Restoring a 71 Mac Venture 21 got a few ???

[ChockFullOnuts222]

No, you shouldn't have to cut anything. You should be able to get at it from the inside. My '72 doesn't have a hull liner, so I wouldn't think that your '71 would have one in the way, either. The plywood doesn't have to be the full height of the transom, just a little larger than the base of the motor mount.

Although, taking another look at your pictures, you have a pretty big motor mount compared to others out there. Looks a lot more substantial than what I have on my Mac 25. It seems to take up most of the transom already, in the picture. On the water, you'd probably be fine leaving it as-is. It's just trailering with the motor installed that could conceivably be a problem. But even then, you might be okay with such a large footprint at the mount's base.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

thanks for the input.

When i pull the motor mount down and put a steady weight on it i get some flex back and forth from the stern.

If this is normal i won't worry about it.

After cleaning the interior last night it looks like i might be able to crawl back there. So I might be able to beef it up by crawling back there and gluing up a piece or two to beef it up.

If i have to cut i'll leave it as is.

Can someone get me some detailed pics of their boat?

I need some pics of the underside of the sliding top hatch, i need to see how it attaches to the sliders.

I also need some pics of the teak for the cabin door and how it's held together.

I have one large fiberglass cabin door and then a bunch of teak all taken apart and i'm not sure how it goes.

The last one is the keel winch mount. My rusty old winch is just laying on the floor. I want to be able to see how i need to re mount mine. I'm going to try to pick up a new one (proper brake winch) from northern this weekend.

Until i get this thing off the trailer i can't do the keel so i'm going to start with the interior. Stripping everything, priming, painting and re-teaking. Then i'll start with the topside.

Last but not least i'll do the hull and that is when i'll remove and re-finish the keel.

Will normal run of the line mutli purpose fiberglass epoxy resin work for the teak or do i need special marine resin to re finish it?

 

[ChockFullOnuts222]

I've never heard of someone using epoxy resin on teak before. While it will be a permanent way to seal the wood, you might run a risk of ruining the look of it (if you're concerned about how it looks). UV damage will cloud up the appearance of the resin over time, unless you get a UV resistant resin. I don't know if epoxy resin will crack the way polyester resin will. There are a few options with non-resin products. If the wood is still in good shape and is bare of any varnish, you can use teak oil. If you want a glossy finish that isn't expensive, you can use Spar urethane. The only problem with Spar urethane is that it gets damaged by UV; you'll have to sand and re-apply it every season or two unless the boat is stored under a roof whenever you're not using it. Lastly, you can get a marine varnish that has the UV protection built in. It will definitely last a lot longer than regular non-UV resistant finishes.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

i'll pick up some spar this weekend, they sell it at home depot so it will be convient from me to get.

Any suggestions on the interior paint? i'm going to tackle that job first.

I'll be sanding off all the old paint and putting about 2 coats of primer on her. I need suggestions on what type of primer.

Then for paint i want to go with a bright mildew/mold resistant paint.

Once interior is done i'll move onto the topside. From the teak up i'll be using rustoleum topside paint. All the textured areas have good paint, no cracking. All the white parts are cracking. I'll sand all the paint down until i see no cracking left and rough up the textured areas very well (textured areas didn't even come loose in with the pressure washer)

I'll spray everything with a few coats of white topside then mask off the textured areas and roll them with a final couple coats of whatever color i choose.

as for the bottom coat i thought about doing the teak down in all one color bottom coat. Are there any advantages to painting the waterline a different color or giving her a strip at the water line?

 

[ChockFullOnuts222]

For interior paint, I used Interlux brightside paint on my boat. It's durable and glossy, easy to clean. 2 quarts did the whole thing. The downside is that it's not cheap paint. Not the most expensive, but not pocket change, either.

I didn't use a primer, so I can't help you there. I sanded my walls/ceiling and painted right over them. 3 years later, nothing is cracking or peeling. If you use a primer, though, you may want to google that one if no one here has any suggestions. I don't know if generic primer will work well with this job.

