OK gang, I just bought a '94 23.5 project for 6k. It has been sitting in fresh water for a long time and it shows it. I ordered the stern rail seats and a manual(guy couldn't find it) from Hunter, as well as a bimini from the chandlery. I am going down to Fla next week and would like to hit a west marine for running rigging and a few other ods and ends. Since I don't have the manual yet, can anyone tell me the lengths? Can I use the 240 lengths that were posted on the other thread? Also, how do I fix/replace the rivits that hold the spreaders to the mast? I noticed that two of them were missing! I also can't find the mast raising/lowering parts.(pole and side supports) Can I make these items? thanks. I haven't sailed the boat yet, but look forward to it as soon as I get her cleaned up and sea worthy.
Rigging
- Thread starter BigGerman
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ahoy
ahoy Big German, I found a manual for my 240 on the hunter links here. I noticed there are 2 manuals listed for download for the 23.5. also in the chandy there is running rigging specs you can grab as well. good luck with the new girl.
ahoy Big German, I found a manual for my 240 on the hunter links here. I noticed there are 2 manuals listed for download for the 23.5. also in the chandy there is running rigging specs you can grab as well. good luck with the new girl.
Those are the H23 manuals
...not H23.5. My manual is up at the lake and I might not get up there for another week. I think you might find the lengths in the archives. Are you asking about the running rigging? The H240 lengths would be close. Its mast is just a little shorter. You could make the mast raising system parts if you had to. The easiest would be if somebody could post the lengths and pictures of both ends of the pole (notch in one end and two loops at the other) and the bridles (pelican hook at one end and it might be called a "stem ball" at the other). Swaging or crimping the ends would be the biggest issue. Perhaps you could have them made up. Julian at USSpars is always very helpful. If nobody else gets you the info, I can send it either the night of Aug 27 or Sep 4, depending on whether or not I get a ride to the lake this weekend. (My vehicle is in the shop...) ...RickM...
...not H23.5. My manual is up at the lake and I might not get up there for another week. I think you might find the lengths in the archives. Are you asking about the running rigging? The H240 lengths would be close. Its mast is just a little shorter. You could make the mast raising system parts if you had to. The easiest would be if somebody could post the lengths and pictures of both ends of the pole (notch in one end and two loops at the other) and the bridles (pelican hook at one end and it might be called a "stem ball" at the other). Swaging or crimping the ends would be the biggest issue. Perhaps you could have them made up. Julian at USSpars is always very helpful. If nobody else gets you the info, I can send it either the night of Aug 27 or Sep 4, depending on whether or not I get a ride to the lake this weekend. (My vehicle is in the shop...) ...RickM...
Don't attempt to make a mast raising pole
I agree with Rick, you can probably make the bridals that kook from the stanchions to the mast. However, I would STRONGLY advise purchasing a mast raising pole from Hunter. It is heavy gauge stainless or aluminum that takes a lot of stress as it acts as a means to transfer force to the base of the mast as you tension up on the halyard and mainsheet that are attached to this pole. You can't just go and buy a piece of electrical conduit and make it work. The results would be catastrophic! You were wise to get the manual. It has a lot of good information in it. Good Luck with your renovations. Post some photos. Jonathan Costello Heeling Powers
I agree with Rick, you can probably make the bridals that kook from the stanchions to the mast. However, I would STRONGLY advise purchasing a mast raising pole from Hunter. It is heavy gauge stainless or aluminum that takes a lot of stress as it acts as a means to transfer force to the base of the mast as you tension up on the halyard and mainsheet that are attached to this pole. You can't just go and buy a piece of electrical conduit and make it work. The results would be catastrophic! You were wise to get the manual. It has a lot of good information in it. Good Luck with your renovations. Post some photos. Jonathan Costello Heeling Powers
Running Rigging Specs
Here is what someone provided me. My manual has not been found since my wife "straightened out" the den. If somone could make me a copy I would make it worth their while. Halyard and Sheet lengths Specs per manual Main halyard - 5/15" 73' Genoa halyard - 5/16" 65' Main sheet - 3/8" 40' Genoa sheets 7/16" 32' For the gin pole call Hunter and get one from them they can give you the dimensions and West Marine can make one up for you as well all by mail.
