Why does my '83 Hunter 27 always go to Port when I back her up? We've been out crusing, and find setting the anchor to be a real chore since no matter what direction I turn the wheel, she won't back up in a straight line. This seems to be unique to the Hunter, as other boats don't seem to have a problem holding a straight reverse course. Is this true? Any suggestions on how to compensate? Any help is always appreciated! Kevin in VT
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not uncommon
Most boats have some of the problem. some models its a lot worse than others. It begins with water flow over the rudder. In forward lots of water velosity is going over the rudders surfaces. In reverse this is not so. at least untill you get moving. so what happens is the rotating propellor kicks the stern over, depending on the shaft rotation it can be either way. It does it in forward too! If you look very closely when you put it in forward and give it some throttle it will kick a bit untill it gets going. not as much as in reverse. what you have to do is learn wich way it will go and make your approaches accordingly. I have two boats. both kick in opposite directions.
Most boats have some of the problem. some models its a lot worse than others. It begins with water flow over the rudder. In forward lots of water velosity is going over the rudders surfaces. In reverse this is not so. at least untill you get moving. so what happens is the rotating propellor kicks the stern over, depending on the shaft rotation it can be either way. It does it in forward too! If you look very closely when you put it in forward and give it some throttle it will kick a bit untill it gets going. not as much as in reverse. what you have to do is learn wich way it will go and make your approaches accordingly. I have two boats. both kick in opposite directions.
Don't have it
I too have the same vintage H27. She doesn't seem to display the behavior you discribe. She isn't very responsive at first in reverse, but if I start with the rudder centered shw'll turn which ever way I choose. How high are you reving your engine? I have mine very low.
I too have the same vintage H27. She doesn't seem to display the behavior you discribe. She isn't very responsive at first in reverse, but if I start with the rudder centered shw'll turn which ever way I choose. How high are you reving your engine? I have mine very low.
All inboards have prop walk!
Some more, some less, according to propeller and mounting configuration. Caused by the higher pressure on the lower blades, and the angle of the shaft into the water, it pulls your stern the same way in reverse as it pushes your bow in forward (port in both cases on your boat and mine.) Check the archives for lengthy discussions on the subject. Sexier prop design is about the only action said to decrease the affect. Most of us learn how to work with it - or around it, depending on the maneuvering requirements of the moment. David Lady Lillie
Some more, some less, according to propeller and mounting configuration. Caused by the higher pressure on the lower blades, and the angle of the shaft into the water, it pulls your stern the same way in reverse as it pushes your bow in forward (port in both cases on your boat and mine.) Check the archives for lengthy discussions on the subject. Sexier prop design is about the only action said to decrease the affect. Most of us learn how to work with it - or around it, depending on the maneuvering requirements of the moment. David Lady Lillie
Prop walk is a great thing!
Use it or loose it! Prop walk is evident on ALL single prop boats. In fact it is quite an advantage. On twin screws you can actually get the boat to "walk" sideways to the dock by putting one in forward and the other in reverse. A practice used everyday. Now.... you have to go practice. In constricted waters, you can put the rudder full right over, don't move it, shift quickly, it won't hurt the transmission, quickly from forward to reverse and keep repeating. The boat will pivot on it's keel, and you can make a 360 cirlce in the length of your boat. Trust me it works!!!! When reversing like the previous post stated, must have water moving past the rudder. Remember, when you initially put to reverse, there is no water over the rudder. So the boat will walk to port, until you get some motion. But be warned, if you have the rudder full over to compensate, it is now in a stalled configuration, and it will keep the prop walking. You may have to give yourself 100 feet to get it going in a straight line. It will get better with practice and preparation. Advantage. Think about it. You now know your stern kicks to port, common. Your coming to the gas pump at about a 30 degree angle, on your port side. You have motion forward. About 15 feet from the dock you put to reverse with a good throttle. The boat will stop on a dime, remember reverse is your brake. The boat stops 5 feet from dock, and with the increase in reverse for a few seconds, the stern kicks to port, and poof! you just parallel parked your boat with accuracy, efficiency, and looked darn good doing it! Come on... go practice, then get back to us later with your results! I would spend at least an hour in reverse!!!! good luck, have fun, boat safe, and know and understand your boat!!!
