Repowering H37C.

[Ed Schenck]

Started the work today guys. Got the water separator, the Racor, and the heat exchanger out of the engine room. Alternator also removed and soaked the bolts at the shaft connector. Some electrical disconnected.Next time I go up the engine comes out. Only mounts, exhaust(already loose), and shaft separation remain. I will replace the water heater, muffler, and all hoses while I am in there.This is something I have been planning since I bought the boat in 1998. It has the smallest of the H37C engines, the 2QM20. I have a very used 3QM30 in my garage. But I am installing a new Yanmar 3YM30. The cost is not significantly different from any of the major brands and that includes Bukh and Vetus. The new "YM" series has everything on the front: oil filter, both water pumps, oil dipstick, etc. It also has a separate drive belt for the seawater pump. The engine is much smaller and 200 pounds lighter. So the regular size port access door should hold me. This is more than just a need for more power. It should also enhance the resale value. Though that will only be important when I am gone and the kids have to deal with it. The 2QM20 is a very good and reliable engine but it just couldn't handle 18000# in Lake Erie six-footers.

 

[Steve Dion]

are you doing the entire job yourself?

Ed:I guess this is what retirement is all about. This is why you retirees never have time to do anything (too many projects).Are you going to do the entire installation yourself or are you sub-contracting part of the process?Dave Wilson (at Hidden Harbor) just had this done when he purchased his H'37C. It is a very nice installation and the engine is very quite. We will be interested in your progress. Good luck.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Hi Steve

How are you and the business? Yep, all by myself. Well except for the heavy in and out. Since I am buying it from the marina they will use the big rack shed forklift to lift and drop.It's pretty simple, especially with all the additional room. I'll add a coupler but should even use the same shaft if I position the mounts correctly. A new prop is in order, a 3-blade Flex-O-Fold. Loved my two-blade folder.There is no optional instrument panel so I will try to adapt my gauges(oil, amp, temp) along with the new buzzers. The new panel has a tach, an hour meter and a four position key switch. One position is an electrical STOP, something I have never had.

 

[Steve Dion]

Sounds like a big project!

Ed:I closed my business in April 2003. A friend of mine took over the software, which they are now marketing and selling. I am now working for the State of Nevada (almost 3 years now).We have purchased a new boat (1994 Hunter Vision 36). It arrived today and will be launched next week. We have a couple of things that we need to do to it, but the boat shows as new.Life is good and sailing season is around the corner. We have our Hunter 31 listed for sale on the HOW site. I expect to have it sold in the next couple of weeks.

 

[Richard McDonald]

Take notes...

Hi Ed, Please take plenty of notes that you can share on issues that may surface with the installation, as I will probably be next. I can't complain about power in 6 footers on lake Michigan with my 2QM20, that's probably because I left the 3 blade fixed pitch prop on, but I am starting to get some slippage in the clutch when I accelerate.Did you find a buyer for your used engine or trading it in? It would be interested in knowing the total cost of the project after taking into account the sale of the used engine.Good luck with the project.Richard

 

[Paul Akers]

...and Pictures

They will become invaluable when reassembling and installing the new engine.

 

[Ed]

Ed thought you were headed this way?

Didn't know you were doing a repower...Best of luck with it..73EdS/V MYST

 

[CHET P]

Been there done that

Good luck ed, i repowered 3 years ago and it is not as bad as it sounds. only tough part is finding someone small enough to sit on the platform where the water heater sits and use a feeler gage to check allignment as you crank the mounting bolts. must be done with the water heater out and reinstall that after the enging is in. If you haven't considered one of the flexiable couplings between the 2 halves of the coupling... DO .. it takes up some of the alignment and dampens some vibration... agian.. good luck, it took me about 2 weeks from start to finish ...later chet

 

[Ed Schenck]

Headin' that way. . .

Ed. Need some new power to get down there though. Either this fall or next spring.I will definitely be taking pictures. I will also replace the stuffing box hose and clamps. Stern tube also if it appears corroded. I see no need for a dripless box as the dripless GFO packing has worked well for six summers.That's a good tip about leaving the tank out until after alignment Chet. Is it really that hard to do lying in the q-berth and hanging through that opening? It is the way I worked on the shaft coupling and did not seem too bad.An option with the 3YM is a high-rise exhaust elbow. My 2QM20 rather has a high loop in the exhaust hose. Seems that should be sufficient to keep the outlet above the waterline. Also noticed that intake/injectors(strbrd) and exhaust manifold/heat exchanger(port) are on opposite sides with the new engine.

 

[Terry Arnold]

hoisting engine in and out

With a good topping lift, the boom and mainsheet were quite adequate for pulling and then reinstalling my 2gm from bayhorse, my H33. With a helper, the mainsheet tackle is probably more sensitive and controllable than a shorebased lift. Also, With the engine hoisted and the boat against a finger pier, the boom with engine was easily rotated over the finger pier and the engine deposited in a dock cart, again using the mainsheet tackle. The three cylinder engine would be heavier but the same procedure should work.

 

[Seattle Scott]

Tip for north Ed

My raw water strainer is in the bildge close to the intake valve, while you can't see what is in it, like you can with your engine room mount, my location minimizes the hose run from the thru hull to the strainer. Seems it would be easier cleaning out 12-18 inches of hose rather than 3 ft of hose. What do you think?

