What would be required to route the jib sheet aft for solo sailing? Suggested traveler length, position, and cleats.
Thanks, BillyBud
Thanks, BillyBud
Routing jib sheets aft
- Thread starter BillyBud
- Start date
The jib sheet goes through a traveler attached to the top of the cabin with a cam cleat on either side of the companionway. When tacking solo, one has to go forward, release the cam cleat, and then reset after completing the tack. This is the standard arrangement from the factory back in 1986.
We have a winch installed aft. I want to add a block a new traveler mid-ship to reach the winch.
Bill
We have a winch installed aft. I want to add a block a new traveler mid-ship to reach the winch.
Bill
So no tracks for jib sheets/jib cars going down port and stbd? Some photos will probably help us help you. 
Correct, no travelers for the jib on mid-ship, either side of the cockpit. The current jib sheet is routed through travelers mounted on either side of the cabin hatch and secured with a cam cleat.
Attached is a photo showing the jib on port tack. An additional picture showing the full side of the Capri with a wrench and cleat mount aft of the cockpit.
I'm interested in the suggested locations and where to purchase the necessary hardware.
Bill
Attached is a photo showing the jib on port tack. An additional picture showing the full side of the Capri with a wrench and cleat mount aft of the cockpit.
I'm interested in the suggested locations and where to purchase the necessary hardware.
Bill
Attachments
Actually, the boat is on a stbd tack because the wind is coming from the stbd side of the boat . . .
That said, could you move the cam cleats farther aft, or perhaps install new cam cleats farther aft?
I haven't heard T-tracks (jib tracks) called travelers before.
That said, could you move the cam cleats farther aft, or perhaps install new cam cleats farther aft?
I haven't heard T-tracks (jib tracks) called travelers before.
The pictures help.
In the photo of the boat sailing it appears the jib isn't fully trimmed for pointing and the tracks on the cabin top aren't helping. That's how it looks to me.
So, I think the jib might be happier being led to a block on the deck near to the rail and hence back to the cockpit winch and tied off on that black cleat. It would run outside the upper shroud. You would have to plan the angle the sheet meets the winch in horizontal and vertical dimensions to prevent over rides.
Unfortunately it is hard to test placement of the track or block. You can learn a lot using the time tested method of placing your foot on the sheet in various places until you like what you see.
How much do you move your jib lead. You may save yourself the trouble of putting track down and just put a block there.
You can buy sailboat hardware online. West Marine, Defender, Rig Rite, Amazon etc.
But first go sailing with crew that can drive upwind, and re-route those sheets to the aft winches and figure out where to put a block or track and how high it needs to be.
Don't be surprised if you find you like the existing setup better.
In the photo of the boat sailing it appears the jib isn't fully trimmed for pointing and the tracks on the cabin top aren't helping. That's how it looks to me.
So, I think the jib might be happier being led to a block on the deck near to the rail and hence back to the cockpit winch and tied off on that black cleat. It would run outside the upper shroud. You would have to plan the angle the sheet meets the winch in horizontal and vertical dimensions to prevent over rides.
Unfortunately it is hard to test placement of the track or block. You can learn a lot using the time tested method of placing your foot on the sheet in various places until you like what you see.
How much do you move your jib lead. You may save yourself the trouble of putting track down and just put a block there.
You can buy sailboat hardware online. West Marine, Defender, Rig Rite, Amazon etc.
But first go sailing with crew that can drive upwind, and re-route those sheets to the aft winches and figure out where to put a block or track and how high it needs to be.
Don't be surprised if you find you like the existing setup better.
There are no two ways about it. I cannot believe that Catalina actually delivered a boat rigged like yours. I think the best solution is to locate jib tracks more traditionally on the deck and install winches and cleats on the coaming. This link should download a PDF of the Capri 18 MK II which will show you the placement of the jib tracks and winches:
Installing jib tracks will give you the flexibility to adjust for various wind conditions. I would not recommend a single block. You've got a great boat and you're absolutely going to love her when you relocate the jib sheets.
George
Installing jib tracks will give you the flexibility to adjust for various wind conditions. I would not recommend a single block. You've got a great boat and you're absolutely going to love her when you relocate the jib sheets.