Use it or loose it! Prop walk is evident on ALL single prop boats. In fact it is quite an advantage. On twin screws you can actually get the boat to "walk" sideways to the dock by putting one in forward and the other in reverse. A practice used everyday. Now.... you have to go practice. In constricted waters, you can put the rudder full right over, don't move it, shift quickly, it won't hurt the transmission, quickly from forward to reverse and keep repeating. The boat will pivot on it's keel, and you can make a 360 cirlce in the length of your boat. Trust me it works!!!! When reversing like the previous post stated, must have water moving past the rudder. Remember, when you initially put to reverse, there is no water over the rudder. So the boat will walk to port, until you get some motion. But be warned, if you have the rudder full over to compensate, it is now in a stalled configuration, and it will keep the prop walking. You may have to give yourself 100 feet to get it going in a straight line. It will get better with practice and preparation. Advantage. Think about it. You now know your stern kicks to port, common. Your coming to the gas pump at about a 30 degree angle, on your port side. You have motion forward. About 15 feet from the dock you put to reverse with a good throttle. The boat will stop on a dime, remember reverse is your brake. The boat stops 5 feet from dock, and with the increase in reverse for a few seconds, the stern kicks to port, and poof! you just parallel parked your boat with accuracy, efficiency, and looked darn good doing it! Come on... go practice, then get back to us later with your results! I would spend at least an hour in reverse!!!! good luck, have fun, boat safe, and know and understand your boat!!!
This is all great until the wind blows
Sure, as Bryan and others mentioned prop walk is a great thing and we do use it to advantage--sometimes. But the other half the time the wind is blowing and pushing the bow around the wrong way, etc. etc. This all makes for exciting boating, maneuvering in and around crowded docks on a Saturday afternoon in July with a bunch of kibitzers watching. I would like to see Bryan 360 circle pivot our Hunter 30-T in the length of its keel with the typical Lake Ontario afternoon 20-25 kts blowing across our crowded marina. (I don't think they have much wind in Deltaville.)
Sure, as Bryan and others mentioned prop walk is a great thing and we do use it to advantage--sometimes. But the other half the time the wind is blowing and pushing the bow around the wrong way, etc. etc. This all makes for exciting boating, maneuvering in and around crowded docks on a Saturday afternoon in July with a bunch of kibitzers watching. I would like to see Bryan 360 circle pivot our Hunter 30-T in the length of its keel with the typical Lake Ontario afternoon 20-25 kts blowing across our crowded marina. (I don't think they have much wind in Deltaville.)
Allow me to restate
The asymetrical effect of a spinning shaft and prop do not significantly effect my ships capability to be steered where the captain sees fit.
The asymetrical effect of a spinning shaft and prop do not significantly effect my ships capability to be steered where the captain sees fit.
Wind can't be ignored
Steve's right about the wind. With a twenty knot wind not many would be doing 360s in a marina. While a spinning shaft doesn't bother me, a stiff wind must be taken very seriously.
Steve's right about the wind. With a twenty knot wind not many would be doing 360s in a marina. While a spinning shaft doesn't bother me, a stiff wind must be taken very seriously.
OK, Steve.
Steve, Come on,... the point was the practicing of the manuevers and becoming familiar with "your" boat, and that it is normal for what Kevin was experiencing. We all know things change. You have to get out there and get the feel for your boat in different conditions. And of course you learn every time. And if you practice in those conditions, you are less likely to speak to your insurance agent the next day, when you really need those skills. Of course, wind is very critical, but if you can't put your boat where you want when you want in the calm, you'll be all over the place in the blow. I just suggest practicing backwards driving more than we normally do, which is once a day. The question was why the stern kicks to port, not all the factors involved in backing! Although we can start that forum if you wish. Safe boating
Steve, Come on,... the point was the practicing of the manuevers and becoming familiar with "your" boat, and that it is normal for what Kevin was experiencing. We all know things change. You have to get out there and get the feel for your boat in different conditions. And of course you learn every time. And if you practice in those conditions, you are less likely to speak to your insurance agent the next day, when you really need those skills. Of course, wind is very critical, but if you can't put your boat where you want when you want in the calm, you'll be all over the place in the blow. I just suggest practicing backwards driving more than we normally do, which is once a day. The question was why the stern kicks to port, not all the factors involved in backing! Although we can start that forum if you wish. Safe boating
Likewise
I also have wicked port prop walk on my 1984 H-27... You just have to adjust for it . If you start in reverse with the rudder turned to port, it will enable you to get better control quicker, but you need some space to do it. Like one of the other readers said'' You have to have flow over the rudder', so if you start with the rudder turned in the direction of the walk, then right off you'll get the flow, and just turn back to starboard.
