Ripped the genoa on the lower shroud bolt

Aug 12, 2014
214
Universal Marine Montego 25 San Pedro, CA
Yesterday we were out for a day sail south of the Port of Los Angeles. We sailed out of the Angel's Gate and were about five miles offshore when we decided to turn around to head back in.

I took the opportunity to heave-to so we could take a brief break before the journey back. We have a large (IMO) genoa - probably a 150 - on a roller furler. Tacking with the genoa fully unfurled can be challenging, since our Montego 25 has three shrouds on either side of the mast - a fore and aft lower, and the cap shroud. The lower shrouds attach to the mast with a bolt which protrudes beneath the spreaders (we have one set of spreaders on our small 25' boat). A pretty typical setup in my limited experience around sailboats, observing such things. As you tack, the significant portion of the genoa athwartships of the shrouds of course tends to get hung up against the shrouds as the bow goes through the wind during the tack. Generally - sometimes with a little gentle encouragement on the soon-to-be working sheet - it will eventaully come lose and finish its transition to the other side of the boat.

Anyway, I had earlier furled the genoa a bit - perhaps four or five feet of the foot were reduced - since it was a little breezy yesterday and the boat was becoming a handful (the furling settled it down nicely). We had just hove to and I had just started to go down into the cabin when I heard that awful "Rrrrriiiiiiiiiip!" sound. Uh oh, that obviously can't be good.

As the title of this thread says, it turned out that the damn genoa had caught the edge of the bolt that protrudes where the lower shrouds attach just beneath the spreaders for the cap shrouds.

It was not the first time I've hove to, and certainly it was the first time that the genoa had ever caught that bolt, as far as I know.

My questions to the forum are: is this unusual? Is it unheard of? (Surely not.) Any recommendations on how to proceed? A marina neighbor suggested "grinding down" the bolt, but I don't want to make it so that it can't be removed when that time comes. I was thinking of trying to cap and tape it but I also don't want to create a situation where it would trap moisture up there and contribute to corrosion.

Is it always such a bear to tack with a 150 genoa, in terms of the sail making it across to the other side during a tack?

As for the sail, well I will be getting new sails shortly. We bought the boat about a year and a half ago and I judge the sails to be either original equipment, or close to it. The main is original, I think, and shows signs of having been re-stitched at some point. We discovered a new tear in the foot of the main, near the clew patch, *also* while we were out yesterday. We had a bit of a problem with the outboard as well, while in the main channel on the way back in - quite an exciting day for us!

I'm not overly broken up about having to purchase the new sails. I'd been looking forward to it for a while now but I wanted to get "every last drop" out of the sails before I sprung for new ones, and I had budgeted for it way back when we bought the boat. For the local folks, I will be going with either Quantum Sails in Long Beach or the Doyle loft in Costa Mesa (next to Minny's) because I want to work with a local loft who will visit my boat in person. Any recommendations on that front would be welcome (feel free to PM me if you'd rather not post that publicly).

I'll attach a picture of the genoa - the long dark line on the right is the tear. The UV strip is face-down on the ground, but the tear is along the line where the UV strip ends. I will try to locate a picture of the spreaders and the lower shroud attachment points.

Any comments or recommendations are very welcome, and thanks in advance for your comments!

-Mark
IMG_5219.JPG
 
Mar 1, 2012
2,182
1961 Rhodes Meridian 25 Texas coast
I agree with your neighbor- if the bolt sticks out far enough to snag the sail, it's too long. Either grind it down or replace with shorter one
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,343
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
When you think about new sails, consider this:

A very illuminating and interesting discussion on co.com for those of you who might be in the market for a new jib.

http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=155362

Please read all three pages. Enjoy.

In addition to making tacking easier with a smaller headsail, you'll find heaving to with anything more than a 110 to be a bear, if not impossible. I'm not making this up, been discussed here and on other boating forums for decades. It was wise of you to take in some of your big foresail before you tried that.

Good luck.
 
Jun 8, 2004
853
Pearson 26W Marblehead
cap nut is a good Idea, if it works, you might think about covering the bolts with some kind of a cover similar to what I use on turnbuckles to stop snags. About jibs Years ago I used a 150 deck sweeper, That was before roller furling. Today I own two jibs a 125 and a working jib for breezier days. It depends on a couple of things 1 conditions in your area. If its blowing every day you might want to avoid a 150 2 how old you are and how much of a hurry you are in. And finally about new sails
I wouldnt buy sails from one of those offshore lofts. I would consider challenger cloth and use a close by reputable sailmaker
BF
 
Aug 12, 2014
214
Universal Marine Montego 25 San Pedro, CA
Thanks for the replies. I will indeed procure a couple of cap nuts, and will likely *also* tape them somehow.