George
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You need to move the jib lead track and the jib lead block down to the deck ahead of the larger, primary winch on the coaming in the cockpit. Make sure you fill the holes on the cabin top with epoxy after removing the track. I can see jam cleats behind the winches, they look like "horn" cleats but one side will have a tighter fit so you can "jam" the sheet in to secure it. They are very simple to use and very secure. No need to add anything else. The two most important things to remember on this transition:
FIRST, no captive devices between the lead block and the winch.... so that means NO fairleads if you decided to insert a "cam" or "vee" cleat ahead of the winch. I emphatically recomment that you not insert a cleat of any kind between the lead block and the winch...why... you want to be able to "throw" off the sheet so it runs free when you are making your turns. On the other hand, it is desirable to insert the cleat for your halyards ahead of their assigned winch... with or without a fairlead..... this allows you to set the halyard and then use the winch for other jobs if needed. Needless to say, do NOT use those Cam Cleats shown in the pictures for your sheets. NO, NO, NO No captive features on sheets. Those cleats were intended for halyards led aft.
SECOND, the jib lead track's new location will depend on the neutral lead angle of your headsail. If there are 5 holes, then the third hole will be the neutral.... meaning the downward tension on the back edge of the sail (leech) will be the same as the backward tension on the bottom edge (foot). If you draw a line from the mid point of the sail's luff down to the clew (back corner), then extending that line to the deck will give you your neutral lead block location. Or you can just use a little jr hi. geometry, or a protractor.
That's the fore and aft location. Next is side to side location on the deck. Rather than get too technical, it just depends whether you want the sheets to run outside or inside the chainplates (where the shrouds connect to the deck. I think my choice would be inside, since that would still give you the option to pull the sail in closer to the center with a barber hauler (yep, you'll learn about this when you read your "how to sail" book) I can recommend John Rousemaniere's Annapolis Book of Seamanship, btw.
Okey doke... I think that's it... no need to buy any hardware... except a small tube of sealant for the track holes left on the cabin top.
The sheeting angle around the outside of those shrouds doesn’t look right to be. I suspect that the design intent was to have the jib sheet inside the shrouds straight to the tracks on the cabin top.
I’d try running the sheet inside the shrouds, through the existing block on the track, back to the block behind the cockpit winch, then forward to that winch. If the sheet can make the run between the two blocks without fouling anything I think that might be best. If the sheet fouls on the cabin top or itself you could add a new block on the deck in front of the winch, somewhere that the sheet can run cleanly. You could replace the existing track with a new one on the deck somewhere in front of the winch, but I suspect that will give you a worse sheet angle when you want to point upwind.
What Joe said about the captive cam clears behind the winch is right - those are not the right kinds of cleats for a sheet. If you try using the winch they’ll be very hard to work with. Also sheets always run clockwise around winches - the one you pictured will chafe the line running that way.
I’d try running the sheet inside the shrouds, through the existing block on the track, back to the block behind the cockpit winch, then forward to that winch. If the sheet can make the run between the two blocks without fouling anything I think that might be best. If the sheet fouls on the cabin top or itself you could add a new block on the deck in front of the winch, somewhere that the sheet can run cleanly. You could replace the existing track with a new one on the deck somewhere in front of the winch, but I suspect that will give you a worse sheet angle when you want to point upwind.
What Joe said about the captive cam clears behind the winch is right - those are not the right kinds of cleats for a sheet. If you try using the winch they’ll be very hard to work with. Also sheets always run clockwise around winches - the one you pictured will chafe the line running that way.
Upon reading Davidsailor26's post #10, I agree that the jib was meant to run inside the shrouds. It would be very simple and cheap to try that. That is likely how the jib was designed (Or cut for). Moving the clew somewhere else will impact the jib performance. Move the clew out to near the rail will be better for close reaches - which is good for recreational sailing. The cabin top location would point better. Off the wind you may need a whisker pole with the cabin top location to hold the jibe clew out for deeper sailing angles. I recommend a whisker pole for all jib and main rig set ups anyway.
You may find that with the jib led to the existing hardware inside that the tacking would be so much easier you might not be challenged leaving the helm briefly. Trimming the jib around that shroud would be slow.
If you solo sail a lot some sort of auto steering would be a great asset. It could be as simple as a bungie cord.
You may find that with the jib led to the existing hardware inside that the tacking would be so much easier you might not be challenged leaving the helm briefly. Trimming the jib around that shroud would be slow.
If you solo sail a lot some sort of auto steering would be a great asset. It could be as simple as a bungie cord.
