I think I caught it in time.... the old polyurethane varnish has lost some of its luster, but it is in pretty good shape. How much do I need to sand to prep the surface for refinishing? Not all the way to the wood, I hope. What's an appropriate grit? Can I use my palm sander, or should I do it by hand? Thanks for any advice... Paul
Revarnishing Cabin Sole
- Thread starter Paul McGhee
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What I Do
I just use a fine (150) on my palm sander but I wipe it with acetone first to get off oil, etc. I let it dry before sanding. Be sure to wipe off any dust et al. Mask well, or better, remove any panels you can. I use Helmsman Poly Spar Varnish, available at your hardware in gloss, semi or matt. It is very tough, flows well, spot repairs well and has a UV inhibitor. It has a slight amber cast like traditional varnish. It is also less that Z-Spar etc. Rick D. PS: leave yourself an exit. Don't ask how I know...
I just use a fine (150) on my palm sander but I wipe it with acetone first to get off oil, etc. I let it dry before sanding. Be sure to wipe off any dust et al. Mask well, or better, remove any panels you can. I use Helmsman Poly Spar Varnish, available at your hardware in gloss, semi or matt. It is very tough, flows well, spot repairs well and has a UV inhibitor. It has a slight amber cast like traditional varnish. It is also less that Z-Spar etc. Rick D. PS: leave yourself an exit. Don't ask how I know...
Cabin Sole
I just replaced all the cabin soles in my 36 Catalina and used a new product called Ultimate Cabin sole (see link) It works great and looks even better.
I just replaced all the cabin soles in my 36 Catalina and used a new product called Ultimate Cabin sole (see link) It works great and looks even better.
Why replace?
Thanks for the tips... Why did you replace your sole? I take it was beyond rescue from the sander and varnish. Did it rot from below? I have removed mine, and the unprotected undersides look pretty ugly. I was thinking maybe a coat or two of epoxy on the bottom would help them fight the moisture from underneath.
Thanks for the tips... Why did you replace your sole? I take it was beyond rescue from the sander and varnish. Did it rot from below? I have removed mine, and the unprotected undersides look pretty ugly. I was thinking maybe a coat or two of epoxy on the bottom would help them fight the moisture from underneath.
Epoxy Sealer
Paul, The idea of using epoxy as a sealer for the bottom is a very good one. You can also use it for the first coat on the top, just be sure to wash with soap and water before sanding for the finish coats. You may even want to put one or two coats of finish on the bottom too. I have used this system for my brightwork and it works well. After two coats of epoxy (I use West System), I follow with 5 coats of varnish for outside(I use Epifane's). Inside use any good exterior varnish for the sole. Ellis s/v Cynara '80 Lancer 30
Paul, The idea of using epoxy as a sealer for the bottom is a very good one. You can also use it for the first coat on the top, just be sure to wash with soap and water before sanding for the finish coats. You may even want to put one or two coats of finish on the bottom too. I have used this system for my brightwork and it works well. After two coats of epoxy (I use West System), I follow with 5 coats of varnish for outside(I use Epifane's). Inside use any good exterior varnish for the sole. Ellis s/v Cynara '80 Lancer 30
Done the job yet, Paul?
I've been trying to varnish everything on our boat and have finished the hand rails and the cabin sole. I used Epifane Rapid Coat because the directions said that you can varnish without sanding between coats, which appealed to me because I don't have much patience for this job. You said that your sole is in pretty good condition. My companionway steps were pretty good, so rather than sanding in preparation, I got this stuff called Easy Liquid Sander from Home Depot. I just applied it last night and then put my first coat of varnish on. It looks pretty good ... way good enough for me. My sole was in deplorable condition because it probably had not been varnished once in 20 years. For that job, I sanded by hand with 100, 150, and 220 grit. They came back to life and looked pretty good when all was done. It took me about 1 to 2 hours sanding by hand because I didn't have shore power or a cordless sander. It wasn't the worst job. The Epifanes Rapid Coat directions say to put on 4 to 5 coats and sanding between coats is not required. I stopped at 3 coats and felt the surface was a little rough, which doesn't bother me because I figure it is less slippery. Last weekend, with a wet floor, the surface gripped fine and looks fine so I am pleased. It is supposed to be good for outside use so I am using it on the handrails and teak trim and am satisfied. The color seems a little dark, but I like it. Where I am sanding in preparation for varnish, I have been finishing with 220 grit ... it feels best to me.
I've been trying to varnish everything on our boat and have finished the hand rails and the cabin sole. I used Epifane Rapid Coat because the directions said that you can varnish without sanding between coats, which appealed to me because I don't have much patience for this job. You said that your sole is in pretty good condition. My companionway steps were pretty good, so rather than sanding in preparation, I got this stuff called Easy Liquid Sander from Home Depot. I just applied it last night and then put my first coat of varnish on. It looks pretty good ... way good enough for me. My sole was in deplorable condition because it probably had not been varnished once in 20 years. For that job, I sanded by hand with 100, 150, and 220 grit. They came back to life and looked pretty good when all was done. It took me about 1 to 2 hours sanding by hand because I didn't have shore power or a cordless sander. It wasn't the worst job. The Epifanes Rapid Coat directions say to put on 4 to 5 coats and sanding between coats is not required. I stopped at 3 coats and felt the surface was a little rough, which doesn't bother me because I figure it is less slippery. Last weekend, with a wet floor, the surface gripped fine and looks fine so I am pleased. It is supposed to be good for outside use so I am using it on the handrails and teak trim and am satisfied. The color seems a little dark, but I like it. Where I am sanding in preparation for varnish, I have been finishing with 220 grit ... it feels best to me.
Not yet...
My boat is too far away to work on it on the weeknights, so it'll have to wait until the weekend. Everyone loves Epiphanes, but I was thinking about using a clear polyurethane, only because I have holly in my floors, and I have read that clear varnish looks better. I think Epiphanes varieties all have some natural amber color. I don't mind sanding if all I have to do is scuff the surface a little. What I'm worried about is drying time between coats. I don't want this to be a seven-day project. Exterior is next (sigh). At least I only have to do the cabin sole every few years. Paul
My boat is too far away to work on it on the weeknights, so it'll have to wait until the weekend. Everyone loves Epiphanes, but I was thinking about using a clear polyurethane, only because I have holly in my floors, and I have read that clear varnish looks better. I think Epiphanes varieties all have some natural amber color. I don't mind sanding if all I have to do is scuff the surface a little. What I'm worried about is drying time between coats. I don't want this to be a seven-day project. Exterior is next (sigh). At least I only have to do the cabin sole every few years. Paul
Ultimate Sole System
Ultimate Sole System, Sherborn MA., has a new (I think) solution. A clear shiny durable finish that is NOT SLIPPERY. Can sand with their Sand oOf, then apply coats of finish. Go for it. Your dividend will be no slipping when wet.
Ultimate Sole System, Sherborn MA., has a new (I think) solution. A clear shiny durable finish that is NOT SLIPPERY. Can sand with their Sand oOf, then apply coats of finish. Go for it. Your dividend will be no slipping when wet.
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