restoring 1974 cal 3-30

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william moody

I am restoring my 3-30 after she was washed ashore during hurricane Katrina,I would like to meet other owners who I could talk with and compare notes with. I have owned and sailed this boat for 14 years, it is the only boat I have ever owned and I am just a week end sailor who has a lot to learn and I need advice from people who know my boat. There are no other 3-30s in this area that I know of. I do know that my boat was used for racing and that the previous owner was a member of the New Orleans Yacht club but i have not been able to locate him. My boat did not have any hull or rudder damage, there were 4 stanchions that were ripped off taking about six inches of deck with each stanchion and at the stern of my boat the top cap on each side on the outer side has a 14 to 16 inch crack. when i did a bottom job about 7 years ago I had the gel coat shaved and applied interlucs 1000 and 2000 system and I have some small paint blisters but alot of them, should I repaint them with the interluc system agin a after fairing them out with a taper or is there a better way, also my rudder is loose and needs reseating need advice. my name is cal and when I got the boat I was going to rename it cal's cal but I liked the old name so much I kept it HUSH PUPPY
 
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Preferred_Customer@yahoo.com

another cal 3030 owner

I also own a Cal 3-30. I'll be happy to lend any moral support you need for your project. Preferred_Customer@yahoo.com FYI You might try the Yahoo group 'cal_boats' as there are several very knowledgeable cal people on this list.
 
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Ben Cuker

Cal 3-30 1976 owner

Cal, some thoughts on reparing your Cal-3-30. I have one, Callinectes, 1976 boat that I've owned and raced since 1995. The core under the stantion bases on mine had rotted out. This is how I reparied mine, and it should work fine for you. Clean out any lose, wet core around the area. Duct tape the headliner. Place a few layers of glass on the bottom of the hole, wet with epoxy, then create a new core by pourning a mix of epoxy and colodial silica. Do this in two or three pours, to prevent massive heat build-up as it kicks. Then top off with several layers of glass, wet out and if you want, finish with gelcoat. You will have to sand the area of the deck flat. Then use the stantion bases to drill holes, bed with calk, and bolt through a backing block. I replaced the SS backing plates with inch thick hard wood blocks to distribute the load better. The rudder post-fit fix is described by West in their booklet. I did it on a Cal 25, and it was done on my 3-30 before I got it. Drop the rudder out of the boat, and stow it upside down to drain. Use acetone or other solvent to clean the rudder post and glass tube. It must be VERY clean. Drill several wholes in the side of the tube, sized to accpet the nipple of a large syringe. Tripple wax the post and reinstall in the boat. Use some very thin wood shims to center the post in the tube. Place the shims in from the top of the tube. Mix-up west epoxy with graphite powder. West sells it or use the tubes sold in hardware stores to put in locks. It should be a creamy mix. Be sure to tiglthy wrape strands of rag with tape at bottom of the tube to keep the epoxy mix in the tube, and mask the rudder incase some drips out any way. Inject in the lowest hole, tape closed, and do the same for the next two holes as you move up. Let the epoxy cure overnight. The next day put the tiller back on and berak the rudder free in the tube. Keep working it back and forth till it goes smoothly. Drop the rudder back out again, grease the shaft and reinstall. That fix should hold 10 years or more. Ben
 
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