Rudder and Steering Radial

[Kraffert]

I have a 1989 Hunter Legend 35.5.

Over the 36 years of her service, the rudder stop rusted and broke off. I got the replacement from Edson, but the original one is stuck so bad, I cannot get the bolts to turn while the sheave is mounted on Salty C's.

I've tried just muscling it, adding an extension to the wrench, using high quality thread grease designed for this situation, heated it with a torch, and simply praying to Poseiden that it would come loose, no dice.

I own a metal fabrication company, so I know I could get it off at the shop, my concern is that if I pull the radial wheel, the rudder will drop out. I've heard that the wheel holds it and I've heard it has its own system to hold it in place.

Anyone pulled theirs off and found out definitively?

Apologies if thus has been covered, I've not found it.

 

[jssailem]

Welcome to the forum.

A photo of your quadrant and the bolt you are attempting to remove would be helpful.

There is no way to predict with any certainty what might be wrong with your system. Owners may have modified it over the years.

It is generally best to play with the rudder shaft and steering system with the boat on the hard. That way, you can set braces to support the rudder.

 

[Kraffert]

She's on a dock, naturally.

It looks to be original equipment.

As far as bolts, I need to remove the after side of the quadrant to get to the 2 bolts that hold the rudder stop on.

I don't have a picture of mine that shows everything, just the part numbers (attached) , but it looks like attached and the part I purchased to replace the broken part attached too.

Edited to add, thank you for your response.

a

 

[JoeWhite]

On my C36, the rudder is held with a bolt through the shaft in a compartment accessible from the cockpit. This is where the emergency tiller is connected. So by removing the quadrant the rudder does not drop. I wonder if yours has this setup. If not, can you install a plumber's hose strap on the shaft to prevent the rudder from dropping.

 

[jssailem]

Sounds like you are planning to do the work in the water. You live in Florida. Warm water. I would five the boat. Wrap line around the rudder and pull the lines up on both sides of the hull. Secure the rudder to cleats on the deck to hold it in place. Then do the work.

An alternative would be to drill a hole through the rudder shaft above the rudder log. Put a long bolt through the shaft, then the rudder will not be able to fall out.

 

[Jim Legere]

I believe that Hunters of that era used foam core rudders (my 1983 did). Such a rudder has neutral buoyancy or floats, unless it is waterlogged. You can probably just put a lashing under the bottom of the rudder from gunwale to gunwale to prevent any unexpected consequences when removing the radial drive quadrant. My 1983 had the rudder shaft above the quadrant pass through a UHMD 'bearing' on a shelf above and there was a collar through-bolted to the shaft that prevented it from slipping down through the bearing.

 

[smokey73]

I have pulled the rudder on my 40.5 and your rudder will fall out unless you secure your rudder by lashing it up as suggested in posts #5 and #6. The rudder is supposed to be neutral buoyancy but I wouldn't count on that since it my be partially or fully waterlogged. It was difficult to remove the bolts so be careful you don't damage the radial. You don't have to worry about water entering the boat since the top of the rudder tube that the rudder fits into is well above the waterline.