Rough bottom..new to me boat

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Jun 8, 2004
39
CS 27 - Nova Scotia (Pugwash)
Just pulled my new to me 1980 CS27. Bottom near bow has rough sections. Most bottom repair suggestions relate to blisters where these are not bumps but hollows.

Would appreciate indication as to how to repair the bad area.
 

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Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
Looks like poor prep. Scrape/sand and recoat.
 

RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
Probably 20+ year old original multiple layers of ablative bottom paint are no longer adhering to the FRG/barrier coat. If you dont let ablatives fully 'ablate away' before applying continual 'new' coats on top, this will occur after 6-7 yrs. in my experience.

On my boats to prevent/remedy such with 'old' ablatives is:
1. sand in those areas where the paint lost adhesion (in the 'holes') and 'fill' with thickened ablative paint, using a polyethylene trowel and building up successive layers until the 'valleys' are completely filled and fair to the surrounding paint - this 'might' prevent release for a year or two as 'filling and fairing' sometimes 'works', sometimes it doesnt.

2. Best (as Ross states) is to 'bite the bullet' and sand it down to FRG/barrier and 'start-over' with new bottom paint; not 'just' the area where the paint released but 'whole and entire large sections'. Ive found over many years that thick accumulated ablative paint will only 'adhere' to especially barrier coat for 7-8 years and then you begin to get 'blow outs of lost adhesion'. Pressure washing with 'extreme pressure' will discover which sections need to be drastically remedied and which can take 'filling and fairing' (only to be drastically remedied a few years later).

BTW -- after sanding down 'whole / large sections' put the first paint coat on in a contrasting color to your final 'choice' color. Only repaint when the first or 'signal' color is starting to show through; if the signal color isnt showing through, then suggest that you sand the 'choice' color layer .... but dont PAINT it. That will keep the 'thickness' down to acceptable dimensions, etc. All the previous applies to the ablatives that can withstand long term haulout without loss of their anti-fouling effectiveness such as Micron CSC, etc.

hope this helps ;-)
 
Oct 6, 2007
1,172
Hunter H30 1982 Chicago IL
Mine looked like that a couple years ago; a 25 year accumulation of mostly ablative paints. I pretty much "bit the bullet"; carefully sanded it down to what appeared to be a barrier coat...if that is possible on a 1982 boat. It was quite hard, very well adhered to the gel coat, but it was definately not the gel coat itself. Then I put on two coats of Interlux Primocon Underwater Primer and three coats of Micron Extra (coat 1 red, coats 2 & 3 dark blue) ablative.
The sanding was a really miserable job. If I were doing it again, I would probably start with a paint stripper instead of so much sanding, or consider having it soda blasted. Time will tell if the Primocon over a well adhered, but old mystery coating was the right choice in lieu of taking it all the way down to the gel coat and doing a new barrier coat.
 
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higgs

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Aug 24, 2005
3,736
Nassau 34 Olcott, NY
Certainly does not look like blisters. If you are racing you will want to take the bottom down to bare glass. If not, who cares? You may lose a tenth of a knot - or maybe 2/10s.
 
Jul 24, 2006
628
Legnos, Starwind, Regal Mystic 30 cutter, 22 trailer sailor, bow rider NEW PORT RICHEY, FL
sail the dam boat, don't worry bout the rough hull. When time for a new bottom paint job then deal with it.
 
Nov 6, 2006
10,219
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
I dunno, Scotian.. Those vertical tracks look suspiciously like the leavings of a gel coat peeler.. which means that you may be looking at places where the barrier is coming off where the base was not completely dried after the peel..?? In any case, I believe that sailing the boat now is the right answer.. and then planning for some detective work when you pull her for your first bottom job. When the old paint is off, it will be apparent what you are dealing with, whether that be a barrier fix and fairing in that area or replacing a couple of layers of old paint after removing many! .. Good luck with it ! Happy Sailing !!
 
Jun 7, 2007
50
Caliber 33 E Tawas
Looks a lot like mine. I sailed the first summer and then did a bottom job over the fall and spring. I used Peel-Away stripper to remove the blue ablative, pretty much down to a greenish coat which it wouldn't seem to remove. Some kind of barrier I assume. I then sanded down to gel. Next was Interlux 2000 followed by VC-17, which works well in my area of the Great Lakes. If you opt for sanding, check the archives. Good info on equipment there, especially about running your sander hose to water before it hits your shop-vac.
My Oday is an '81 and had no blisters at all. One of the reasons for stripping was to verify that. I'm guessing it's not an issue for you either because the water's cooler up there and you haul out every winter.
 
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Aug 2, 2005
374
pearson ariel grand rapids
The vertical pattern could be from where roller tracks met up.
My hull had a few spots like that when I first picked it up, PO had filled the holes with something to provide a smooth surface, made it a real pain to strip as it was much harder than the ablative.

When removing the bottom paint on mine I started out sanding then tried some stripper, but found that the fastest and easiest way was to use a single edge scraper. Took two or three hours to get a small section (maybe 4sq feet) of hull done, But only two or three hours to finish off that side when I switched to the scraper. Great benefit was that with the scraper I was able to stop right dead on the waterline scribe.

Ken.
 
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