I have several places on my boat (cockpit deck plate and coach roof where bimini supports were mounted) that the screws have been over tightened or otherwise pulled out and the holes have been stripped. It looks and feels like some of the holes have been "sealed" with clear latex caulk. Any advice on filling the holes for reseating the screws?
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Epoxy
Hi Bill: I take a match stick or tooth pick and dab small amounts of epoxy into the holes. Sometimes it takes several applications until the size of the hole decreases and it will hold a screw. I had a couple of these that were repaired this way and they have been holding well. Don't forget to recaulk.
Hi Bill: I take a match stick or tooth pick and dab small amounts of epoxy into the holes. Sometimes it takes several applications until the size of the hole decreases and it will hold a screw. I had a couple of these that were repaired this way and they have been holding well. Don't forget to recaulk.
West Systems
which is an apoxy works well. Depending on the hole size and since you mentioned that the holes have been filled with a puddy. I would re-drill the holes (larger diameter-but don't go overboard)to get the puddy out, then fill holes with the apoxy. It sounds like you plan to remount a bimini top, so when the apoxy is dry, re-drill pilot holes for the screws and mount with new ones. Also, depending how you mix the apoxy you can make an "appoxy puddy" or have a free flowing mix. If it is fluid like- you can use a syrenge a push the apoxy intothe holes-works alot better that a tooth pick. Good Luck.
which is an apoxy works well. Depending on the hole size and since you mentioned that the holes have been filled with a puddy. I would re-drill the holes (larger diameter-but don't go overboard)to get the puddy out, then fill holes with the apoxy. It sounds like you plan to remount a bimini top, so when the apoxy is dry, re-drill pilot holes for the screws and mount with new ones. Also, depending how you mix the apoxy you can make an "appoxy puddy" or have a free flowing mix. If it is fluid like- you can use a syrenge a push the apoxy intothe holes-works alot better that a tooth pick. Good Luck.
Epoxy Stick
I've had really good luck with a stick or "loaf" of epoxy I found at WalMart in the car repair area. I believe it was Bondo brand, and was called Marine Epoxy Stick, or something like that. It's a white stick about four inches long with activator built in. You cut off a piece, knead it, then stick it whereever you need it...even under water. Cosmetically, it's not the greatest, but structurally, the stuff is ideal for plugging holes and cracks. Some gelcoat repair can be applied over top, if necessary for appearance. I'm going to keep a couple of sticks on board just in case of perforation accidents.
I've had really good luck with a stick or "loaf" of epoxy I found at WalMart in the car repair area. I believe it was Bondo brand, and was called Marine Epoxy Stick, or something like that. It's a white stick about four inches long with activator built in. You cut off a piece, knead it, then stick it whereever you need it...even under water. Cosmetically, it's not the greatest, but structurally, the stuff is ideal for plugging holes and cracks. Some gelcoat repair can be applied over top, if necessary for appearance. I'm going to keep a couple of sticks on board just in case of perforation accidents.
marine tex
I believe you are referring to"Marine tex", a fast curing marine epoxy. It mixes into the consistancy of putty and would work very well for this application. Definately fill the holes and start from scratch. DO NOT FROGET to bed the hardware with a polysulfate like life-caulk. Silicone caulks do not last as long and does not form as good a bond asa polysulfate caulk.
I believe you are referring to"Marine tex", a fast curing marine epoxy. It mixes into the consistancy of putty and would work very well for this application. Definately fill the holes and start from scratch. DO NOT FROGET to bed the hardware with a polysulfate like life-caulk. Silicone caulks do not last as long and does not form as good a bond asa polysulfate caulk.
Bimini fastenings
The deck plate can be reattached /w screws, as previous posters have described. A Bimini typically becomes a “handhold” in common use, and should therefor, be considered a “structural” member - for which screws are inadequate fastenings. You need to get to the blind side, & use nuts & bolts c/w back plates. I know, easy for me to say ... Gord
The deck plate can be reattached /w screws, as previous posters have described. A Bimini typically becomes a “handhold” in common use, and should therefor, be considered a “structural” member - for which screws are inadequate fastenings. You need to get to the blind side, & use nuts & bolts c/w back plates. I know, easy for me to say ... Gord
Thanks all and Gord
you are 100% right. I've been too chicken to try and reinforce the area between the coachroof and the headliner. I envision needing a 55 gallon drum of epoxy that I squirt with a syringe into a blind little hole until I have the stuff oozing out of my light fixtures and electrical panel.
you are 100% right. I've been too chicken to try and reinforce the area between the coachroof and the headliner. I envision needing a 55 gallon drum of epoxy that I squirt with a syringe into a blind little hole until I have the stuff oozing out of my light fixtures and electrical panel.
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