I'm going to be installing my Garmin radar on a transom pole. The cable routing should be fine up to the pedestal. I've never had one apart. My display will be on a mount on the pedestal guard. I'd like to run the cable up through the pedestal and drill a hole to let it exit to the display. I'll have to make the hole big enough to pass the connector. Garmin is pretty specific about not cutting the cable. Are there any problems routing the cable this way and/or drilling the fairly large hole in the pedestal? Any hints or tips appreciated. Thanks Al
Routing radar cable up pedistal, DRILL HOLE?????
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They're right about not cutting the cable
The radar is matched to the cable length and if it is altered it will produce an image that is not all in the same plane and that's not a good thing. I installed my radar at the helm also but not in any kind of a pod. I used an Electronics Mount. http://e-mounts.com/ That way I could rotate my radar around and watch it when I was cruising on autopilot, and sitting at my cockpit table, under the dodger and forward of the pedestal. It may not be everyone's piece of cake but I sure like it.--- And since I didn't want the excess cable to be damaged by my steering cables or chain inside the pedestal, I just coiled it forward of the pedestal and secured the coil to the two vertical 1" ss tubes of the Pedestal guard, where it is hidden from view by my folded down table. I recommend you try something like this first. You can always drill out or cut up your pedestal anytime Wish I had a picture to show you.
The radar is matched to the cable length and if it is altered it will produce an image that is not all in the same plane and that's not a good thing. I installed my radar at the helm also but not in any kind of a pod. I used an Electronics Mount. http://e-mounts.com/ That way I could rotate my radar around and watch it when I was cruising on autopilot, and sitting at my cockpit table, under the dodger and forward of the pedestal. It may not be everyone's piece of cake but I sure like it.--- And since I didn't want the excess cable to be damaged by my steering cables or chain inside the pedestal, I just coiled it forward of the pedestal and secured the coil to the two vertical 1" ss tubes of the Pedestal guard, where it is hidden from view by my folded down table. I recommend you try something like this first. You can always drill out or cut up your pedestal anytime Wish I had a picture to show you.
Not true Joseph
The Garmin radar units use Cat5e cabling that is not dependent on length other than having a cable too long. The cable can be cut and a terminal strip used to terminate both ends coming from the display and the radome. I work in the computer industry and that is what these cables were borrowed from. I even spoke with Garmin and although they say not to cut the cable, the tech admitted that cutting and splicing using a terminal strip was just fine and that the cable length no longer matters. Give them a call. They have great support. There are radar units(like my old Furuno) that have a coax cable for sending the image to a display that are very dependent on the cable length. But these too can be cut and spliced if done properly. You can also tune the receivers if you change the cable length. At least on my furuno I could.
The Garmin radar units use Cat5e cabling that is not dependent on length other than having a cable too long. The cable can be cut and a terminal strip used to terminate both ends coming from the display and the radome. I work in the computer industry and that is what these cables were borrowed from. I even spoke with Garmin and although they say not to cut the cable, the tech admitted that cutting and splicing using a terminal strip was just fine and that the cable length no longer matters. Give them a call. They have great support. There are radar units(like my old Furuno) that have a coax cable for sending the image to a display that are very dependent on the cable length. But these too can be cut and spliced if done properly. You can also tune the receivers if you change the cable length. At least on my furuno I could.
Tim is correct
There is no problem cutting the cable. The only reason they advise against this is the inevitable warranty calls they get from people who either can't splice properly or connect the cable improperly at a terminal strip. In my case, it is cut at the mast base as to facilitate removal and reconnection if/when the mast is unstepped. Not a problem!
