i have a stay/shroud measurement device, but not sure exactly how to use it. this is the first time i have had the mast down and then up so i have never adjusted the rig before. This is our first full season in the boat. Any ideas? thank you bill
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Video Tape
Brion Toss at briontoss.com is the best source I have found. I went throught hunting for sources about a month ago and this was the best source. I have performed the tunning and as a result of the video and using the measurement device I know a lot more about what I am doing and am better at observing under sail. The URL for the video is https://commerce5.pair.com/brion/cgi-bin/web_store/web_store.cgi. The tape that did so much for me is called Tunning Your Rig. At $25 it is sure worth it as opposed to $250 for a rigger. Eventually I will get the other tapes so that I can handle more. Good Winds Dave s/v DAMWEGAS
Brion Toss at briontoss.com is the best source I have found. I went throught hunting for sources about a month ago and this was the best source. I have performed the tunning and as a result of the video and using the measurement device I know a lot more about what I am doing and am better at observing under sail. The URL for the video is https://commerce5.pair.com/brion/cgi-bin/web_store/web_store.cgi. The tape that did so much for me is called Tunning Your Rig. At $25 it is sure worth it as opposed to $250 for a rigger. Eventually I will get the other tapes so that I can handle more. Good Winds Dave s/v DAMWEGAS
Bill; Since there are no absolute settings for the rigging, use the tension measuring device to get the upper shrouds the same, and the lower shrouds the same. Making sure that the mast is perpendicular. The forestay, and backstay should be as follows: 1. If you have an adjustable backstay, set the forestay tight with a slight bend in the mast toward the rear with the backstay adjuster tightened. This will keep the stick straight when you ease off the back stay to go down wind. 2. If you do not have an adjustable backstay, tighten the forestay, and backstay tight with a slight bend aft on the mast. This will give you good upwind ability, and you will have to live with the off wind performance. With either arrangement go sailing and look at the forestay while sailing upwind (this will require going forward and sighting up the stay) you should have a slight curve to the stay. If you have a big curve it is probably too loose. Play with the tension until you are happy with the way she sails. Measure the tension and use the readings as a guide. The shrouds should only be tight enough to keep the stick straight while sailing. Good luck! Michael
Don't Overtighten
Bill, I've had my 25.5 for 10 years and don't have a tension gauge. I use the "feel right" method, though unscientific, it works well enough to successfully club race. In addition to what Michael said, here's a few tips. 1) Please do not overtighten-this can drive the mast right down into the deck, causing cracking and depression of the cabin top. You don't want them piano wire taut! More like a dull thunk instead of a twang!
2) First, stand in front of the mast, grasping the shrouds with each hand and feel the tension to see how equal they are. Same with uppers and lowers. Adjust the shrouds until you have about 1-1/2 to 2" deflection each way when grasping the shroud at shoulder height by applying firm, but not forceful, pressure. I tighten my uppers and lowers the same. 3) Look up the mast to see if you see any bend or curve from side to side. Also sight up the mast to see if it is raked fore or aft. Straight is the norm with a bit of aft rake ok. Again, don't overtighten. An adjustable backstay can be used to add more or less rake but if you don't have one, a slight aft rake will give you decent performance in most conditions. 4) Once you have the mast straight, check to see if it is aligned properly side to side by using a halyard. Loosen the halyard and bring it down until it just touches the toe rail on one side. Move the halyard to the other side of the boat to the corresponding spot on the toe rail. If it just touches, you are straight! If not, then alternate loosening one side and tightening the other the same number of turns until the halyard is equal on both sides. Then re-sight up the mast to check for side bend. 5) Once you feel the mast is straight with proper tension, take the boat for a sail in decent winds; 10+. While sailing close hauled, look at the shrouds on the lee side...if they are too loose, they will be visibly slack and wobbly. Readjust if needed. 6) Once you feel you have the proper tension, again, recheck with the halyard and give the shrouds the "feel test" and you're done! This process can be refined somewhat with a tension gauge but, for the cruiser or casual racer with this boat, it's good enough! HTH, Dick Vance H-25.5 "Honey Bear"
Bill, I've had my 25.5 for 10 years and don't have a tension gauge. I use the "feel right" method, though unscientific, it works well enough to successfully club race. In addition to what Michael said, here's a few tips. 1) Please do not overtighten-this can drive the mast right down into the deck, causing cracking and depression of the cabin top. You don't want them piano wire taut! More like a dull thunk instead of a twang!
2) First, stand in front of the mast, grasping the shrouds with each hand and feel the tension to see how equal they are. Same with uppers and lowers. Adjust the shrouds until you have about 1-1/2 to 2" deflection each way when grasping the shroud at shoulder height by applying firm, but not forceful, pressure. I tighten my uppers and lowers the same. 3) Look up the mast to see if you see any bend or curve from side to side. Also sight up the mast to see if it is raked fore or aft. Straight is the norm with a bit of aft rake ok. Again, don't overtighten. An adjustable backstay can be used to add more or less rake but if you don't have one, a slight aft rake will give you decent performance in most conditions. 4) Once you have the mast straight, check to see if it is aligned properly side to side by using a halyard. Loosen the halyard and bring it down until it just touches the toe rail on one side. Move the halyard to the other side of the boat to the corresponding spot on the toe rail. If it just touches, you are straight! If not, then alternate loosening one side and tightening the other the same number of turns until the halyard is equal on both sides. Then re-sight up the mast to check for side bend. 5) Once you feel the mast is straight with proper tension, take the boat for a sail in decent winds; 10+. While sailing close hauled, look at the shrouds on the lee side...if they are too loose, they will be visibly slack and wobbly. Readjust if needed. 6) Once you feel you have the proper tension, again, recheck with the halyard and give the shrouds the "feel test" and you're done! This process can be refined somewhat with a tension gauge but, for the cruiser or casual racer with this boat, it's good enough! HTH, Dick Vance H-25.5 "Honey Bear"Yo Dave!
Couldn't crack that web site, did I get it right? https://commerce5.pair.com/brion/cgibin/web_store/web store/cgi. Thanks
Couldn't crack that web site, did I get it right? https://commerce5.pair.com/brion/cgibin/web_store/web store/cgi. Thanks
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