I also have wicked port prop walk on my 1984 H-27... You just have to adjust for it . If you start in reverse with the rudder turned to port, it will enable you to get better control quicker, but you need some space to do it. Like one of the other readers said'' You have to have flow over the rudder', so if you start with the rudder turned in the direction of the walk, then right off you'll get the flow, and just turn back to starboard.
Prop walk
Kevin; Prop walk can be used to advantage but, as stated, A cross wind can have adverse affects on using it. As Bryan stated, go into clear water with no one around, put the engine in reverse, and practice. Even when you get the hang of it, there will be situations that steepen the learning curve. So remember rule #1 in boating; "Don't hit anything". As for anchoring, when you come into the wind, stop, then start going backwards, with the wind blowing the bow will fall off before you get steerage. What I do is to let out 2 to 1 scope then belay the rode untill the anchor has enough drag on the bottom to turn the bow back into the wind. With the engine in reverse slowly let out the rode keeping the bow to wind while the engine can now pull the boat back straight. when the correct scope has been let out, belay the rode and allow the engine power to set the anchor properly. Sometimes, if the wind is really strong, I just let out the proper scope before belaying the rode and let the wind do the work untill the bow is into the wind and then rev the engine in reverse to set the anchor. It works for me but in boating, as we all know, everytime is different so you will always be experimenting to see what works best for you. And when you seem to get it right, Murphy changes the rules. Mac 1984 H31
Kevin; Prop walk can be used to advantage but, as stated, A cross wind can have adverse affects on using it. As Bryan stated, go into clear water with no one around, put the engine in reverse, and practice. Even when you get the hang of it, there will be situations that steepen the learning curve. So remember rule #1 in boating; "Don't hit anything". As for anchoring, when you come into the wind, stop, then start going backwards, with the wind blowing the bow will fall off before you get steerage. What I do is to let out 2 to 1 scope then belay the rode untill the anchor has enough drag on the bottom to turn the bow back into the wind. With the engine in reverse slowly let out the rode keeping the bow to wind while the engine can now pull the boat back straight. when the correct scope has been let out, belay the rode and allow the engine power to set the anchor properly. Sometimes, if the wind is really strong, I just let out the proper scope before belaying the rode and let the wind do the work untill the bow is into the wind and then rev the engine in reverse to set the anchor. It works for me but in boating, as we all know, everytime is different so you will always be experimenting to see what works best for you. And when you seem to get it right, Murphy changes the rules. Mac 1984 H31
Thanks!
Hey! Thanks for all the help and input! I read the first 4 replies prior to leaving on my second leg of cruising Lake Champlain. They helped a great deal. The tip of starting with rudder to port to avoid stall will have to be used next time. I guess I fell right into this trap. But, I thought it was because the wife wasn't letting out the rode that caused the stall. Obviously anchoring and backing up to set anchor was one of our biggest learning tasks these past two trips. Our first try, we must of looked like a couple of stressed land-loving bunglers. Communication and plan of attack was key. Also, knowing how to go back straight! We got much better the next few times, and actually could at least *look* like we knew what we were doing. I'm still not quite there, but will be practicing the next time out. Again, thanks all! Kevin
Hey! Thanks for all the help and input! I read the first 4 replies prior to leaving on my second leg of cruising Lake Champlain. They helped a great deal. The tip of starting with rudder to port to avoid stall will have to be used next time. I guess I fell right into this trap. But, I thought it was because the wife wasn't letting out the rode that caused the stall. Obviously anchoring and backing up to set anchor was one of our biggest learning tasks these past two trips. Our first try, we must of looked like a couple of stressed land-loving bunglers. Communication and plan of attack was key. Also, knowing how to go back straight! We got much better the next few times, and actually could at least *look* like we knew what we were doing. I'm still not quite there, but will be practicing the next time out. Again, thanks all! Kevin
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