However if I end up with a smaller jib - perhaps a 110% - that may render these modifications unnecessary.

I will go with a local sail loft, I wasn't even considering doing otherwise. I'd rather pay a little extra (cruising sails) and have someone personally come inspect my boat and rig, and take measurements in-person, than save a little money (which could easily be eaten up with return shipping if things don't fit well).

Stu, I had read that article previously but now it hits much closer to home. :) In the Cal-20s that we learned to sail on, the jibs were 100% at most, but may have been smaller. Certainly tacking was very simple and the jib transitioned easily with NO FUSS whatsoever. I'm liking the idea of having that on my boat (without having to furl the jib). I didn't read anything in there on heaving to or reducing (furling) the jib prior to doing so with a larger genoa. Frankly it didn't even occur to me; I had partially furled it while sailing to get better control and balance.

In the Long Beach area, we don't often have truly light winds, at least not once you're offshore. We regularly have 10+ knot wind in the afternoon - not strong by most standards, but it quickly overwhelms the 150 in terms of control, on our boat. The boat does not point as well as it ought to either, but does better with the jib partially furled.

I suspect that the 150 it came with was fitted when the boat was in its home Floridian waters.
 

Gunni

.
Mar 16, 2010
5,937
Beneteau 411 Oceanis Annapolis
The tear is on the stitch line of your sacrificial UV fabric - a pretty common rip location for an older sail. Every time you have the strip restitched, you put more perforations in the sail. A rigger can give you protection options for that spreader bolt. When you roll up your Genoa for a hove to bring it to less than 100% J measurement, you likely don't need much and that practice will avoid having the head sail straining across your spreader. Finally talk with your local sail loft about your desire to reduce the size of your headsail. There are some great options being offered. The local guys will know what is working for others. It may require some changes to you deck hardware.
 
Aug 12, 2014
214
Universal Marine Montego 25 San Pedro, CA
Thanks for the reply, Gunni. Since we are rigged with a roller furler on the headsail, what modifications to deck hardware would be required? We do have genoa tracks/cars that allow the fairleads to adjust fore and aft (not that I adjust them as much as I should).

And a big Thank You for the proper heave-to procedure for overlapping genoas. Live and learn, I guess. :|

I am in the process of gathering quotes for new sails. Got one quote yesterday, need to reach out for two other places I've heard about locally. I finally bit the bullet and ordered my Mast Mate which I will use to go aloft - long overdue. Now I will be able to do all my fun projects on top of the mast!
 
Mar 1, 2012
2,182
1961 Rhodes Meridian 25 Texas coast
Take a look at this place-

JudyBSails.com, a distributor for Hyde Sails.

She's a long time poster on the Trailer Sailor board, and has made sails for years.. Has an outstanding reputation AND she's in San Francisco
 
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Gunni

.
Mar 16, 2010
5,937
Beneteau 411 Oceanis Annapolis
The guys that spend more time in the open ocean with more wind and wave like the high-cut clew head sails. You lose something in pointing, but the sail is up out of the wash and it is easier to see forward. Don't know how that would play out for your 25footer, but it would be a good question for the guys at Quantum, Doyle or Neil Pryde. You shrink your sail square footage, and improve performance off the wind. Regarding hardware - the sheet leads go further outboard and aft.
 
Mar 1, 2012
2,182
1961 Rhodes Meridian 25 Texas coast
Tehani-Oct-29-cropped.jpg
"The guys that spend more time in the open ocean with more wind and wave like the high-cut clew head sails. You lose something in pointing, but the sail is up out of the wash and it is easier to see forward."

Not just on the ocean. If you are sailing short handed,, or solo I feel a deck sweeping jib does not belong on the boat.. Block way too much forward vision. I sail most often under my working jib, which is high cut AND on a 2 foot pennant. I have shrimp boats and barge traffic to watch out for- sure not safe to not be able to see forward over a good range of bow section.

My 150 is also high cut, and on a pennant, slight loss of pointing ability be damned. The important part is, even well heeled over, I can still see under that jib