What happening if your rigging tension is to loose? Is it just a performance problem? I'm worried about over tighting, I know that will cause problems..
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someone else recently supplied this link
which will give you everything you need to know about any rig www.riggingandsails.com/pdf/selden-tuning.pdf
which will give you everything you need to know about any rig www.riggingandsails.com/pdf/selden-tuning.pdf
Too loose is when you lean on the mast
and it moves. Too tight is when you can play tunes on the shrouds like a bass fiddle. In reality the rig should be tight enough that the lee shrouds don't go slack while you are sailing with the wind forward of the beam. There are others here that take a more scientific approach but you won't get into trouble with what I said.
and it moves. Too tight is when you can play tunes on the shrouds like a bass fiddle. In reality the rig should be tight enough that the lee shrouds don't go slack while you are sailing with the wind forward of the beam. There are others here that take a more scientific approach but you won't get into trouble with what I said.
In the same vein as Ross to keep it simple .....
Too loose: Subjects the rigging to shock/impact loads .... shortens the service life of the rigging. Too slack a forestay (backstay): the jib luff will 'sag' off to leeward - which will cause excess heel and lessen the ability to sail close-hauled; while also GREATLY increasing the boat's tendancy to 'skid' off to leeward. Possibly wont hold the mast 'in column' ... and if excessive (out of column) can cause the mast to buckle/fail. Can promote the mast of adversely "pump" when in high winds (see imact, etc. above). There are LOTS of suitable 'mast tuning' guides on the Internet and elsewhere ... all of which use the 'mark I eyeball' to get the rigging adjustments ---- 'good enough'.
Too loose: Subjects the rigging to shock/impact loads .... shortens the service life of the rigging. Too slack a forestay (backstay): the jib luff will 'sag' off to leeward - which will cause excess heel and lessen the ability to sail close-hauled; while also GREATLY increasing the boat's tendancy to 'skid' off to leeward. Possibly wont hold the mast 'in column' ... and if excessive (out of column) can cause the mast to buckle/fail. Can promote the mast of adversely "pump" when in high winds (see imact, etc. above). There are LOTS of suitable 'mast tuning' guides on the Internet and elsewhere ... all of which use the 'mark I eyeball' to get the rigging adjustments ---- 'good enough'.
this may be helpful
here's a mast tuning guide that will answer your questions. A Loos guage is unecessary in your case. Besides they're expensive. A fishing scale will do the trick if you like measuring the tension. You might google "mast tuning" to find more guides... there's lots.
here's a mast tuning guide that will answer your questions. A Loos guage is unecessary in your case. Besides they're expensive. A fishing scale will do the trick if you like measuring the tension. You might google "mast tuning" to find more guides... there's lots.
Older Boats
There is no real formula or value for rig tension. Keeping the mast in column and for most masthead sloop rigs slightly raked aft are the most important points for most of us. Forestay tension should be the highest followed by the upper shrouds. Forward lowers next and aft lowers last. The backstay controls the rake. Whatever guage or scale you use should be used to insure equal tension for port and stbd to give you your best pointing equalization on opposite tacks. If you follow the recomended tension on the Loos guage keep in mind the compression on the mast may be fine for a boat with a strong coachroof and a compression post that will take the load but and older boat with a soft foot on the post or deck coring that make have been wet at one time in it's life could allow the mast to compress the coachroof, look around your marina and you will find a few of these. I set up with enough tension so that when sailing the leeward shroud is slack enough to make a 2" circle if you hold it between thumb and index finger. Check the rig a couple of times a year or after you push the boat hard and look for an obvious change, if something goes slack find out what yielded, a swage, tang, pin, or turnbuckle. The wire rarely streaches. Good luck.
There is no real formula or value for rig tension. Keeping the mast in column and for most masthead sloop rigs slightly raked aft are the most important points for most of us. Forestay tension should be the highest followed by the upper shrouds. Forward lowers next and aft lowers last. The backstay controls the rake. Whatever guage or scale you use should be used to insure equal tension for port and stbd to give you your best pointing equalization on opposite tacks. If you follow the recomended tension on the Loos guage keep in mind the compression on the mast may be fine for a boat with a strong coachroof and a compression post that will take the load but and older boat with a soft foot on the post or deck coring that make have been wet at one time in it's life could allow the mast to compress the coachroof, look around your marina and you will find a few of these. I set up with enough tension so that when sailing the leeward shroud is slack enough to make a 2" circle if you hold it between thumb and index finger. Check the rig a couple of times a year or after you push the boat hard and look for an obvious change, if something goes slack find out what yielded, a swage, tang, pin, or turnbuckle. The wire rarely streaches. Good luck.
A good question
I took my mast (O'Day 25) down for the first time last summer to put in a plate that allowed me to run the lines aft. I AM NOT A RIGGER. I've been sailing for a bit over ten years and have had the O'Day for 5. A couple of the guys at my club have a loos guage. You might ask around to borrow one before putting out money for something you won't use that often. Here is my word of warning for those of us not learned in the ways of stresses, etc. A friend at the club was racing. Ran three races no problems. then just sailing around before taking it in the mast snapped almost in half. Turns out a small plastic piece at the end of the spreader that holds the shroud to the end of the spreader had broken. The shroud slipped off the end of the spreader. Next time he comes about without the tension on the, now way to loose, shroud and snap no more mast. I didn't look at the end of the shroud when mine was down. Its wraped in its boot and never crossed my mind. I'm thinking about it now. Live and learn and hopefully keep your mast. Mike
I took my mast (O'Day 25) down for the first time last summer to put in a plate that allowed me to run the lines aft. I AM NOT A RIGGER. I've been sailing for a bit over ten years and have had the O'Day for 5. A couple of the guys at my club have a loos guage. You might ask around to borrow one before putting out money for something you won't use that often. Here is my word of warning for those of us not learned in the ways of stresses, etc. A friend at the club was racing. Ran three races no problems. then just sailing around before taking it in the mast snapped almost in half. Turns out a small plastic piece at the end of the spreader that holds the shroud to the end of the spreader had broken. The shroud slipped off the end of the spreader. Next time he comes about without the tension on the, now way to loose, shroud and snap no more mast. I didn't look at the end of the shroud when mine was down. Its wraped in its boot and never crossed my mind. I'm thinking about it now. Live and learn and hopefully keep your mast. Mike
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