leaky boat

Nov 11, 2021
38
Lancer 30-2 Marina Del Rey
Hi,
I've had my 1977 Lancer 30 since September. Before I ran its motor, there was very little in the way of seepage into the bilge. The deck was designed without any real channel for drainage from rainwater or heavy dew, and water would accumulate on the aft section of the deck. The deck has an anodized aluminum tow rail which would allow any serious water to drain. But over the years, there has been enough sitting water to penetrate. I have removed stanchion posts and sealed them, and think the integrity of the deck is fine--no soft spots, but suspect the toe rails need to be removed, the deck edge sealed, and then replaced. There are additional small leaks along the two handrails above the cabin, as well as both hatches to the deck. These are all minor leaks. I sealed a bunch of minor leaks along the eight cabin windows, which are now water tight. It's an old boat--no complaints about some work.
What I need help with is the water that accumulates when I motor the boat. At first, I would motor out of the harbor for about 15 -20 minutes, raise the sails and sail for a few hours, and then return to harbor, drop the sails and motor back for another 15-20 minutes. The boat would accumulate 10-12 ounces of water, which I would wet vac out and measure before I dumped it. The water has no oil residue.
I sail out of Marina Del Rey, and this November, our Santa Ana winds have started. For everyone who is outside of Southern California, our prevailing winds for 10 months of the year come from the Pacific Ocean, and for two months from the desert. The Santa Ana winds usually calm down in the day and are very gusty at night. Daytime winds are very unpredictable in direction and speed. I try to take my boat out 2 or 3 times a week, so lack of wind just means we run the diesel when the wind stops. (The diesel is an original one-cylinder Yanmar 12 hp that has had a recent over-hall with all major gaskets replaced)
At first the diesel was extremely loud, and I was told by the mechanic that it would run a lot better as we ran it more and more. I thought this was pre-sale bull (the previous owner had the diesel mechanic who performed the over-hall at the boat when I made the purchase). But he was telling the truth. During the Santa Ana winds, there wind stopped a couple of times and we motored for 2-3 hours at a time on 4 occasions. The motor is much quieter and also runs much smoother.
Here is the reason for the post. Now the bilge accumulated more like a quart or more after motoring, but also now leaks overnight. It is leaking about 15-18 ounces per 24 hour period. The only other thing that changed during this period where the leaking increased, is that I replaced both batteries. I was concerned that maybe I kicked one of the thru-hulls, which could be leaking. I am not a very good mechanic, and the bilge is very tight. So I inspected what I could, and the only dampness is under where the drive shaft exits the hull. I have attached pics of the bilge. Being a newbie, I don't know what I am looking at.
How do the thru-hulls look? To a novice, they look unbelievable corroded and green.
I am planning on repainting the bottom in a few months and addressing any thru hulls that need replacement. I also want to perform and needed rudder maintenance. There are no manuals for my boat and Lancer went out of business about 30 years ago, so any guidance would be much appreciated. What is a normal amount for the packing gland to leak and what should I do?
 

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Tom J

.
Sep 30, 2008
2,304
Catalina 310 Quincy, MA
The packing gland should leak a drop or two every ten seconds or so while the boat is in gear. It should not leak when the gear is in neutral. The leaks you describe do not seem excessive. Your could run the boat in gear while at the dock and observe the packing gland to verify how much it leaks. By the looks of the gland, it has not been adjusted in a long time. You will need to soak it with a good oil [PB Blaster,etc.].
 
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Likes: ggrizzard
Sep 25, 2008
7,096
Alden 50 Sarasota, Florida
The packing gland looks suspect, the thruhulls are very corroded and most of the hose clamps are rusted and not double clamped. A little water accumulation is just lucky.
 
Oct 22, 2014
21,088
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
The corrosion on the through hull would bother me.
EA59FB72-D8F5-4E46-AE1C-0314EC678347_1_201_a.jpeg

I would be scheduling a haul out to replace the valve and through hull.
My reasoning comes from an experience last year.
Here is what it looked like.
1465709C-F7B6-4596-A48C-031CDC1B3C5A.jpeg
Here is what I found when I tried to remove the through hull. It broke a part in my hands.
8B460593-5CC1-4E63-823E-1DF6E312912C.jpeg
I take no risks when I have a boat from the 70's that I do not know the age or the condition of a through hull.