Here is what someone provided me. My manual has not been found since my wife "straightened out" the den. If somone could make me a copy I would make it worth their while. Halyard and Sheet lengths Specs per manual Main halyard - 5/15" 73' Genoa halyard - 5/16" 65' Main sheet - 3/8" 40' Genoa sheets 7/16" 32' For the gin pole call Hunter and get one from them they can give you the dimensions and West Marine can make one up for you as well all by mail.
23.5 Mast Rivets
Are the Rivets or the bolts missing? Each spreader bracket has two rivets and two angled 1/4 X 20 bolts that go on the other end of the bracket through the mast and out the other bracket. Julian at US Spars is the guy to get with on that.
Are the Rivets or the bolts missing? Each spreader bracket has two rivets and two angled 1/4 X 20 bolts that go on the other end of the bracket through the mast and out the other bracket. Julian at US Spars is the guy to get with on that.
Sheets
I replaced my main and jib sheets last year. The main was 7/16 but I downsized it to 3/8 due to so much friction in the blocks. I had to push the boom out even in more than light air. I also made it longer (45 feet) because it was too short for raising the mast. With the blocks as far apart as they would go from the anchor well to the top of the gin pole, the blocks would meet in the anchor well before I had enough tension to easily get the forestay turnbuckle started. I downsized the jib sheets to 3/8 as well in order to fit the end of my Forespar whisker pole, and I made them longer (60 feet total) so they'd reach to the stern rail sets that I had installed. Looking at Rick's numbers, maybe the ones that came with my boat weren't the originals. I see that the H240 manual gives 56' for the mainsheet and 50' for the jib sheets. The longer mainsheet makes sense since the attachment point is closer to the floor then on the H23.5. At 40 cents or so a foot you can buy extra and always make them shorter if you like. ...RickM...
I replaced my main and jib sheets last year. The main was 7/16 but I downsized it to 3/8 due to so much friction in the blocks. I had to push the boom out even in more than light air. I also made it longer (45 feet) because it was too short for raising the mast. With the blocks as far apart as they would go from the anchor well to the top of the gin pole, the blocks would meet in the anchor well before I had enough tension to easily get the forestay turnbuckle started. I downsized the jib sheets to 3/8 as well in order to fit the end of my Forespar whisker pole, and I made them longer (60 feet total) so they'd reach to the stern rail sets that I had installed. Looking at Rick's numbers, maybe the ones that came with my boat weren't the originals. I see that the H240 manual gives 56' for the mainsheet and 50' for the jib sheets. The longer mainsheet makes sense since the attachment point is closer to the floor then on the H23.5. At 40 cents or so a foot you can buy extra and always make them shorter if you like. ...RickM...
Pictures
Thanks for all the info guys. I found a web site that had the specs for the running rigging for the 23.5; I=25.5" J=8.5" P=25.6" E=10" ISP=25.5 JSP=8.5 It calls for 5/16 on the halyards and they have a formula for figuring the lengths using the above numbers. Hopefully the boys at West Marine will be able to help me figure it all out. I'm also going to take a sample of each line with me so I can match the dia. at least. I will error on longer rather than shorter, cause you can always shorten them. As for the spreaders, it does have a bolt in the front but I thought it was "fix" that someone had done. It has one rivit in each side and then a bare hole. I'll take pictures and post them when I get back from Fla. I'm calling hunter for the pole. As for the side cables, if I can get the lengths and attachement specs, I can get them made (I have a friend who is a aircraft mechanic and has the cable making tooling. Again, thanks for all the help.
