reseating teak

[Syversens]

Hey all, I'm having problems with my teak loosening again. This spring I tried to clean up the silicone under each slat and glued them down again and it looked ok but now the same slats are loose again. I had a look at the beneteau site and they recommended drilling, then gluing and plugging with teak in the holes.... This seems to be a hard way to do it but my way was obviously too easy. I also been thinking of taking all the teak off the loose seats and reseating them but thats probably a ton of silicone and messy. Anyone have experience with this ? the worst seat is about 2-3 slats with 2-3 inches on each piece... others just have one slat...

thanks !

 

[DougM]

Tried to respond to this one before...couldn't get it to post. Having similar problems with my B323. The caulking around the perimeter of the teak seats. separates and lets water under the wood. Somebody sits on it, the water oozes out, and they get a wet bottom.

If anybody knows a way to take the seat surfaces off the fiberglass without wrecking them, and has a surefire way of re-bedding them with out drilling holes, I would certainly be interested.

 

[Jim Innes]

Beneteau recommends this:

Remove 3 cm of black silicone in at least in 2 places at the level of the unglued area (eventually more depending on the unglued surface).
Drill 1/16” holes just through the teak approximately 1” a part in the area of removed silicone.
Blow compressed air to remove water.
Through the 1/16” holes inject polyurethane glue {3M 5200}.
Push down the teak slats. You can screw the slats down with some small screws and cover with a teak bungs. You will need to apply heavy weight for a minimum of 24 / 36 hours.
Reapply black silicone.

Maybe some modification of the above process would be your best option.

 

[Murray16764]

I have the same problem (B352). I am going to remove my two locker covers (they are in the worst condition) and work on them at home over the winter. I plan to remove the black caulking in the problem areas, use epoxy to glue the slats down (clamp them down) and than replace the black caulking (5200). The finishing touch is a coat of ceatol. I hope it works. The seats are very difficult to fix when the boat is in on the water - it is hard to keep dry, clamp, etc etc...

Murray

 

[DougM]

That would be nice if all the seats would actually come off, I only have one that is removable and it isn't the problem. It appears that at least on my boat, the wood seating surfaces are grooved sheet stock made to look like individual slats simply by caulking the routed grooves. The only functional caulking appears to be the perimeter.

Why the preference for Cetol as a finish? Doesn't that stuff turn Orange? It doesn't seem to last either. What are the advantages?

 

[Murray16764]

Doug, you can get Cetol in a natural finish now, so it will not turn the wood orange like the original product. I like to use Cetol, as it is easy to apply, reapply and repair. It has some flex and allows the wood to breath. It is more like a stain than varish. It is holding up very well on my seats over two seasons and they get jumped on, stepped on and rained on fairly often. I would recommend Cetol, but you have to get the old finish off. I used paint remover and brass wool to get the old finish off - don't use steel wool - little particals will break off and you'll get rust stains all over the place - not good. Anyway, that is my two cents worth of advice. Murray