The core in the foredeck on my Oday 23 is completely rotten. I was thinking of cutting it out from the inner deck and replacing - a long job and it would be my first time ! A friend suggested drilling small evenly spaced holes in the deck and injecting the West System 105 and 209 Tropical hardener as an alternative. What do you think ? Tks
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Chuck
Rebuld
I'm rebuilding mine. I tried that shortcut and wasn't sucessful with it. I also think there are way to many unknowns below. Course I want to feel 100% comfortable when I go out. Chuck
I'm rebuilding mine. I tried that shortcut and wasn't sucessful with it. I also think there are way to many unknowns below. Course I want to feel 100% comfortable when I go out. Chuck
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Don Evans
Rotten to the Core
Tough break Jonathon...sorry to hear that. Although tempting to do it from below, most people do the repair from above. The bonus is using gravity to your advantage, the drawback is trying to hide the repair and match the gelcoat and non-slip. For small spots of rot the drill, dry and inject method is valid. But sounds like your talking a large surface here and you have to remove the mush and replace the core. I think were talking here of removing part of the deck once you have determined the extent of the rot. Not a job for the faint of heart. You need good references here, preferably with photos. The West Systems epoxy puts out great info. (002-550 "Fiberglass Boat and Repair and Mantenance") and I have heard they have an instructional video on the repair. I have recently signed up for their free publication..."EpoxyWorks". The spring 2002 edition has a great article on repairing the rotten core of a sailboat (give me a fax # and I will send it to you). This is an excellent journal, I highly recommend it. Don Casey's Sailboat Hull and Deck Repair is another one and of course lots of info on the web. Bon chance! Don
Tough break Jonathon...sorry to hear that. Although tempting to do it from below, most people do the repair from above. The bonus is using gravity to your advantage, the drawback is trying to hide the repair and match the gelcoat and non-slip. For small spots of rot the drill, dry and inject method is valid. But sounds like your talking a large surface here and you have to remove the mush and replace the core. I think were talking here of removing part of the deck once you have determined the extent of the rot. Not a job for the faint of heart. You need good references here, preferably with photos. The West Systems epoxy puts out great info. (002-550 "Fiberglass Boat and Repair and Mantenance") and I have heard they have an instructional video on the repair. I have recently signed up for their free publication..."EpoxyWorks". The spring 2002 edition has a great article on repairing the rotten core of a sailboat (give me a fax # and I will send it to you). This is an excellent journal, I highly recommend it. Don Casey's Sailboat Hull and Deck Repair is another one and of course lots of info on the web. Bon chance! Don
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Jonathan
getting serious
Don & Chuck Thanks for the advice. I thought that this might be the case, but I guess that I was trying to avoid the inevitable. The rotten section basically comprises of the whole of the foreward deck ahead of the raised section of the cabin. As I plan to repaint and resurface the upperdeck anyway I'm not too worried about the repaint job, although it's going to be an arduous one anyway. My fax no is 212 937 3949. How did it turn out Chuck ? Tks
Don & Chuck Thanks for the advice. I thought that this might be the case, but I guess that I was trying to avoid the inevitable. The rotten section basically comprises of the whole of the foreward deck ahead of the raised section of the cabin. As I plan to repaint and resurface the upperdeck anyway I'm not too worried about the repaint job, although it's going to be an arduous one anyway. My fax no is 212 937 3949. How did it turn out Chuck ? Tks
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Don Evans
Jonathan...fax Sent
Let me know if you don't recieve this today. An prerecorded operator kicked in just before it sent...so not sure if it went through or not. Don
Let me know if you don't recieve this today. An prerecorded operator kicked in just before it sent...so not sure if it went through or not. Don
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Jonathan
Don - tks
Don Faxed received ok. This service converts the fax and sends it to me via email. This is the only reliable way to get through to this part of the world - via satellite ! Reading the first couple of paragraphs reminds me of exactly how this horrid mess started, a simple job removing the hardware for repainting turned into a nightmare ! Many thanks for your help. Jonathan
Don Faxed received ok. This service converts the fax and sends it to me via email. This is the only reliable way to get through to this part of the world - via satellite ! Reading the first couple of paragraphs reminds me of exactly how this horrid mess started, a simple job removing the hardware for repainting turned into a nightmare ! Many thanks for your help. Jonathan
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Mark
Core repair
Don, I have a 1972 O'Day 23' myself, and the core underneath the starboard stanchion is rotten. Your situation sounds much worse than mine, due to size of area. I've got Don Casey's book and on a business flight to Philly, I read it. (I'm a novice too when it comes to epoxy and fiberglass repairs too). My section of repair will be about 10" of the deck, 2" forward, the base, and 6" aft of the stanchion mount. I'm wondering what kind of core do I need too? I'm interested in hearing how you do on yours. I've heard the cost of materials isn't too bad, and it's really not that scary of a thing to tackle (epoxy and fiberglass repair). Good luck! Keep us posted on your progress. Mark s/v Cattivo I 1972 O'Day 23' Green Bay, Wisconsin
Don, I have a 1972 O'Day 23' myself, and the core underneath the starboard stanchion is rotten. Your situation sounds much worse than mine, due to size of area. I've got Don Casey's book and on a business flight to Philly, I read it. (I'm a novice too when it comes to epoxy and fiberglass repairs too). My section of repair will be about 10" of the deck, 2" forward, the base, and 6" aft of the stanchion mount. I'm wondering what kind of core do I need too? I'm interested in hearing how you do on yours. I've heard the cost of materials isn't too bad, and it's really not that scary of a thing to tackle (epoxy and fiberglass repair). Good luck! Keep us posted on your progress. Mark s/v Cattivo I 1972 O'Day 23' Green Bay, Wisconsin
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Chuck
duh
Jonathan, I was brain dead when I read your post..you have a 23..with a poptop? Mine is a 71, the reason I'm rebuilding mine from underneath is the glass is broke, so it will have to be epoxied as well. I just did the lay out for the cuts. On the 71 model..it is 1/2" plywood on the foredeck, not balsa. This is not a big area and is a very do able task from underneath. The only thing is your working space in the v berth. Make sure you get supports to put pressure on the wood when it gets epoxied to the original deck. Sorry, I was thinking you had a bigger boat for some reason. By all means, in order to save the nonskid and repaint above, go for it underneath. Chuck
Jonathan, I was brain dead when I read your post..you have a 23..with a poptop? Mine is a 71, the reason I'm rebuilding mine from underneath is the glass is broke, so it will have to be epoxied as well. I just did the lay out for the cuts. On the 71 model..it is 1/2" plywood on the foredeck, not balsa. This is not a big area and is a very do able task from underneath. The only thing is your working space in the v berth. Make sure you get supports to put pressure on the wood when it gets epoxied to the original deck. Sorry, I was thinking you had a bigger boat for some reason. By all means, in order to save the nonskid and repaint above, go for it underneath. Chuck
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