There is no problem cutting the cable. The only reason they advise against this is the inevitable warranty calls they get from people who either can't splice properly or connect the cable improperly at a terminal strip. In my case, it is cut at the mast base as to facilitate removal and reconnection if/when the mast is unstepped. Not a problem!
thanks
Thanks guys. I was somewhat concerned about drilling a big hole. Life will be much easier knowing I can cut the cable. I think the idea of being able to disconnect the radar to facilitate removal is an unanticipated benefit of cutting it. Good idea! I'll make the cut near where the transom mount is (allowing for oops factors of course). I was under the impression of the first response, that cutting the cable would introduce errors. I'm glad/relieved to hear it's not so. Al
Thanks guys. I was somewhat concerned about drilling a big hole. Life will be much easier knowing I can cut the cable. I think the idea of being able to disconnect the radar to facilitate removal is an unanticipated benefit of cutting it. Good idea! I'll make the cut near where the transom mount is (allowing for oops factors of course). I was under the impression of the first response, that cutting the cable would introduce errors. I'm glad/relieved to hear it's not so. Al
Another route
My pedestal has a block of wood as a spacer between the pedestal and the compass, possibly because the previous owner was very tall. I routed my cable through a grove cut in the bottom of the block of wood. You could always add a spacer to use to route the cable through. I reasoned that if I changed my mind, it was easy to make a new spacer. BTW - I also used a RAM mount, its nice to be able to rotate the display to exactly where you want it and it makes it easy to remove the instrument in the off season to deter theft. I used the second one down on this page: http://e-mount.com/page_results.php?type=normalform&field=ram.category=&string=04007001 BTW when you have your pedestal apart be aware that you use light oil one the chain, don't use grease, at least that's what Calder says.
My pedestal has a block of wood as a spacer between the pedestal and the compass, possibly because the previous owner was very tall. I routed my cable through a grove cut in the bottom of the block of wood. You could always add a spacer to use to route the cable through. I reasoned that if I changed my mind, it was easy to make a new spacer. BTW - I also used a RAM mount, its nice to be able to rotate the display to exactly where you want it and it makes it easy to remove the instrument in the off season to deter theft. I used the second one down on this page: http://e-mount.com/page_results.php?type=normalform&field=ram.category=&string=04007001 BTW when you have your pedestal apart be aware that you use light oil one the chain, don't use grease, at least that's what Calder says.
cool
Dang, I like the idea of being able to swivel the display. Joseph, your pictures have got me thinking (my wife says that's dangerous)! I have to admit that I've sat watch with the autopilot driving and me on the side benches. It would have been nice to see the display without having to get up, especially on a cold watch when finally getting warm and comfy. Al
Dang, I like the idea of being able to swivel the display. Joseph, your pictures have got me thinking (my wife says that's dangerous)! I have to admit that I've sat watch with the autopilot driving and me on the side benches. It would have been nice to see the display without having to get up, especially on a cold watch when finally getting warm and comfy. Al
Ram mounts
They are great. I have used them in my car for CD players(back when a portable was the only option) and in my boat for both radar and GPS. Joseph, sorry if my post sounded a little heavy, I was just coming in after a long, stressful week at work. I need to remember to relax before I start typing.
They are great. I have used them in my car for CD players(back when a portable was the only option) and in my boat for both radar and GPS. Joseph, sorry if my post sounded a little heavy, I was just coming in after a long, stressful week at work. I need to remember to relax before I start typing.
Tim R. -- You didn't sound heavy to me
I didn't take offense to being corrected. I enjoy answering these posts with my personal experience so I kind of do it in automatic. I have some strong opinions that I think are pretty good (most of the time), but like I said, sometimes technology passes me by, and I'm wrong. I have no heartburn in those cases about being corrected. Feel free to keep up the good work. Joe
I didn't take offense to being corrected. I enjoy answering these posts with my personal experience so I kind of do it in automatic. I have some strong opinions that I think are pretty good (most of the time), but like I said, sometimes technology passes me by, and I'm wrong. I have no heartburn in those cases about being corrected. Feel free to keep up the good work. Joe
Another suggestion
is to remove the pins from the connector. I just helped a neighbor route his cable up the mast through an already crowded chase in the extrusion. The plastic connectors just wouldn't make the trip. After several failed attempts I noted that the connectors looked a lot like the Molex type and suggested he contact the manufacturer to see if they could be removed. He did, they were and the cable went up yesterday. Obviously, he has to be sure the pins go back in the same orientation. I realize it's a different installation for yours and a different manufacturer but it might help in making for a smaller hole to drill. Just a thought.
