A problem I have is keeping boatspeed up when rounding a windward mark. I race non-spinnaker, and my helming technique is to try to bring the boat around relatively slowly, so that the foresail sheet will be trimmed about right just as I hit the desired new course. The same basic idea is followed when tacking. In both cases I feel the boatspeed falls off too much. Any ideas?
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Joe
Don't go slow....
... start the tack quickly using the boats momentum to carry the sails across, then slow down the turn, so the main and jib trimmers can adjust as you steer the boat to a beam reach, picking up speed before you head downwind.
... start the tack quickly using the boats momentum to carry the sails across, then slow down the turn, so the main and jib trimmers can adjust as you steer the boat to a beam reach, picking up speed before you head downwind.
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Don Alexander
Acceleration
Bob, Perhaps the problem is with the acceleration out of the tack. Many helmsmen sail a little low immediately after a tack and with main and jib sheets just cracked a little. This allows the boat to gather speed more quickly and allows the keel to work properly rather than being stalled. Then they grind in the last little bit and settle the boat back into the groove again. Try it it really works. Regards,
Bob, Perhaps the problem is with the acceleration out of the tack. Many helmsmen sail a little low immediately after a tack and with main and jib sheets just cracked a little. This allows the boat to gather speed more quickly and allows the keel to work properly rather than being stalled. Then they grind in the last little bit and settle the boat back into the groove again. Try it it really works. Regards,
J
John Dawson
Fall off, Don!
Sounds like your advice is right for tacking, but Bob says he is rounding a windward mark, so his new course is off the wind. I think you might do better to go more directly to a new heading and let the trimmers follow you. Slowly changing course probably slows you down more than slow sail trim, at least off the wind.
Sounds like your advice is right for tacking, but Bob says he is rounding a windward mark, so his new course is off the wind. I think you might do better to go more directly to a new heading and let the trimmers follow you. Slowly changing course probably slows you down more than slow sail trim, at least off the wind.
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Alan
I may be wrong, but...
..I think Bob was asking about rounding the weather mark, which has nothing to do with 'tacking' and everything to do with entry and exit. The approach to the mark should be wide and slowly give way to a reach. Passing as close as possible to the mark on the exit and a bear away or jibe. The mistake most skippers make is coming in close to the pin, rounding sharply and heading away, which slows the boat dramatically killing the apparent wind and allowing other boats to drive over you.
..I think Bob was asking about rounding the weather mark, which has nothing to do with 'tacking' and everything to do with entry and exit. The approach to the mark should be wide and slowly give way to a reach. Passing as close as possible to the mark on the exit and a bear away or jibe. The mistake most skippers make is coming in close to the pin, rounding sharply and heading away, which slows the boat dramatically killing the apparent wind and allowing other boats to drive over you.
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Don Guillette
Bob: Over the years I've seen all kinds of roundings. Some are very smooth and other arn't so smooth. Here are some of the dynamics involved. Approaching the mark, the boat wants to keep going straight. The mainsail, which is like a very big rudder, wants to and will overpower the rudder. I've seen a lot of skippers try to fight and muscle the boat around and its not necessary. There is an easier way and that is for the mainsheet/traveler trimmer to ease the main as the skipper is making the turn. Depending on which point of sail they are going to continue on, the trimmer then resets the sail. Its like a dance with both partners working together. On tacking - the goal I use is that the tack should be completed in less than 30 seconds and less than 1 knot of speed is lost. 30 seconds is a long time but with a little practice you can get it down to 20 seconds. The faster you complete the tack, the less boat speed you lose but just jambing through the tack is not the way to go. Additionally, I see a lot of guys start the tack an immediately cut the sheet, which flops all over the place, and the new trimmer has to go like mad to gather up the slack. There is a better way. Start the tack and keep the sheet in place and under pressure until the sail backwinds and pushes the bow through the eye of the wind. In the meantime, the new trimmer is taking up slack. As soon as the bow goes thru the eye of the wind, the trimmer cuts the sheet by pulling straight up on the sheet. It just comes off so much easier that way than trying to unwind it. If it is a self tailing winch, it is a little tougher but it still works. You just have to be a little careful. The next thing I see often is the new trimmer madly cranking in on the sheet. This is not necessary. Take your time ( I don't mean all day) and let the sail power up. Watch your telltails carefully and get them flying. You also might want to reset you fairleads. If you have the Garhauer adjustable system it makes that adjsutment so much easier. If you do have the adjustable system, here's a tip. As the bow goes thrught the eye of the wind, the new trimmer is watching the sail to see how it breaks. Depending on which way it breaks, the failead adjustment is made accordingly. You might think how do I have time to do all this? The answer is - PRACTICE. one other thing to remember is to let the jib trimmer set up first before making any adjustments to the mainsail. What I suggest is that you take all the suggestions and mess around with them. See which one or combination works best for you.
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