I need to replace about a 10' section of the PVC rub-rail carrier on both sides of the boat - mid-ships on both sides. What's the easiest way to do it? I found the PVC rub rail carrier at D&R Marine...so now to do the work. Suggestions, and lessons learned appreciated. Chess in Chesapeake VA
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Rub Rail replacement
I think that you have a different rub rail than the one on my OD 222 which is made of metal, but it is probably put together about the same way as mine. If I was going to remove mine again I'd probably do it the same way that I did when I found that it was leaking and needed caulking. I didn't take the complete rub rail off. Instead, I removed parts of it at a time, caulked it, and reinstalled it. On my boat; The rubber comes together on the stern, and is held in place by two screws. Remove the screws and start with say,-- the Port rubber. Remove it from the track as far as where there's a joint near the bow of the boat. In other words; there's probably at least three sections of molding on your boat that are butted together, and not one complete molding. This is how mine is put together. I would suggest to you at this time that if you're going to remove the rubber and fool around with the moldings, you may as well re-caulk the entire molding all the way around. Rudy told me that the caulking only last about ten years. So if you never did it before, you should really do it now. All the screws that hold the molding on are under the rubber. If they didn't use all the holes in the molding when they attached it at the factory, simply mark each hole where there is a screw. At any rate. You should do one side of the boat at a time. Clean the area with a putty knife, and caulk and replace the molding, and re-insert the rubber. Then pull the rubber out of the Starboard side, starting from the stern. Of course, you're going to need to replace the damaged rub rail where ever needed, as you work each side. I'd use a good Polysulfide caulking such as 3-M Marine Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure 4000 UV. I prefer this over other brands of caulking, because I believe that 3-M has a longer shelf life than other brands that I've tried. It's not that hard of a job, really. I found that it was better to do the job in sections, rather than to take the molding completely off the boat all at once. You'll get the whole thing done and it's all going to fit. Maybe your rub rail being PVC, is one complete piece that butts in the stern, but where you have damaged rub rail on both sides, it will be easier to do one side at a time. Good luck with this. It isn't as hard as you think, and you'll knock it out in no time flat. Joe
I think that you have a different rub rail than the one on my OD 222 which is made of metal, but it is probably put together about the same way as mine. If I was going to remove mine again I'd probably do it the same way that I did when I found that it was leaking and needed caulking. I didn't take the complete rub rail off. Instead, I removed parts of it at a time, caulked it, and reinstalled it. On my boat; The rubber comes together on the stern, and is held in place by two screws. Remove the screws and start with say,-- the Port rubber. Remove it from the track as far as where there's a joint near the bow of the boat. In other words; there's probably at least three sections of molding on your boat that are butted together, and not one complete molding. This is how mine is put together. I would suggest to you at this time that if you're going to remove the rubber and fool around with the moldings, you may as well re-caulk the entire molding all the way around. Rudy told me that the caulking only last about ten years. So if you never did it before, you should really do it now. All the screws that hold the molding on are under the rubber. If they didn't use all the holes in the molding when they attached it at the factory, simply mark each hole where there is a screw. At any rate. You should do one side of the boat at a time. Clean the area with a putty knife, and caulk and replace the molding, and re-insert the rubber. Then pull the rubber out of the Starboard side, starting from the stern. Of course, you're going to need to replace the damaged rub rail where ever needed, as you work each side. I'd use a good Polysulfide caulking such as 3-M Marine Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure 4000 UV. I prefer this over other brands of caulking, because I believe that 3-M has a longer shelf life than other brands that I've tried. It's not that hard of a job, really. I found that it was better to do the job in sections, rather than to take the molding completely off the boat all at once. You'll get the whole thing done and it's all going to fit. Maybe your rub rail being PVC, is one complete piece that butts in the stern, but where you have damaged rub rail on both sides, it will be easier to do one side at a time. Good luck with this. It isn't as hard as you think, and you'll knock it out in no time flat. Joe
Rub Rail follow-up
Joe, Thanks for the insight and recommendation. I am traveling this week, and delivering a boat down the IntraCoastal this weekend, so sadly, I will not be on the boat until next week. I'll take some pics of the damage so we can talk turkey on what it really looks like. There is very little I have not done on a boat or car... so there's little to no fear of the unknown. More important, is getting those "if I did it again I would have..." or the "special tool that really helped was..." I'll drop you a note next week so we can get a good strategy together. I need to replace about 10' of the PCV rub rail carrier on both side...it was cracked. The actual rubber rub rail is in good condition. Happy holidays Chess
Joe, Thanks for the insight and recommendation. I am traveling this week, and delivering a boat down the IntraCoastal this weekend, so sadly, I will not be on the boat until next week. I'll take some pics of the damage so we can talk turkey on what it really looks like. There is very little I have not done on a boat or car... so there's little to no fear of the unknown. More important, is getting those "if I did it again I would have..." or the "special tool that really helped was..." I'll drop you a note next week so we can get a good strategy together. I need to replace about 10' of the PCV rub rail carrier on both side...it was cracked. The actual rubber rub rail is in good condition. Happy holidays Chess
Rub Rail reply
That sounds like a good plan, Chess. I'll be glad to help you in any way that I can. Some guys are reluctant to mess with PVC rub rail for fear of breaking it as they remove it, but at some time or other, the caulking will fail and it can be the cause of leaks. Years ago, I made the big mistake of using a certain cleanser that was recommended in one of my boat books on handy hints. They claimed that this stuff that you can buy in any grocery store, will clean the stains in fiberglass because it has Oxalic Acid, and they were right. It did remove the stains in my fiberglass, but it also ate out my caulking, and my cabin developed leaks! So I've learned over the years through my own mistakes. So now, it's "good Ole soap and water" for me, and the heck with the stains. Happy Holidays to you and yours! Joe
That sounds like a good plan, Chess. I'll be glad to help you in any way that I can. Some guys are reluctant to mess with PVC rub rail for fear of breaking it as they remove it, but at some time or other, the caulking will fail and it can be the cause of leaks. Years ago, I made the big mistake of using a certain cleanser that was recommended in one of my boat books on handy hints. They claimed that this stuff that you can buy in any grocery store, will clean the stains in fiberglass because it has Oxalic Acid, and they were right. It did remove the stains in my fiberglass, but it also ate out my caulking, and my cabin developed leaks! So I've learned over the years through my own mistakes. So now, it's "good Ole soap and water" for me, and the heck with the stains. Happy Holidays to you and yours! Joe
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