Rigging an O'Day 240

[Namaste]

I am looking for detailed info on changing the running rigging on an O'Day 240. Seems simple enough, but I've never had a boat with internal rigging. There seems to be something other that a straight line from one end of the boom to the other. Could there be a pulley or something in there? It appears there is one line at one end and two lines at the other, and pulling on both of them at one end pulls the single line at the other? Hate to sound so stupid, I just don't want to pull something out with no way to see whats happening inside. The mast seems simple, just not sure about the boom.
Thanks,
joe

 

[JoeB]

I have the same on my Oday 240 - They are internal reefing lines. And yes, there is a pully inside the boom. The idea is you can pull on one line and reef both the clew and foot of the sail at the same time from the cockpit. It takes a little trial and error to get the lengths right, but is well worth the time to have it set up before you need it.

 

[Joe11688]

I am looking for detailed info on changing the running rigging on an O'Day 240. Seems simple enough, but I've never had a boat with internal rigging. There seems to be something other that a straight line from one end of the boom to the other. Could there be a pulley or something in there? It appears there is one line at one end and two lines at the other, and pulling on both of them at one end pulls the single line at the other? Hate to sound so stupid, I just don't want to pull something out with no way to see whats happening inside. The mast seems simple, just not sure about the boom.
Thanks,
joe

Joe,
I have a 1986 O'Day 222 with Z-Spar internal halyards. My boom has three internal pendant lines with three sheaves at the end of the boom and three clam cleats at the goose neck. I'm using the center line for my clew out haul, the Starboard line for my topping lift, and the Port line for my reefing. My topping lift consists of a covered cable similar to a life line, which is attached to the mast head and comes down to within 12" of the back of the boom. The end of this cable has a marine eye swadged on and a single sheave attached to that. The Starboard line coming out the end of the boom runs through this sheave and is attached to the end of the boom via a small shackle. When I reef my mainsail, I do it all at the mast. In the reefing procedure with the sail up, I take up on the topping lift which will support the boom so that I can lower the main sail down to a point where the reefing cringle is even with the horn on the goose neck, commonly called the "Ram's Head". I remove the first sail slide from the sail track. (leaving it in creates too much tension in the lower portion of the sail when it's reefed.) I then insert the luff cringle on the horn and pull the reefing line so that the new foot is stretched into position. The topping lift is let off, and the loose sail is roller and tied with the three reefing gaskets using slipped reef knots. I'm not familiar with the type of reefing that you have on your 240, but maybe it works as well as what I'm using once you get used to it. I would attach two strong twines on to these lines for tag lines, and pull out the pendant lines just to see what it looks like and how it's made up. Also, you may want to call Rudy Nickerson Nickerson and ask him about this type of reefing. He owns all the O'Day boat molds and at one time, was having this boat along with the 192's built by a guy in Bristol RI back in the mid 1990's. http://www.drmarine.com/ Here's some pics of my set up. That last pic shows a short line above the winch with a slipped reef knot tied to it. I use this for my sail slide stop, and it works great. Check it out.
Joe

 

[Namaste]

rigging a 240

I have the same on my Oday 240 - They are internal reefing lines. And yes, there is a pully inside the boom. The idea is you can pull on one line and reef both the clew and foot of the sail at the same time from the cockpit. It takes a little trial and error to get the lengths right, but is well worth the time to have it set up before you need it.

Thank you. Do you think it's possible to install new lines by connecting the new ones to the old and then pulling them through. I'm worried that it might get caught up in the pulleies. There apprears to be no access to the inside.

 

[peterbud]

Pulling new lines

Thank you. Do you think it's possible to install new lines by connecting the new ones to the old and then pulling them through. I'm worried that it might get caught up in the pulleies. There apprears to be no access to the inside.

I needed to change out my main halyard last year. I taped the ends of the old and the new together and had no problem at all. Just be sure to overlap each line far enough and dont get to thick so it will make the bends.

 

[Joe11688]

Thank you. Do you think it's possible to install new lines by connecting the new ones to the old and then pulling them through. I'm worried that it might get caught up in the pulleies. There apprears to be no access to the inside.

The reefing in the 240 is altogether different than what I have on my 222. What I would do is use a strong twine for a tag line and attach it to the single line at the goose neck and pull the two lines and pulleys right out of the back of the boom so that it all comes out in one piece with the block connected. Then I would make the block up with the new lines and tie it to the tag line and pull it back it. I've always whipped the ends of all of my running rigging with whipping twine. I have a sailor's leather palm and an assortment of various needles including carpet needles. whenever I attached a tag twine to a halyard or control line, I'd thread it into a large carpet needle and run the needle right through old or new halyard and tie the string to it with a small bowline. You may need a little tape over it so that the line doesn't get hung up on you when you're pulling it.
Joe

 

[Namaste]

The reefing in the 240 is altogether different than what I have on my 222. What I would do is use a strong twine for a tag line and attach it to the single line at the goose neck and pull the two lines and pulleys right out of the back of the boom so that it all comes out in one piece with the block connected. Then I would make the block up with the new lines and tie it to the tag line and pull it back it. I've always whipped the ends of all of my running rigging with whipping twine. I have a sailor's leather palm and an assortment of various needles including carpet needles. whenever I attached a tag twine to a halyard or control line, I'd thread it into a large carpet needle and run the needle right through old or new halyard and tie the string to it with a small bowline. You may need a little tape over it so that the line doesn't get hung up on you when you're pulling it.
Joe

Thanks, I guess thats what I'll try.