system). Great deal if anyone's interested.
If your rudder is delaminating, it doesn't have to cost an arm and a leg. If you have the time and skill, it can be repaired for less that $200.
Here's my delamination fix...
http://forums.oday.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=744783&highlight=rudder delamination
Here's my delamination fix...
http://forums.oday.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=744783&highlight=rudder delamination
Thanks for calling us on the hijack. Bottom line, if you determine that the binding is a result of a strike to the rudder, chances are that the union between the rudder stock and rudder will be compromised so keep an eye out for evidence of water getting inside the rudder. If you search this forum you'll find some interesting ways that people deal with chronically wet rudders. If you ignore it, you'll eventually join the ranks that include raj, danS and I.
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