Rigid Vang positioning

[Geoff K]

2 questions:

1) How do I choose the location for rigid vang attachment to the boom? I have a Garhauer vang that was installed a year ago by the yard. When fully extended the boom is a few degrees above horizontal. When fully compressed it is 15 or so degrees below horizontal. I asked the Garhauer rep at SS Chicago about this and he said it should be the opposite. I like Garhauer's assessment better but am a bit hesitant to drill and tap 6 more holes in the boom. The Garhauer rep said I could just move the mounting plate back one hole and drill 2 new holes but that doesn't do it. Ergo; if I do it proper, where should the boom be with the vang fully extended and with it fully compressed?

2) Should the vang compress to where the outer cylinder is touching the hardware at the end of the inner cylinder? i.e. as far as it mechanically can. Now the primary tackle (the group of blocks I pull on) meets (and stops further movement) when there is 6 3/4" left of travel before the outer cylinder is stopped. It looks like I can correct this (if it is in error) by shortening the line in the secondary tackle that works directly on the cylinders. Should I?

Thanks

Geoff

 

[Joe]

Don't make this more complicated than it need be... First disconnect the vang from the boom. Now.... match the desired height of the boom above horizontal with the vang completley extended. That's it.

Don't worry about the vang running our of clearance when compressed.... the sail will not allow it to go that far.

 

[Brian M H23]

With the vang at ~ 40 degrees, it should hold the the boom level. To me that means there's only one place it can go.

 

[Clark]

A couple of things Geoff; the internals are just springs so it is no big deal to bottom them out if need be. If you run out of adjustment before you bottom out, then the thought to shorten the secondery line would work but may not be needed. In general, you don't need as much travel below horizontal as above but the primary question is does it have enough upward travel to properly adjust your boom. If so, you're there; if not then a small adjustment may be all that is needed. Also, Garhauer is a great company to deal with. You may be able to get a different length inner tube/springs to give you the upward travel you need.

 

[Don Guillette]

Geoff K: When I lived in So Ca and sold and installed Garhauer products I installed the vangs exactly the way the yard installed yours. The reason you want the vang to position the boom about 10 degrees (which is not very much) above horizontal is that is your very light air setting. If you have a rigid vang that would extend you could mount that vang so the boom is horizontal but with the Garhauer it only goes one way - down.

To move the vang is more work than it appears. I never tapped holes in the boom or mast because the walls are too thin. I used RivNuts which are a product designed by the aircraft and auto industry to attach things like mirrors and police emergangy lights to cars etc. They are much stronger than tapped holes. To use RivNuts you'd have to remove the plate.

So, if the boom is resting on the vang when the sail is flaked at 10 degrees above horizontal you're OK in my opinion.

Before you start moving things around, check the operation of your vang and you can do it at the dock. The primary function of the vang is to adjust twist. Say you have an upwind dock. Just hoist the main and you should see the top of the sail twisted off. Crank on the vang and watch the twist disappear. If it does, which I think it will, you're OK.

The springs that comes with the unit are more than adequate but I used a set Garhauer called GOLD. That's what they were called many years ago. I don't know what they call them now and maybe they use them now as OE. Anyway, they looked like something off the back of a 1964 Chevy p/u and probably were overkill but for me "more is better".

Based on your description, I'd wouldn't mess with the location of the boom vang. Just go out and sail your boat but be sure to use your vang as it is an important sail trim adjustment tool.

 

[Geoff K]

Thanks, everyone. This helps.

Let me reiterate to be sure I've got it. The maximum upward movement of the boom needed is 10 degrees. The maximum downward movement is defined by how far the sail will let it go.

This means I have much more motion in the vang than needed; no problem with that. The only thing missing now is a stable boom to lean on (and sometimes fall on) while bringing the sail in on rough seas. With the vang fully compressed the boom hits the cabin top. Thus a foot or more drop at mid point from it's sailing position when I lean on it. Which leads to another question about raising the boom but I'll put it in a new post.

Thanks

Geoff

 

[Brian M H23]

I personally like my boom to be able to go higher.
If the wind is blowin' and you need to gybe, the last thing you want is to have the boom come across low and hit someone, or to get the boom in the water and round up.

Letting the vang off and having the kicker raise the boom well above sailing position, lets you depower your main and bring it across easily. Then you vang back on and go!

 

[Clark]

Geoff, you have hit upon one of the few weaknesses of a rigid vang. It will give when leaned on very hard. Grabbing the boom might not be a habit we should develop but it is a natural reaction. Some people leave the topping lift attached and adjusted for minimum height as a safety measure. Others may have additonal suggestions.

 

[Don Guillette]

There are two types of gybes - accidental and controlled. As Brian indicates an accidental gybe is very dangerous. I almost bought the farm with an accidental gybe during a race from Redondo Beach to Long Beach. The boat driver was sailing by the lee and for some reason I took a step backwards, just a reflex, and the next thing I saw was a brown boom end flashing across at eye level. The first thing I did when we got to Long Beach was go to West Marine and buy an auto inflate life jacket. Not that it would have done me any good in that situation but at least I'd have been a floating body!!

So, an accidental gybe is to be avoided. With a controlled gybe, your best friend is the traveler but you have to be quick about it as there is a lot of slack you have to deal with. In any directional change I like to keep the same sail shape so that is why I make good use of the traveler and don't mess with the other mainsail controls. That is just my preference. A mate has to do what he is comfortable with and that is why there are different ways to gybe. In windy conditions, I prefer the "chicken Gybe". It is much easier on the nerves and safer. Does everyone know what a "chicken Gybe is"?

Additionally, when I installed the rigid vang, I eliminated the topping lift. I never like that thing flooping around and hitting the sail. It bothered my Karma!!