I don't recommend rustoleum for the topside paint. I've used flat white rustoleum to touch up spots on my topside, and all of those spots have to be touched up every year. The sun and elements turns the white paint gray, and it wears off the deck quickly in traffic areas. Glossy rustoleum lasts longer, but also takes a very long time to cure to a rock-hard finish. Even when it is try to the touch, the paint stays soft (especially in hot, humid conditions) for as long as weeks, and has a tendency to stick to things. Walk on it, and you might leave an imprint of your shoe tread. Things that you leave on deck out in the sun can easily leave imprints in the paint and/or stick to it. You might want to consider spending the money on a real marine topside paint, if you want your finish to last.

The water line is there for cosmetic purposes as well as giving you a reference of where the boat sits when in the water. It can be a good indicator for telling how much weight you have on board when loaded with passengers and equipment, but it's not absolutely necessary to have to sail.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

bump for pics of other venture 21 owners rigging and hatch teek...also need pics of keel winch mounting.

 

[skipperkey]

venture 21

what does the title say? if you don't have a title you probably shouldn't put money into the boat. I removed my keel. i built a sled out of 2x4's and an old wood palate. through bolt upright cheek pieces to make sure the keel is held firmly and can't flip sideways. these things are heavy and you should be careful; like handling a car engine. by the way, i have a mac/venture 22 swing keel available if anyone needs one. good luck. Mark in Cleveland. bsho.b pieces

just wanted to make sure this is a venture 21

i found some emblems that have a W/21 on them


I will be removing keel first thing when i get a cradle made for her.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

the stuff to make her legal for water is almost finished up. Getting the boat from a non titeling state really makes that process easy.

this boat came from Georgia. Georgia does not require titles for boats. Before that it was in Tennesee, also no titles required for that state so for me to issue a title in my state all i need is a South Carolina title application (which i have already filled out) and a hand written letter in ink stating that the previous owner from Georgia has sold the boat to me. Which i got when i purchased the boat. It's all been notrarized and ready to be sent into the DNR. I'm just waiting until i'm ready to put her in the water before i date and send in the papers. I'm allowed to sail 60 days on just the dated application. I wont' be dating any papers until the day i'm ready to put the boat in the water. Aiming to have all the work done in two weeks.

After close examination of the keel it looks as though the only seperation is about a 12 inch area by about 6 inch area. Should be pretty easy work to remove everything and blast her clean.

If i need a new one fabricating a replacement will not be much of an issue. I have a comeplete old one to go by. Like i said before i have a few slabs of 1/2" or 3/4" steel i can use to make a new one....i have enough material to make a small fleet of keels. I even have access the the forklifts and scale to make sure it weighs the same

I have not been able to fully drop the keel as of yet. I'm doing all the topside/cabin painting in my back yard then hauling her to my dads place where i'll blace the boat on some A frames and get her up off the ground and start the bottom coat. Have few places the size of a dime i need to patch up. I"m trying to get as much painting as possible done here at the house where it's more convient for me to work on her a little very day. I'm still waiting on the HOA to complain about a boat in the back yard.

once it's at my paretns place i'll be able to drop the keel for a closer examination. As of now i can only drop it as far as the trailer will let me.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

I will be needing a full set of sails...if anyone come across a used set of Venture 21 sails i need some.

I still need some pics of how people have their keel winch mounted in the cock pit.

I also need some pics of how the teak on the hatch door is held together and how the sliding hatch attaches to the top of the boat.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

i'm wanting to attach the boom to my mast to measure for sails.

Does anyne have any close up pics of how the boom attaches to the mast?

 

[Lost Horizon]

Those pictures look so surreal, like a Norman Rockwell Painting....regarding the rigging, if you havent already, I would try and sort it out, and raise that mast to see how it goes. You can order rigging from West Marine (you need measurements), but on the early 80's Macs I've had, the original rigging has survived pretty well. Stainless doesn't seem to weather much to me (but I live in SoCal). Just look for broken strands. The only single point of failure is the forestay (wire in front), you can use a halyard (rope) attached to the bow temporarily to back that up while you raise the mast.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

still have not taken pics of the restoration process.

I've done the top coat and about 90% of the cabin painting.

Got my solar powered fan working in the v-berth.

re-enforced all the chainplates with plywood with 2 sheets of fiberglass laidover it.

The only wood core on this boat is on the topside of the cabin and V-berth.

