Restoring An Oxidized Hull

[GeneraiT001]

Hi,
Been looking at YouTube videos on this but haven't found much of use. I was told by someone to use "McGuires" on it?

I'm guessing the steps would be to:

A) power wash to remove loose dirt/grime then wipe dry;
B) tape waterline;
C) apply anti oxidizer with a buffer of some sort and wool cloth?;
D) more buffing; and
E) finally wax with a buffer?

If thats the process can you recommend appropriate products as well as a good buffer and wool buffer thingies

Thanks

 

[kappykaplan]

Check out this post:

Tips For A Great Buff & Wax

Buff Polish & Wax Try these products (for Gel-Coat only not intended for Awlgrip) The Cliff Note Version: Steps: #1-Clean the hull with an acid base cleaner like FSR, oxalic acid or On & Off to remove rust & tannin staining. (only if necessary) #2-Wet Sand by hand 600 (if real bad)...

forums.sailboatowners.com

 

[GeneraiT001]

Check out this post:

Tips For A Great Buff & Wax

Buff Polish & Wax Try these products (for Gel-Coat only not intended for Awlgrip) The Cliff Note Version: Steps: #1-Clean the hull with an acid base cleaner like FSR, oxalic acid or On & Off to remove rust & tannin staining. (only if necessary) #2-Wet Sand by hand 600 (if real bad)...

forums.sailboatowners.com

Thanks!!

 

[jssailem]

If the Gelcoat is oxidized but still present, then the recommendation is a light sanding with very Fine sand paper then compound and polish. If the gelcoat has already been burned through then the direction is to prep for paint.

 

[Davidasailor26]

Check out this post:

Tips For A Great Buff & Wax

Buff Polish & Wax Try these products (for Gel-Coat only not intended for Awlgrip) The Cliff Note Version: Steps: #1-Clean the hull with an acid base cleaner like FSR, oxalic acid or On & Off to remove rust & tannin staining. (only if necessary) #2-Wet Sand by hand 600 (if real bad)...

forums.sailboatowners.com

This is the authoritative guide which I and several others here have followed with great success.

 

[shemandr]

Remember that you don't need a great buff and wax. You need an showable buff and wax. Depending on the oxidation level a succession of compounds, followed by a carnauba waxing will go a long way to make the boat present well. For topsides this would be maybe as little as two work days. The deck would take longer due to having to tape off non-skid and the irregular shapes. Still I did my Mark 25 cockpit with Maguire Fiberglass Restorer in about 8 hours to a notably improved state.
If you don't want to diy you can have a detailer do it for far less than painting. Look for an automotive guy - not the marine contractors. You'll lose control of the product used but the result will still show better.
I would go light on the power washer. An hour with a brush and detergent is enough to prep a surface for compounding. Maybe a wipe down with Acetone to remove previous wax.