 

[Ed]

some thoughts

Glad to hear your back at it. This sounds like a great improvement. As you know i had my 4cyl out and its a bit of a hastle. i made a fixture shaped like a big C it attaches to a hoist crane or what ever. i used a hoist at the club. the c. reached under to get over the top of the engine. so it can be lifted level. makes it a ton easier than restling it out. Motor mounts. be sure to replace them. put in the proper front and rears with the new engine they are different. Shaft. as you know i opened up the side of my engine room and found the shaft alingment to be fairly easy. Prop the shaft up in the center of the tube before you start and move the engine to it. I also used a shaft saver in the coupling. great deal. It however doesnt mean you can do less alignment. if its not strait it just ruins the shaft saver and warrenty wont cover that. it has to be straight!make sure you have a shaft that is adequate for the new hp. not sure what yours is but mine really should be a size bigger in dia. and you will have to shorten it a bit to get the shaft saver in there. while your at it make sure you got enough room to put on some line cutters on the shaft. this would be a comfort on the trip south. crap posts everywhere!hmmm oH Scotts idea on the strainer in the bilge works great easy to get at and no mess in the engine room.and For Rich in Milwakee. Go ahead and get that gear fixed now! Dont wait! if you let it go it will be trash, but get a qualified guy to do it.I used mastry engine in st. pete and mine came out great. keep in touch. Ed A

 

[Seattle Scott]

Hey Chet you stole North Ed's thunder

with your repower pics in the project forum. What's going on with your mod to the sole in front of the engine? My yanmar 4 cyl sits only a couple inches from back of steps. If I had your set up I would fill that space with sound proofing both on back of steps and under the lift out top. We need to start a "show me your engine" thread.

 

[CHET]

3 cylinder is shorter

what you see is the starting battery. when i installed the engine i moved it back as far as possible and used the old shaft( i did the engine change in the water ) and left enough room to install the shaft saver between the coupling halves. that left enough room to put the battery in front of the engine as you see it. i installed soundproofing on the back side of the stairs and the top of the engine compartment but it still resonates thru the bottom of the cockpit. the exhaust hose from the waterlift muffler is attached to the bottom of the cockpit sole and angled down towards the exhaust flange which is located just above the waterline (at rest..underway it is wet) so no water backflushes into the engine that way nor from the water inlet to the mixing elbow on the exhaust...

 

[Richard McDonald]

Tampa Ed

I can hear the clutch slip when I power up from a stop or reverse and try too accelerate fast, if I throttle back and then forward again slowly there is no slip. I don't have any slippage all the way up to max RPM and to 6+ knots if I accelerate at a reasonable rate. It's been like that for the last couple of seasons and quite frankly not sure if it's been like that since I purchase the boat 3 1/2 years ago.I read through the 2QM20 engine manual and can't see any adjustment or correction that can be done without removing the transmission or complete engine. Am I missing something here? What do I need done?

 

[Phil Herring]

You go Ed!

nm

 

[Sanders]

U R amazing, Ed

Can't wait for the progress reports.Good luckSanders

 

[ED]

rich milwalkee

Rick good to talk again. you will need to get the gear out. on my 4 cyl the transmission bolted to the housing and the engine mounts did too. so i could not pull the gear separatly. but if you could it would be ok to do it. you will have to look at yours. i had to pull it.thats all the really bad news. with a few guys and a lift you can pull it in a few hours. set in on some skids and you can get to everything. great time to paint the engine clean everything up and check it all out. the transmisson is doing the same thing mine did. exactly. there is no way to make it better. just have to bite the bullit and pull it. like i said you will need to have a pro on those transmissions do it. special tool and knowlege is worth it. Put it in car and drive down we will sail till its fixed.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Clutch slippage.

Rich, what have you done in attempting a fix of the tranny? Have you changed the oil? I noticed a big improvement first time I pulled out the old oil and dumped in new.

 

[Richard McDonald]

Ed & Ed.....

Huron Ed,I change the oil on the tranny yearly and don't see any difference. I would say that the slippage has remained consistent over the last couple of seasons and since I am aware of it and don't try to accelerate fast if I don't need to. Last year I had to switch back quickly from forward to reverse then to full throttle to miss hitting a 20 footer that decide to back out of his slip without looking, curious enough the tranny does not slip in reverse. Anyway, I have not done anything to fix it except reading up on the issues to see if there is an adjustment but it looks like to only way is to pull it out of the boat and disassemble it. I figure that if I have to pull the engine I may as well re-power but will try to live with the situation another season or two. Keep notes on your re-power since I will probably end up with the same scenario as you.Tampa Ed,I would definitely jump on your offer but it's to short of a notice to pull the engine since I am leaving (drive) for Florida in the morning. I am a new grandpa since 10 days ago and heading down to visit my daughter and new grand daughter in Vero Beach, via Jacksonville and then Miami for business. I may end up in Tampa on the weekend of March 11-12 on the way back to WI, I have a couple of customers that I may try to see on Monday the 13 in your area. I miss-placed and can't find your phone number, so if you are in town and we could possibly hookup let me know and send me your number via my email: rmcdonald(@)ppcts.com (that's my business email address)