I even went back and re enforced all the backing of cleats with plywood.

I'm working on putting a few pieces of remaining hardware back on today and if weather permits i'll get the bottom smoothed out nicely so i can put on a coat or two of epoxy paint before going over it with 2-3 coats of marine bottom coat paint.

I still need to pick up some cushions sides/v berths as well as some low grade budget electronics like a VHF, LED lights to replace all out dated lights that i really don't trust.

I need a search light, cabin/cock pit lights.

Run all new wiring.

build a waste tank as well as a water storage tank.

any recomendations for cheap GPS options or chart plotters?

I'm completey new to sailing but would like to set her up for fair weather costal/bay sailing. Until i'm ready i'll be sticking to local lakes.

I'm hoping to have her done by this time next month for our trip to the beach.

It's hard to find sailing lessons here in my area but down there i'll have plenty of options.

 

[Smithy]

If you don't know how to sail yet, I'm not sure a chartplotter is your priority. I would suggest just getting out there and getting some local experience. Figure out how the boat moves, and how it dances with mother nature. Have a way back if the wind fails.

Eyes down on electronics means you're not watching where you're going...

Good luck, sounds like you're getting a lot done on her. These are awesome small boats.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

i do alot of kayaking as well so a gps/chartplotter (hand held) has been on the to buy list much longer than the sailboat has been around. I don't get to go on many costal fishing trips but when i do fishing/weather/current conditions can lead to me ending up a few miles away from my orginal starting point. I've never needed one in the past but i would rather have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.

got a good section of the bottom of the boat coated with fiberglass jelly to take out all the scuffs/dips i had to put in her to get all the bad spots out of what remained of the gelcoat.

Hopefully i can pick up another can and get the remaining coats on there tonight so i can start on the bottom paint next weekend.


I have a question on boat motors. I have a spring loaded motor mount that bolts on the back of my boat. Since this lowers the motor much lower than that of a motor that bolts directly onto the back of a sailboat do i really need a long shaft motor?

It's much easier for me to find a used/not working 4-5hp engine from an old jon boat/canoe in my area than it is to find a sailboat long shaft motor of any condition.


So far the work on this boat has been much easier than expected. I did not think fiberglass work would be so easy.

Just takes much longer than anticipated. I was hoping to already have this thing floating by now!

 

[Smithy]

Short shaft will work fine for your setup.

Didn't mean to be harsh about my earlier comment, there's just a lot going on in the cockpit for a new sailor. Gadgetry can distract from that. No judgement intended.

Good luck!

 

[oldiesrocker2001]

You shouldn't need to do that, I think. I reinforced my motor mount with 1/2 " plywood(epoxied, of course) and jockeyed it in thru the lazarette hatch. I took out some of the foam flotation to get it in there and then replaced it. I also used fender washers over the bolt holes to spread the load over a wider area per bolt.

 

[timebandit]

Will this picture help some?

thanks for the input.

When i pull the motor mount down and put a steady weight on it i get some flex back and forth from the stern.

If this is normal i won't worry about it.

After cleaning the interior last night it looks like i might be able to crawl back there. So I might be able to beef it up by crawling back there and gluing up a piece or two to beef it up.

If i have to cut i'll leave it as is.

Can someone get me some detailed pics of their boat?

I need some pics of the underside of the sliding top hatch, i need to see how it attaches to the sliders.

I also need some pics of the teak for the cabin door and how it's held together.

I have one large fiberglass cabin door and then a bunch of teak all taken apart and i'm not sure how it goes.

The last one is the keel winch mount. My rusty old winch is just laying on the floor. I want to be able to see how i need to re mount mine. I'm going to try to pick up a new one (proper brake winch) from northern this weekend.

Until i get this thing off the trailer i can't do the keel so i'm going to start with the interior. Stripping everything, priming, painting and re-teaking. Then i'll start with the topside.

Last but not least i'll do the hull and that is when i'll remove and re-finish the keel.

Will normal run of the line mutli purpose fiberglass epoxy resin work for the teak or do i need special marine resin to re finish it?

 

[dohcdelsol93]

thank you for the pic, it does help with how the wood works to hold the hatch in the cockpit area.