My CDI furler is driving me nuts. The problem is that the part identified in the manual as the "cup" falls from it's proper location by about 1/4" or so and chafes the line. I've taken it apart and rebuilt twice, following directions in manual. Still not right. There is at least one other boat in my marina with the same problem, but it doesn't bother him as much as me. My thoughts on why the problem persists are: 1) the forestay is an inch or so too long (I'm not going to have it re-cut); 2) the shrouds need to be tighter (They are currently set at 470 lower and 740 upper. Any tighter is scary.); 3) Poor design (which I'm convinced of but none of you fine folks have mentioned this problem). The "cup" seems to serve no purpose that I can see. My thought is to just get rid of the cup and go without it. Crazy Dave (I bought the boat from him) says not to, but hasn't given me a reason why, and I've tried every other suggestion he's made to no avail. The owner of CDI was no help and told me if I didn't know what I was doing to take it to a rigger. If I take it to a rigger, it will be to install a Harken! I'd love to hear your thoughts. Thanks... Gerard
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
S
Sean Coerse
CDI
Gerard Sorry to hear about your problem, I've got a H240 with CDI from "Crazy Dave". I didn't want a furler, but he talked me into it. I'm glad he did. As far as your problem have you looked at moving the first lead for the furling line lower to eliminate the chafe? The cup should sit in the same place and only have movement upwards not down. I'll look at my boat tomarrow to verify.
Gerard Sorry to hear about your problem, I've got a H240 with CDI from "Crazy Dave". I didn't want a furler, but he talked me into it. I'm glad he did. As far as your problem have you looked at moving the first lead for the furling line lower to eliminate the chafe? The cup should sit in the same place and only have movement upwards not down. I'll look at my boat tomarrow to verify.
J
Jeff Peltier
alignment
Some questions are: Is the line rubbing on the side of the cup or top. Is the alignment of the furling line proper. Is the furling line wrapped in the right direction. If all the parts are in place and the furling line lead properly, you should not have a chaffing problem. There are many of us using this system with no problems. Mine is on a H260. Good luck trouble shooting. Jeff Peltier
Some questions are: Is the line rubbing on the side of the cup or top. Is the alignment of the furling line proper. Is the furling line wrapped in the right direction. If all the parts are in place and the furling line lead properly, you should not have a chaffing problem. There are many of us using this system with no problems. Mine is on a H260. Good luck trouble shooting. Jeff Peltier
G
Gerard
Sean and Jeff...
Thanks for the replies... Sean- Yeah, roller furlers are a great tool. I've had on my last two boats. The alignment now is 90 degrees. I'm concerned about lessening that and getting an uneven wrap on spool. It would keep the line from chafing, but I'd still have the problem of the falling cup. Jeff- The cup is properly aligned. The line rubs the top of the opening in the cup when the cup falls. The cup is screwed tightly to the main bearing, with several washers between the t-bolt and cup to take up any slack. Maybe I should add washers above the bearing at the location of the thrust washer? The line is properly wrapped. "If all the parts are in place and the furling line lead properly, you should not have a chaffing problem. There are many of us using this system with no problems." -I know! That's what's driving me nuts! Thanks... Gerard
Thanks for the replies... Sean- Yeah, roller furlers are a great tool. I've had on my last two boats. The alignment now is 90 degrees. I'm concerned about lessening that and getting an uneven wrap on spool. It would keep the line from chafing, but I'd still have the problem of the falling cup. Jeff- The cup is properly aligned. The line rubs the top of the opening in the cup when the cup falls. The cup is screwed tightly to the main bearing, with several washers between the t-bolt and cup to take up any slack. Maybe I should add washers above the bearing at the location of the thrust washer? The line is properly wrapped. "If all the parts are in place and the furling line lead properly, you should not have a chaffing problem. There are many of us using this system with no problems." -I know! That's what's driving me nuts! Thanks... Gerard
J
Jeff Peltier
more thoughts
After reading your last reply, two things are possible. First, the cup is not falling, but the spool is rising, only gravity holds it down. Two things can cause this. Either the furling line is slightly less than 90 causing the spool to lift, in which case you would lower the line to pull slightly down, or the head sail is not cut properly (clue is too low) for the turning blocks on the sheet lines, causing it to lift the spool as you sheet in. This can be more of a problem as you roll in wraps and is a reason why most boats have travelers. I know of one person that uses a snatch block on the forward stanction to lower the angle of the sheet as he furls to keep the proper angle. Hope this helps. Jeff Peltier
After reading your last reply, two things are possible. First, the cup is not falling, but the spool is rising, only gravity holds it down. Two things can cause this. Either the furling line is slightly less than 90 causing the spool to lift, in which case you would lower the line to pull slightly down, or the head sail is not cut properly (clue is too low) for the turning blocks on the sheet lines, causing it to lift the spool as you sheet in. This can be more of a problem as you roll in wraps and is a reason why most boats have travelers. I know of one person that uses a snatch block on the forward stanction to lower the angle of the sheet as he furls to keep the proper angle. Hope this helps. Jeff Peltier
M
Mike Pajewski
I have a CDI on my 26
I have used a CDI furler for 5 years on my 26. Although I had mine professionally installed, the instructions with the furler were specific, in that you needed to shorten the forestay to allow for the length of the toggles and the drum. Mike Pajewski
I have used a CDI furler for 5 years on my 26. Although I had mine professionally installed, the instructions with the furler were specific, in that you needed to shorten the forestay to allow for the length of the toggles and the drum. Mike Pajewski
G
Gerard
Jeff...