This is your boat and your decision.
Choose wisely.
 
  • Helpful
Likes: FastOlson
Aug 19, 2021
495
Hunter 280 White House Cove Marina
Choose wisely.
Every time I hear or read "Choose wisely" I think of Indiana Jones and the Holy Grail.

Grail Knight : But choose wisely, for while the true Grail will bring you life, the false Grail will take it from you.

If it is accumulating 20 ounces per day, there should be a wet spot from a leak or a water trail from the seeping thru. Do not forget to inspect raw water system on your motor it could be a hose or a gasket.

Good luck
 
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Likes: jssailem
Nov 23, 2020
30
Hunter 45DS Seattle
All -- Read this thread with interested. We have an '09 Hunter 45DS that was accumulating 3-6 cups of water in the bilge after motoring due to the normal seepage around the shaft. The thing is, we have been working to get rid of moisture sources to stay ahead of the damp smell and potential breeding ground for mold. To address the issue, we created a "sump" under the shaft using a plastic organizer tray epoxied in place for stability. We drain is using a turkey baster every few trips and on long-haul motoring days will keep an eye on it. The only challenge is when we are healing 10 degrees+ if there is water in the tray -- in that case, we can get a bit of spill over but even when that happens, it just goes to the bilge.

Overall, the solution worked and we have a dry bilge for some time now!

Sean & Lori
 

PaulK

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Dec 1, 2009
1,241
Sabre 402 Southport, CT
We had water accumulation in the bilge while under way, but not at anchor. Turned out it was coming in the rudderpost, which was above the waterline at rest, but had the stern wave cover it when sailing or motoring. Repacked the stuffing box there and end of problem. The trick was to stick your head under the cockpit and watch it happen while sailing, instead of being on deck enjoying the sail.
 
May 24, 2004
7,131
CC 30 South Florida
It does sound like the packing gland after motoring for an extended period and sitting overnight. Finding water in the bilge after being out in rough waters or the boat sitting overnight in motion because of lapping waves does not necessarily means there are leaks. Your boat like has many gallons of water trapped in the hull stringers under the sole and every time the boat gets in motion some of that water may be released into the bilge. That water that accumulates in the hull comes from rain leaks, washdowns, plumbing leaks, wet bathing suits, galley spills, sea spray, etc. Check the drip from the Packing gland and there should be none when the shaft is not turning. Measure any water in the bilge after a night of calm waters and no rain. If it continues to show 15-18 ounces overnight you have a leak that seems to be getting worse. Beware on the Yanmar GM 1 if a water leak develops at the raw water pump it will drip down and eventually corrode the oil lines that run under it.
 

capta

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Jun 4, 2009
4,772
Pearson 530 Admiralty Bay, Bequia SVG
Take heart. There is a wonderful book called "The Boat that wouldn't float". After reading it, nobody will feel that their boat is anything less than the Queen's yacht.
 
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Likes: jssailem
Nov 11, 2021
38
Lancer 30-2 Marina Del Rey
Benny17441
Said
"Your boat like has many gallons of water trapped in the hull stringers under the sole and every time the boat gets in motion some of that water may be released into the bilge. That water that accumulates in the hull comes from rain leaks, washdowns, plumbing leaks, wet bathing suits, galley spills, sea spray, etc."

I was wondering about this. There is very little visible structural wood in my boat, and most of it was replaced by a prior owner--probably due to termite damage. What looks like wood beams encased in fiberglass run across my hull (beam reach). I have no idea if they are wet. Would it be beneficial to put a dehumidifier in the boat? I could open the engine access cover and put a small fan in the stern, facing forward, remove the storage compartment covers, and try to dry out the surfaces of the bilge areas. Or will I just be removing water vapor from the marina-air?

As I mentioned in my post, my thru-hulls "look unbelievable corroded and green " to me. Is there any kind of maintenance that I can do to clean them up? Would CLR or something stronger be good.

I am trying to find a place to repaint my bottom and replace anything that is needed in the next month or so. In our area, (probably all over) boating has exploded during the pandemic, and now the local boat yards have raised prices by 50% or more from last year.

I plan to post again to ask about my thru-hulls. I have two in the bow and three by the engine, and maybe more? Does anyone know what it costs to replace thru-hulls? I will take separate pics of each and then post.

Thanks everyone!