I’ve noticed water collecting around the prop shaft and working its way to the bilge. Probably 2 to 3 pints after 10-hour voyage. I don’t think it’s coming in at the prop shaft bearing. I think it’s coming in at the open/close control valve at the engine cooling intake through-hull. I’m looking for advice on replacing the valve without hauling the boat. Am I crazy to even attempt this?
Replacing valve at engine cooling through hull intake. Beneteau 331
- Thread starter Boomtown
- Start date
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,752
Your query is very similar to that of @acudavid today...
If all you have to do is unscrew the valve and screw a replacement on to the through hull you might be able to accomplish the task without sinking the boat. This will not be without considerable strain on your nerves.
In warm waters sailors will dive beneath their boat and stuff a rag into the through hull to stem the water and then make the valve change.
See my pictures in the above post. In this case the valve fell apart in my hand. It would have been spewing water for a while. Then when I began to try and get the bottom part of the valve off, the through hull spun. Knowing that the through hull seal was compromised, I removed and replaced both through hull and valve. Something not possible with the boat in the water.
If this is a new experience, I would caution that on the hard you have more options and less stress.
leaky boat
Hi, I've had my 1977 Lancer 30 since September. Before I ran its motor, there was very little in the way of seepage into the bilge. The deck was designed without any real channel for drainage from rainwater or heavy dew, and water would accumulate on the aft section of the deck. The deck has...
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If all you have to do is unscrew the valve and screw a replacement on to the through hull you might be able to accomplish the task without sinking the boat. This will not be without considerable strain on your nerves.
In warm waters sailors will dive beneath their boat and stuff a rag into the through hull to stem the water and then make the valve change.
See my pictures in the above post. In this case the valve fell apart in my hand. It would have been spewing water for a while. Then when I began to try and get the bottom part of the valve off, the through hull spun. Knowing that the through hull seal was compromised, I removed and replaced both through hull and valve. Something not possible with the boat in the water.
If this is a new experience, I would caution that on the hard you have more options and less stress.
Can it be done…yes.
Should it be done intentionally…no.
IF everything goes smoothly, you could probably do it as the guy in the video did…
but…
- what happens if you loosen the skin fitting and now it leaks…
- what if you cross-thread the new valve and can’t get it to screw on…
- what if the old skin fitting is brittle and breaks off while you try to get the old valve of…
All of these “What ifs…” would sink you boat…
Hardly worth the risk I think.
I would line up all my “when I haul out” projects, get them organized and haul out…
Greg
Should it be done intentionally…no.
IF everything goes smoothly, you could probably do it as the guy in the video did…
but…
- what happens if you loosen the skin fitting and now it leaks…
- what if you cross-thread the new valve and can’t get it to screw on…
- what if the old skin fitting is brittle and breaks off while you try to get the old valve of…
All of these “What ifs…” would sink you boat…
Hardly worth the risk I think.
I would line up all my “when I haul out” projects, get them organized and haul out…
Greg
When you're working in this area, don't think you know anything, make sure you know before proceeding.
Wrap the suspect area with paper towel, powder the suspect area with baby powder. You obviously don't know what's leaking and you might be surprised if it's not what you think.
Thank you all for your thoughtful replies and support. I have confirmed that there is a drip at the intake valve mechanism. But the fitting seems to have some integrity and in the absence of a good plan B, I feel happy to deal with an occasional pint of water, monitor the situation and replace the seacock and through hull when I haul out in the spring. I did a very thorough bottom job a year ago and was hoping for another season or two before hauling out again. But this will give me an opportunity to take care of other on-the-hard projects, and to re-touch the paint along the waterline. Thank you again everyone for your time and patience.
Do I take it that the leak is at the valve threads on the inlet side ? ? ?
If so, try not to kick the valve before haul out. The leakage is a little on the heavy side. Lightly scrape the thru hull threads and valve to be sure there's no galvanic corrosion going on in there.
No it was a sermon an old preacher friend used doing pulpit supply after he retired. Over the years I think I heard it half a dozen times.Your wife finding that incriminating e-mail?
He was a good man.
Definitely would replace on haulout. If the thru Hull fitting breaks or becomes unsealed, while in the water, going to be an emergency. From the looks of the fitting & age of the boat, I would change the entire assembly. When I changed some of mine, I used Groco bronze fittings with BSPP threads on the thru Hull, valve, & tailpiece. All threads are the same with no mixing of tapered & straight threads. The Groco BSPP fittings can be ordered directly from Groco.