I installed a Garhauer rigid vang this weekend, and am very impressed with its construction (and price!). Actually, I'm not quite done--I'm not sure what to do with the control line. The vang itself has no provision for cleating, but includes more than enough line to run it anywhere on the boat. I figure the full range of motion from fully compressed to fully extended takes about 10-12 feet of line, so some provision will need to be made for the accumulation. At the moment, it's tied off to one of the cleats in the track on the underside of the mast, which I temporarily repositioned just aft of the vang's boom bracket, but that's a less than ideal place for 12 feet of coiled line. I could put a turning block at the mast base, and route the line around the companionway with fairleads, but that gets expensive, and I don't want to drill into my cabin top if I can avoid it. I also thought about routing it back to the end of the boom, but the extra line is still a problem. Any suggestions?
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Tom
Considering the same...
Hi Tom, I am considering a rigid vang. How difficult is the Garhauer rigid vang to install and take off for lowering the mast and trailering? Thanks, Tom
Hi Tom, I am considering a rigid vang. How difficult is the Garhauer rigid vang to install and take off for lowering the mast and trailering? Thanks, Tom
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Tom Wootton
I'll have to get back to you on that...
because I haven't done it yet. The vang is connected to the mast bracket with a single vertical bolt, which acts as a hinge pin and is easily removed. I guess the vang could remain attached to the boom (I usually leave the sail attached to the boom also). Another concern I had was whether the mast bracket would hit the cabin top when I lower the mast. I measured carefully, and ran a string from the mast crutch to the point where the mast base would be when resting in the crutch. From all this I determined that the bracket bottom should be 2 1/2" above the base of the mast. Don't take my word for it. If it works I'll let you know, but I hope to leave the boat in the water for a while.
because I haven't done it yet. The vang is connected to the mast bracket with a single vertical bolt, which acts as a hinge pin and is easily removed. I guess the vang could remain attached to the boom (I usually leave the sail attached to the boom also). Another concern I had was whether the mast bracket would hit the cabin top when I lower the mast. I measured carefully, and ran a string from the mast crutch to the point where the mast base would be when resting in the crutch. From all this I determined that the bracket bottom should be 2 1/2" above the base of the mast. Don't take my word for it. If it works I'll let you know, but I hope to leave the boat in the water for a while.
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Harvey Small
Here's what I did
There is a place on the port side of the cabin top that corresponds to the sheet stoppers on starboard. I put a set of sheet stoppers there, and used a turning block to lead the rigid vang line aft to the cabin top, and then into the cockpit. It works well, although you use a cam cleat.
There is a place on the port side of the cabin top that corresponds to the sheet stoppers on starboard. I put a set of sheet stoppers there, and used a turning block to lead the rigid vang line aft to the cabin top, and then into the cockpit. It works well, although you use a cam cleat.
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Tom Hultberg
Use what you have...
Tom, I set mine up using the following system: Since I have a jib furler, I don't need the one of the sheeves at the mast base. I run the Garh. line thru the first sheeve at the base of the mast (aft most),thru the 1st sheeve in the deck org. and back thru the port side of the starboard clutches. I run the main sail halyard thru the next middle sheeve, etc. and I run the center board thru the last set. I ran the vang up and down to know how muck line I really needed and burnt the line off giving me an extra couple of working feet. This systym works great for me. Good Luck!!
Tom, I set mine up using the following system: Since I have a jib furler, I don't need the one of the sheeves at the mast base. I run the Garh. line thru the first sheeve at the base of the mast (aft most),thru the 1st sheeve in the deck org. and back thru the port side of the starboard clutches. I run the main sail halyard thru the next middle sheeve, etc. and I run the center board thru the last set. I ran the vang up and down to know how muck line I really needed and burnt the line off giving me an extra couple of working feet. This systym works great for me. Good Luck!!