That's a very good thought! I've always looked at this as the cup falling, but I bet you're right that the spool is rising. I'll double check the angle that the line exits the drum. Crazy Dave installed this originally, and I've rechecked a bunch of times, but sometines a bunch + 1 is the charm. I'm really interested in you second suggestion. The sail is OEM, so I think the cut is probably ok, but what about this... If the jib is too slack or tight on the foil could it (the jib) be the culprit? That is to say that if I tighten the jib halyard will that help or just pull the drum up further? I suppose if the cut is ok and the clew is too low, then the head and tack would be as well. Or, maybe the halyard needs loosening? Cold and rainy here today, but I can't wait to check this out tomorrow. I appreciate your helping me work through this. I'm anxious to here any more thoughts. Thanks!... Gerard
That's a very good thought! I've always looked at this as the cup falling, but I bet you're right that the spool is rising. I'll double check the angle that the line exits the drum. Crazy Dave installed this originally, and I've rechecked a bunch of times, but sometines a bunch + 1 is the charm. I'm really interested in you second suggestion. The sail is OEM, so I think the cut is probably ok, but what about this... If the jib is too slack or tight on the foil could it (the jib) be the culprit? That is to say that if I tighten the jib halyard will that help or just pull the drum up further? I suppose if the cut is ok and the clew is too low, then the head and tack would be as well. Or, maybe the halyard needs loosening? Cold and rainy here today, but I can't wait to check this out tomorrow. I appreciate your helping me work through this. I'm anxious to here any more thoughts. Thanks!... Gerard
A
Alan
Hey Sean, I think we convinced Crazy Dave...
...that head sail furlers were a desirable item on the trailerable boats. If I recall a few years ago, while he was active on this site, he was advising against them. We let him know the error of his ways. alan PS I have the old CDI on my 26, and I am convinced that the stock forestay was never shortened. I can't seem to tighten it enough. Don't have a chafing problem though. The line is lead starboard. Next years project!
...that head sail furlers were a desirable item on the trailerable boats. If I recall a few years ago, while he was active on this site, he was advising against them. We let him know the error of his ways. alan PS I have the old CDI on my 26, and I am convinced that the stock forestay was never shortened. I can't seem to tighten it enough. Don't have a chafing problem though. The line is lead starboard. Next years project!
J
Jeff Peltier
Clew location
The halyard is connected to the spool through the extrusion, so when you tighten the halyard, it ties the whole unite together. The reason you can lift the spool up is to get access to the turnbuckle to tighten the forestay. This is why if either the sheets or furling line are pulling above perpendicular in any way, they will try to lift the whole unite up. Head sails designed for roller furling have the foot of the sail taper up so the clew is at a higher point. This help ensure the sheet line is pulling perpendicular or lower. As you furl the sail in, the angle changes somewhat and might take you above perpendicular. this would start to put a little up pressure on the furling system. If the sail were cut incorrectly, with the clew too low, this would amplify the problem. Hope this info helps solve the problem. Jeff Peltier
The halyard is connected to the spool through the extrusion, so when you tighten the halyard, it ties the whole unite together. The reason you can lift the spool up is to get access to the turnbuckle to tighten the forestay. This is why if either the sheets or furling line are pulling above perpendicular in any way, they will try to lift the whole unite up. Head sails designed for roller furling have the foot of the sail taper up so the clew is at a higher point. This help ensure the sheet line is pulling perpendicular or lower. As you furl the sail in, the angle changes somewhat and might take you above perpendicular. this would start to put a little up pressure on the furling system. If the sail were cut incorrectly, with the clew too low, this would amplify the problem. Hope this info helps solve the problem. Jeff Peltier
M
Michael Bell
My CDI has a pin...
...that holds the spooling assembly and stainless cup down. The 2” pin goes through near the top of the spooling assembly and passes through a notch in the plastic portion of the front stay. That keeps it from raising or falling. The CDI was purchased in ’98.
...that holds the spooling assembly and stainless cup down. The 2” pin goes through near the top of the spooling assembly and passes through a notch in the plastic portion of the front stay. That keeps it from raising or falling. The CDI was purchased in ’98.
J
Jeff Peltier
regarding the pin
The pin is used to keep the extrusion from sliding down on the turnbuckle. Depending on how much slack is on top, this pin may need to be pulled to get the spool high enough to access the turnbuckle. For a diagram of how all this works, go to sailcdi.com and see the manuel. It might help make sense of how it works. Jeff Peltier
The pin is used to keep the extrusion from sliding down on the turnbuckle. Depending on how much slack is on top, this pin may need to be pulled to get the spool high enough to access the turnbuckle. For a diagram of how all this works, go to sailcdi.com and see the manuel. It might help make sense of how it works. Jeff Peltier
M
Mark Millham
I HAD this problem
I had this porblem last year, when i bought my '94 H26. And i think you'll find that shortening the headstay will solve this problem. Whoever installed my CDI system, didn't shorten the stay at all. I had to attach the turnbuckle to the bow eye for correct tension. this led to numerous operational problems, the most annoying of which was the sail would not un furl from the cokpit, and the drum issue as well. My rigger took 5" off the stay and now attached to the chainplate correctly. For the $150.00 it cost me, it was well worth it. The system works like a dream now!
I had this porblem last year, when i bought my '94 H26. And i think you'll find that shortening the headstay will solve this problem. Whoever installed my CDI system, didn't shorten the stay at all. I had to attach the turnbuckle to the bow eye for correct tension. this led to numerous operational problems, the most annoying of which was the sail would not un furl from the cokpit, and the drum issue as well. My rigger took 5" off the stay and now attached to the chainplate correctly. For the $150.00 it cost me, it was well worth it. The system works like a dream now!
- Status
- Not open for further replies.