I would like any advice on replacing the stock Oday tiller with a new tiller. The split end tiller has seen better days and it is time for a new one. I hope to replace it with one that not only curves up a little, to provide more leg room, but also one that isn't forked at the end. Does anyone have any suggestions about how to do this ?
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Justin - O'day Owners' Web
Tiller
Darren - You will need a tiller that is similar at the rudder end to the one you are replacing or you may wind up doing a lot of frabricating. The other dimmensions you can fudge as long as it clears the transom and the seats. For a direct replacement hit the D and R link on the links page and talk to Rudy Nickerson. For a custom tiller that will fit your boat go to West Marine. They can custom order almost any design. Justin - O'day Owners' Web
Darren - You will need a tiller that is similar at the rudder end to the one you are replacing or you may wind up doing a lot of frabricating. The other dimmensions you can fudge as long as it clears the transom and the seats. For a direct replacement hit the D and R link on the links page and talk to Rudy Nickerson. For a custom tiller that will fit your boat go to West Marine. They can custom order almost any design. Justin - O'day Owners' Web
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Rich
Just the thing for you...
Hi, Darren: I did exactly what you're thinking about. No regrets and love the new setup. My original forked tiller was ready to continue splitting at the fork, the pin/bolt was missing and I hated the thought of banged knees, etc. After searching this site and getting the "see Rudy @ D & R" stock response, I decided to think outside the box and looked for options in other arenas. I found what I consider to be the perfect choice/alternative. These items are made and sold for J22s and J24s but they fit the O'Day 22 like they were designed for it. I bought a paid of stainless steel Tiller Stiffener Straps (model #OL1025) for $59.95 and a Laminated wooden tiller by H & L Marine (Item #HM112F) for $50.95 from Annapolis Performance Sailing (see related link below). The straps are far superior in strength and function to the old wooden fork concept. The new tiller is 43" long and has a 7" curved rise, allowing me to sit nearly against the transom or anywhere else in the cockpit without banging knees, etc., while steering. Note well: if you order the Tiller on-line, the description is incorrect for the model number (i.e., reversed)--you need the 43" long version with the 7" rise for the J22/J24 but the correct model # is the HM112F for $50.95 (even though their pricing shows the J22/J24 tiller as $53.95 for the HM1251F). Trust me, I originally ordered the $53.95 model and had to send it back. Once I got the right tiller, all I had to do was drill a few holes for mounting the straps to the un-drilled tiller butt end. I used a pair of vise-grip quick clamps to position the straps properly on the tiller for drilling the holes for thru-bolts(after also positioning it on the rudder head so that the pivot point would match the existing hole in the rudder head and so that the end of the tiller butt would rest on top of the small ledge/indentation of the rudder head [where the old tiller rested]). Making sure that the butt end will rest on that little ledge keeps the tiller from falling below a horizontal position and rubbing on the stern rail. After drilling all the holes in the tiller, I sealed the bare wood inside the holes with a light coat of unthickened epoxy (to avoid rot/delamination). I thru-bolted the straps to the tiller with stainless 1/4" x 20 bolts, washers and nylock nuts capped with stainless acorn nuts (for smooth, round ends). I also used a 1/4" x 20 stainless carriage bolt, 2 stainless washers, stainless nylock nut and stainless acorn nut to attach the straps at the pivot hole of the rudder head, carefully putting a nylon washer on each side of the rudder head, sandwiched between the rudder head and the straps to cut down on friction/wear during raises and lowers of the new tiller. Maybe overkill but my new tiller goes up and down smoothly yet stays put anywhere I leave it; I'm not worried about it digging/gouging holes into the rudder head, either. I have a picture or two. I'll try to upload here when I get to my other computer. Any questions, post back here or e-mail me at rpljr@bellsouth.net Good Luck. Rich s/v TIME BANDIT 1975 O'Day 22
Hi, Darren: I did exactly what you're thinking about. No regrets and love the new setup. My original forked tiller was ready to continue splitting at the fork, the pin/bolt was missing and I hated the thought of banged knees, etc. After searching this site and getting the "see Rudy @ D & R" stock response, I decided to think outside the box and looked for options in other arenas. I found what I consider to be the perfect choice/alternative. These items are made and sold for J22s and J24s but they fit the O'Day 22 like they were designed for it. I bought a paid of stainless steel Tiller Stiffener Straps (model #OL1025) for $59.95 and a Laminated wooden tiller by H & L Marine (Item #HM112F) for $50.95 from Annapolis Performance Sailing (see related link below). The straps are far superior in strength and function to the old wooden fork concept. The new tiller is 43" long and has a 7" curved rise, allowing me to sit nearly against the transom or anywhere else in the cockpit without banging knees, etc., while steering. Note well: if you order the Tiller on-line, the description is incorrect for the model number (i.e., reversed)--you need the 43" long version with the 7" rise for the J22/J24 but the correct model # is the HM112F for $50.95 (even though their pricing shows the J22/J24 tiller as $53.95 for the HM1251F). Trust me, I originally ordered the $53.95 model and had to send it back. Once I got the right tiller, all I had to do was drill a few holes for mounting the straps to the un-drilled tiller butt end. I used a pair of vise-grip quick clamps to position the straps properly on the tiller for drilling the holes for thru-bolts(after also positioning it on the rudder head so that the pivot point would match the existing hole in the rudder head and so that the end of the tiller butt would rest on top of the small ledge/indentation of the rudder head [where the old tiller rested]). Making sure that the butt end will rest on that little ledge keeps the tiller from falling below a horizontal position and rubbing on the stern rail. After drilling all the holes in the tiller, I sealed the bare wood inside the holes with a light coat of unthickened epoxy (to avoid rot/delamination). I thru-bolted the straps to the tiller with stainless 1/4" x 20 bolts, washers and nylock nuts capped with stainless acorn nuts (for smooth, round ends). I also used a 1/4" x 20 stainless carriage bolt, 2 stainless washers, stainless nylock nut and stainless acorn nut to attach the straps at the pivot hole of the rudder head, carefully putting a nylon washer on each side of the rudder head, sandwiched between the rudder head and the straps to cut down on friction/wear during raises and lowers of the new tiller. Maybe overkill but my new tiller goes up and down smoothly yet stays put anywhere I leave it; I'm not worried about it digging/gouging holes into the rudder head, either. I have a picture or two. I'll try to upload here when I get to my other computer. Any questions, post back here or e-mail me at rpljr@bellsouth.net Good Luck. Rich s/v TIME BANDIT 1975 O'Day 22
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Rich
Darren, Tiller Photos on forum
Darren, As promised, I posted some photos of the new tiller and straps here in the Photo Forum. post again if you have any questions. Rich s/v TIME BANDIT 1975 O'Day 22
Darren, As promised, I posted some photos of the new tiller and straps here in the Photo Forum. post again if you have any questions. Rich s/v TIME BANDIT 1975 O'Day 22
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proto57
Great solution, Rich
I looked at the pictures... that is a wonderful solution to the tiller "problem". It looks stronger, cleaner and more elegant than the original. Thanks! Rich SC.
I looked at the pictures... that is a wonderful solution to the tiller "problem". It looks stronger, cleaner and more elegant than the original. Thanks! Rich SC.
D
Darren
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