I just began redoing the plumbing hoses on my recently purchased 1986 C25; I just realized the PO left me with a full holding tank and hoses that were permeated enough to get into everything on the boat (curtains,carpet, etc.). It's like being in a heavy smokers house, except, I'll take the smoke smell any day over this. I went with Peggy's suggestion of the Trident 101. The boat already had a macerator pump which still works, but it was connected directly to the discharge on the holding tank. I didn't know that as I pumped and pumped in vain trying to emplty the thing. So now that all is removed, sanitized and clean, I'm looking for the correct setup. Hopefully I can explain my thoughts on the system without a diagram.
I plan to:
1. Run a 1 3/4" Trident 101 from the pump out to a y-valve1. Y-valve1 to the holding tank discharge port. Third y-valve1 port to the thru-hull discharge with the macerator pump between. I think i would have to use 1" Trident from the macerator pump to a y-valve2 at the thru-hull. The y-valve1 would be locked unless we were in a legal discharge zone.
2. Run a Trident 101 from toilet discharge to a y-valve3 to allow for holding tank or overboard discharge. Y-valve3 to the holding tank inlet. Third y-valve3 port to y-valve2 at the thru-hull discharge. It seems like a lot of y-valves but I'm not sure if I can just tee it where the macerator pump and the toilet discharge meet at the thru-hull.
3. Although I probably won't flush with sea water much if at all, I will tee the toilet intake hose and the bathroom sink drain together at the thru-hull just forward of the waste discharge thru-hull. This allows for either sea water or gray water flush. I haven' seen it mentioned before, but wouldn't it make sense to put a shutoff at the tee/sink drain junction so that the drain doesn't have to be plugged to flush with sea water. It doesn't seem like there would be enough vacuum to pull in sea water if the drain were open.
I haven't seen or heard the use of 3 y-valves from here or any of Don Casey's books; I don't think that I have seen someone with the ability to dump the holding tank and direct discharge as separate hoses. Most go to holding tank and then overboard.
I hope that is somewhat understandable without a diagram. If not, I'll fire up the scanner and put a diagram on a post.
One last question:
I bought the blue and red braided potable water lines. The 1" line for the water holding tank fill has a kink in one area that I cannot get out. When I received it via mail order, it looked like the end of a roll and was mostly oval and not round. If it gets a kink in it where the braiding reinforcement is cry he'd at some point, is that the end and that area will always kink or do I just need to reroute with a different radius.
Thanks for taking the time to read. I hope it make sense.
Tom
I plan to:
1. Run a 1 3/4" Trident 101 from the pump out to a y-valve1. Y-valve1 to the holding tank discharge port. Third y-valve1 port to the thru-hull discharge with the macerator pump between. I think i would have to use 1" Trident from the macerator pump to a y-valve2 at the thru-hull. The y-valve1 would be locked unless we were in a legal discharge zone.
2. Run a Trident 101 from toilet discharge to a y-valve3 to allow for holding tank or overboard discharge. Y-valve3 to the holding tank inlet. Third y-valve3 port to y-valve2 at the thru-hull discharge. It seems like a lot of y-valves but I'm not sure if I can just tee it where the macerator pump and the toilet discharge meet at the thru-hull.
3. Although I probably won't flush with sea water much if at all, I will tee the toilet intake hose and the bathroom sink drain together at the thru-hull just forward of the waste discharge thru-hull. This allows for either sea water or gray water flush. I haven' seen it mentioned before, but wouldn't it make sense to put a shutoff at the tee/sink drain junction so that the drain doesn't have to be plugged to flush with sea water. It doesn't seem like there would be enough vacuum to pull in sea water if the drain were open.
I haven't seen or heard the use of 3 y-valves from here or any of Don Casey's books; I don't think that I have seen someone with the ability to dump the holding tank and direct discharge as separate hoses. Most go to holding tank and then overboard.
I hope that is somewhat understandable without a diagram. If not, I'll fire up the scanner and put a diagram on a post.
One last question:
I bought the blue and red braided potable water lines. The 1" line for the water holding tank fill has a kink in one area that I cannot get out. When I received it via mail order, it looked like the end of a roll and was mostly oval and not round. If it gets a kink in it where the braiding reinforcement is cry he'd at some point, is that the end and that area will always kink or do I just need to reroute with a different radius.
Thanks for taking the time to read. I hope it make sense.
Tom
