I asked before but I can't find the answer given: What kind of wood is used in the interior and are there stronger options. Thanks in advance.
Replacing wood holding chain plates
- Thread starter Herco Dunlop
- Start date
- Status
They used a Teak marine plywood Herco. Like Squidd said, you need to make sure those chainplates never leak again and the bulkhead will last.
Knowing what I know now, and because of the fact that I reworked all the wood in my cabin and gave it a dark red Mahogany color, if I ever had to replace my bulkhead I wouldn't use Teak plywood. A regular marine plywood would work just as well for red Mahogany stain. It was a lot of work removing all the wood out of my cabin and refinishing it back then, but I kind of like that color better than Teak.
Joe
Knowing what I know now, and because of the fact that I reworked all the wood in my cabin and gave it a dark red Mahogany color, if I ever had to replace my bulkhead I wouldn't use Teak plywood. A regular marine plywood would work just as well for red Mahogany stain. It was a lot of work removing all the wood out of my cabin and refinishing it back then, but I kind of like that color better than Teak.
Joe
Thanks guys. This week I will replace the wood and all the standing rigging. The mast has two pins, one bigger than the other. Should I remove the smalller first and bring the mast down on the cockpit or vice versa? Clearly not a one-man job but I figure I can ease it down with the halyards.
If you're going to drop the mast aft, you'll need to remove the front pin and let the tabernacle pivot on the rear pin. What you need to do first is to set up something at your stern pulpit temporarily just to have something for the mast to lay on so that it doesn't hit your companionway sliding hatch. I've used a small step ladder and tied it to the stern rail. Once you get that mast down you want it to sit on something high enough to clear the cabin until you can remove the rear pin.
You could take two 2X4s and bolt them together so they resemble a large pair of scissors and tie it to your stern rail. Figure the height needed to clear the cabin roof and cut it to fit.
Take a single sheave block and attach it to your bow chainplate and run a 60'X 3/8" line through it. Hook one end of the line to you Jib halyard shackle, run it up and cleat it off at the bottom of the mast.
You could use this line to hold your mast while you remove the forestay.
Get a couple of guys to help you on this.
Make sure the boat is level. Try to keep the wind directly coming from aft. One guy can stand in the cockpit and two guys on the cabin guiding the mast down and place it in the apex of the 2X4s.
After this, you may want to build a Gin Pole and a mast crutch and do it by yourself. It just takes some figuring and a little woodwork.
P.S. I have begun the work. I single-handedly lowered the mast (not a good idea) with your method and it worked. I have removed the port bulkhead (alone as well) and will replace it with marine-grade plywood. Can I use a smaller wood (just enough for the chainplate) to give more space? Without the bulkhead the cabin looks bigger. I was thinking reducing the port bulkhead to the width of the s/b bulkhead and leave the 2x4 to hold up the mast. Maybe add another 2x4 for more support. Thanks.
- Status