Thanks for all the info guys. I found a web site that had the specs for the running rigging for the 23.5; I=25.5" J=8.5" P=25.6" E=10" ISP=25.5 JSP=8.5 It calls for 5/16 on the halyards and they have a formula for figuring the lengths using the above numbers. Hopefully the boys at West Marine will be able to help me figure it all out. I'm also going to take a sample of each line with me so I can match the dia. at least. I will error on longer rather than shorter, cause you can always shorten them. As for the spreaders, it does have a bolt in the front but I thought it was "fix" that someone had done. It has one rivit in each side and then a bare hole. I'll take pictures and post them when I get back from Fla. I'm calling hunter for the pole. As for the side cables, if I can get the lengths and attachement specs, I can get them made (I have a friend who is a aircraft mechanic and has the cable making tooling. Again, thanks for all the help.
In Fla
Well we are here in Fort Myers watching Ernesto go by. We had two good days in Saint Pete aboard a 46 foot hunter center cockpit. Sweeet. My bride said she could live on it...and why isn't our boat this nice... I told her I was just $290,000 short on cash, and the 23.5 was going to have to work for now. Anyway, off to West Marine tomorrow. Whoohoo!
Well we are here in Fort Myers watching Ernesto go by. We had two good days in Saint Pete aboard a 46 foot hunter center cockpit. Sweeet. My bride said she could live on it...and why isn't our boat this nice... I told her I was just $290,000 short on cash, and the 23.5 was going to have to work for now. Anyway, off to West Marine tomorrow. Whoohoo!
running rigging
Have a look here for running rigging. You might save a bit over west marine. http://www.cajuntrading.ca/hunter.htm
Have a look here for running rigging. You might save a bit over west marine. http://www.cajuntrading.ca/hunter.htm
Running Rigging Specs
I just wanted to confirm the numbers that Rick Webb posted. I have an original H23.5 manual in front of me. His numbers are correct except the Genoa sheet is 32 feet, not 35. The manual's length of 32 feet would be for a single line attached at the middle to the clew of a hanked-on jib, giving 16 feet per side. As I mentioned, I replaced mine with 60 feet. This is to have enough length (30 feet per side) for the roller furler that gets several wraps of sheets when furled, plus long enough to reach the back of my cockpit and stern rail sheets. (With Spinlock PowerCleats replacing the horn cleats by the winches, I can operate the jib sheets from anywhere.) ...RickM...
I just wanted to confirm the numbers that Rick Webb posted. I have an original H23.5 manual in front of me. His numbers are correct except the Genoa sheet is 32 feet, not 35. The manual's length of 32 feet would be for a single line attached at the middle to the clew of a hanked-on jib, giving 16 feet per side. As I mentioned, I replaced mine with 60 feet. This is to have enough length (30 feet per side) for the roller furler that gets several wraps of sheets when furled, plus long enough to reach the back of my cockpit and stern rail sheets. (With Spinlock PowerCleats replacing the horn cleats by the winches, I can operate the jib sheets from anywhere.) ...RickM...
Ditto on the bolts
, there should be two. As for the "tear"; very interesting. I too had cracks in the same spot that hadn't opened up like yours. I also welded them and resurfaced. Aluminum is tough to weld! My mast was dropped by a previous owner during stepping when the ( I assume ) halyard on the gin pole slipped. The gin pole was bent and the mast hole cracked. My guess is that the spreaders hit the deck and the flex cracked the mast OR the two bolts were tightened too much at one point which squeezes the mast terribly. Then with the flexing during sailing it opens up. Last theory, water in mast during unstepped winter storage settled there and froze. Just my guesses.
, there should be two. As for the "tear"; very interesting. I too had cracks in the same spot that hadn't opened up like yours. I also welded them and resurfaced. Aluminum is tough to weld! My mast was dropped by a previous owner during stepping when the ( I assume ) halyard on the gin pole slipped. The gin pole was bent and the mast hole cracked. My guess is that the spreaders hit the deck and the flex cracked the mast OR the two bolts were tightened too much at one point which squeezes the mast terribly. Then with the flexing during sailing it opens up. Last theory, water in mast during unstepped winter storage settled there and froze. Just my guesses.
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