is to remove the pins from the connector. I just helped a neighbor route his cable up the mast through an already crowded chase in the extrusion. The plastic connectors just wouldn't make the trip. After several failed attempts I noted that the connectors looked a lot like the Molex type and suggested he contact the manufacturer to see if they could be removed. He did, they were and the cable went up yesterday. Obviously, he has to be sure the pins go back in the same orientation. I realize it's a different installation for yours and a different manufacturer but it might help in making for a smaller hole to drill. Just a thought.
Second Rick's Suggestion
For my last radar install, I removed the connector. It was the only way I could route it. I had to laugh tho, since my cable wires were different colors than the installation manual said. Fortunately, tech support cleared it right up. Anyhow, it should be a quick job. Take a photo of the connector on before you take it off. Rick D.
For my last radar install, I removed the connector. It was the only way I could route it. I had to laugh tho, since my cable wires were different colors than the installation manual said. Fortunately, tech support cleared it right up. Anyhow, it should be a quick job. Take a photo of the connector on before you take it off. Rick D.
Cut the cable...
the connection on the end is probably as big as the thickness of the binnacle guard! I have the new Garmin Radar... however mounted it on the mast... probably the same set up... with a 4008 display on binnacle guard. The binnacle guard is probably secured by 2 screws at the base... one on each leg. Loosen screws and get a block of wood and a hammer to tap guard up and out. Drill hole in stainless big enough that you can get a rubber gromet or similar device on to protect the cable. Cut the cable... so it will end up somewhere down below where you can work on it. Solder and redo the connections and heat shrink some tubing on each wire... then the whole mess. Silicon the deck fitting before you put the binnacle guard back in place. Leave enough cable up above so you can do the swivel thing. Mine made it through the year without any problems.
the connection on the end is probably as big as the thickness of the binnacle guard! I have the new Garmin Radar... however mounted it on the mast... probably the same set up... with a 4008 display on binnacle guard. The binnacle guard is probably secured by 2 screws at the base... one on each leg. Loosen screws and get a block of wood and a hammer to tap guard up and out. Drill hole in stainless big enough that you can get a rubber gromet or similar device on to protect the cable. Cut the cable... so it will end up somewhere down below where you can work on it. Solder and redo the connections and heat shrink some tubing on each wire... then the whole mess. Silicon the deck fitting before you put the binnacle guard back in place. Leave enough cable up above so you can do the swivel thing. Mine made it through the year without any problems.
snip and tuck
I just finished mounting a RayChart 435 chartplotter in the binnacle of my Beneteau. I mounted the antenna on the sternpulpit and ran the cable through the SS tubing of the pulpit. The instruction manual says to use a soldered connector (TNC type) if you must cut the cable. I went everywhere (including a very complete electronics parts supplier) and no one had a solder-type connector. I used the highest quality solder-less connector I could find. It works great. I think these manufacturers who think you are going to buy their equipment and pass a 3/4" connector through drilled holes, etc. are living in a fantasy land. If they really were consumer-oriented, they would supply an extra cable end with every unit...especially the "external antenna" versions. Agaliha
I just finished mounting a RayChart 435 chartplotter in the binnacle of my Beneteau. I mounted the antenna on the sternpulpit and ran the cable through the SS tubing of the pulpit. The instruction manual says to use a soldered connector (TNC type) if you must cut the cable. I went everywhere (including a very complete electronics parts supplier) and no one had a solder-type connector. I used the highest quality solder-less connector I could find. It works great. I think these manufacturers who think you are going to buy their equipment and pass a 3/4" connector through drilled holes, etc. are living in a fantasy land. If they really were consumer-oriented, they would supply an extra cable end with every unit...especially the "external antenna" versions. Agaliha
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