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Tom Wootton
Harvey, another question
Harvey, I am considering your approach and I called Hunter to find out what provision was made in the cabintop for installing the sheet stoppers (and a deck organizer) on the raised areas on the port side. They told me that there is aluminum backing under the hardware on the starboard side, but they could not verify that the same backing was put under the corresponding raised areas on the port side. They suggested I cut out a section of headliner, install a backing plate, and a cover plate for the hole. Needless to say, I'm not real excited about this plan. Did you find aluminum backing under those raised areas, or did you cut holes in your headliner? Thanks in advance Tom Wootton
Harvey, I am considering your approach and I called Hunter to find out what provision was made in the cabintop for installing the sheet stoppers (and a deck organizer) on the raised areas on the port side. They told me that there is aluminum backing under the hardware on the starboard side, but they could not verify that the same backing was put under the corresponding raised areas on the port side. They suggested I cut out a section of headliner, install a backing plate, and a cover plate for the hole. Needless to say, I'm not real excited about this plan. Did you find aluminum backing under those raised areas, or did you cut holes in your headliner? Thanks in advance Tom Wootton
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Tom
Integrated cam cleat
The Garhauer rigid vang can be ordered with an integrated cam cleat like most vangs employ (add $15 to the price). While not quite as convenient as having it easily accessible from the cockpit, it prevents having to install extra hardware on deck. Fair winds... Tom
The Garhauer rigid vang can be ordered with an integrated cam cleat like most vangs employ (add $15 to the price). While not quite as convenient as having it easily accessible from the cockpit, it prevents having to install extra hardware on deck. Fair winds... Tom
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Bob Gravenstine
Test drill for plates.
I have a 96 H26 and I have installed the deck organizer and sheet stopper on the port side of the boat. If in doubt about the glassed in plates, drill a very small pilot hole in the location where you want to mount the hardware and check for aluminum in the drill shavings. If present, you have the plates in the deck. Just drill the proper size hole and tap for a machine screw. If not, you will need to cut into the overhead and use backing plates. Good luck. Bob s/v Gravyboat
I have a 96 H26 and I have installed the deck organizer and sheet stopper on the port side of the boat. If in doubt about the glassed in plates, drill a very small pilot hole in the location where you want to mount the hardware and check for aluminum in the drill shavings. If present, you have the plates in the deck. Just drill the proper size hole and tap for a machine screw. If not, you will need to cut into the overhead and use backing plates. Good luck. Bob s/v Gravyboat
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Tom Wootton
Re: Test Drill
Bob, That's good advice, which I intend to follow, but I'm dying to know: did YOU find aluminum, or did you have to perform headliner surgery?
Bob, That's good advice, which I intend to follow, but I'm dying to know: did YOU find aluminum, or did you have to perform headliner surgery?
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Bob Gravenstine
I found the aluminum plates.
Drilled and tap for the proper size machine screw. Looks just like the starboard side and hard to tell it was not a factory installation. Go for it. Bob S/V Gravyboat
Drilled and tap for the proper size machine screw. Looks just like the starboard side and hard to tell it was not a factory installation. Go for it. Bob S/V Gravyboat
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Harvey Small
Hate to admit it
I hate to admit it, but my dealer did the installation. If I have a job for them over the winter, I can leave my boat in the yard and not have to pay storage...
I hate to admit it, but my dealer did the installation. If I have a job for them over the winter, I can leave my boat in the yard and not have to pay storage...
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Jeff
turning block
I replaced the double turning block with a quad (2 blocks high) with 4 clutches on the starboard side and 3 on the port side. This allows the solid vang, main halyard, and single line reefing to be on that side and the spinnaker halyard and board on the other with a clutch for each head sail sheet. Jeff Peltier
I replaced the double turning block with a quad (2 blocks high) with 4 clutches on the starboard side and 3 on the port side. This allows the solid vang, main halyard, and single line reefing to be on that side and the spinnaker halyard and board on the other with a clutch for each head sail sheet. Jeff Peltier
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