Replacing Traveller Line on Track Car

[Pacata]

I need to replace the mainsheet traveller control line. I am guessing I need to remove the alan wrench bolts and remove the pully wheel.
I am worried about stripping the bolt.
I have applied penetrating lubricant and I am letting it sit for a few days.

Any recommendations?

 

[Joe]

Cut it off. Use the existing sheave to add additional purchase by anchoring the bitter end of the control line to the outboard end of the track. If you have trouble visualizing that connection, post a picture and one of us will help you figure it out.

Can't figure out why you haven't tried to unscrew the bolt... it's a hex head... literally impossible to strip unless you use the wrong size wrench.

If you want to duplicate, and are still afraid of the hex, just cut off the old line and tie a knot with the new one....do you think anyone's gonna notice it's not a spliced eye? Buntline hitch would work well because you can cinch it up tight to the fitting.

 

[Pacata]

Thank you,
I tried to loosed the hex head but it was not budging, so I added lubricant.
Great advice on the Buntline hitch, If the hex wont loosen I take you advice.

 

[Ron20324]

Thank you,
I tried to loosed the hex head but it was not budging, so I added lubricant.
Great advice on the Buntline hitch, If the hex wont loosen I take you advice.

You might put a piece of pipe to extend the wrench handle to increse leverage. Have someone else hold the hex wrench down. maybe even give the wrench a CW whack, then go CCW to loosen.

 

[dlochner]

While you are messing around with the traveller car, remove the fiddle block and inspect the 2 shackles for wear. A little bit of wear can significantly reduce the strength of the shackle and cause them to fail at a most inopportune time. The safety margin can be reduced by as much as 50%.

 

[Scott T-Bird]

I'm not familiar with that car, but I suppose I would attempt to use a hex head with an impact driver to remove it. I have experience with snapping the heads off with that method, though. Doing that, I might then buy a new car. I don't usually hesitate to remove and replace. I would cut the line and tie a knot with a new line only as a temporary measure. Not that I don't like knots for the way they work. I don't usually like them for the way they look in some circumstances. In some places they look pretty neat!

 

[Ron20324]

Hhmmm... looks like those 2 screws go into the aluminum (or whatever) body. That's a forever deal. Maybe best to cut the rope and tie on a new one.

 

[jssailem]

The car appears to be designed with a sheave. The sheave is being used as a terminus not a sheave. No purchase advantage there.

What does the rest of the system look like? Perhaps you can run the lines differently gaining a 2-1 purchase on the car by use of the sheave.

 

[Pacata]

Thank you, I will certainly inspect the Fiddle Block. I have been replacing blocks and line this year.

 

[Pacata]

I'm not familiar with that car, but I suppose I would attempt to use a hex head with an impact driver to remove it. I have experience with snapping the heads off with that method, though. Doing that, I might then buy a new car. I don't usually hesitate to remove and replace. I would cut the line and tie a knot with a new line only as a temporary measure. Not that I don't like knots for the way they work. I don't usually like them for the way they look in some circumstances. In some places they look pretty neat!

I am not sure of the type of car, I certainly would not have an issue replacing it if needed. I prefer the splice but would rather know it is not going to fail at a critical moment.
Thank you for the reply

 

[Pacata]

The car appears to be designed with a sheave. The sheave is being used as a terminus not a sheave. No purchase advantage there.

What does the rest of the system look like? Perhaps you can run the lines differently gaining a 2-1 purchase on the car by use of the sheave.

Good point, I will look into it.
Thank you

 

[DrJudyB]

Hhmmm... looks like those 2 screws go into the aluminum (or whatever) body. That's a forever deal. Maybe best to cut the rope and tie on a new one.

Agreed. That’s a stainless bolt in aluminum. The aluminum is less noble than stainless and is likely very corroded. The aluminum oxide can freeze the bolt despite generous application of penetrating oil and an impact wrench.

With enough corrosion, the aluminum crumbles away and the SS bolt pulls out of the aluminum.

Rinse those travelers, folks, every time you put the boat away! And when you install it, use Telgel.

 

[thinwater]

Remove a stuck screw just to replace a line? I would never bother.

• Use a bowline. It will work fine.
• Use a sewn splice. Just as neat and easy to do in place.
• Splice in place.

Remember that this is a low-stress application (hand tensioned). Also, I would use the sheave as a pulley, as others have suggested.

Heat shrink would be a little neater.