I need to replace a Thru Hull Depth transducer. I was told by the manufacture that I should use Life Caulk. The Life Caulk says to let cure for 7 days. Is there another caulk that will cure faster so as not to cut in to my sailing time? Thanks
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Life caulk
Life caulk will cure while under water. Bed it let it sit until it skins over and drop it in the water. If you can leave it at least 24 hours before dropping it in the water,it would be best. I just did it last weekend and the seal is holding great.
Life caulk will cure while under water. Bed it let it sit until it skins over and drop it in the water. If you can leave it at least 24 hours before dropping it in the water,it would be best. I just did it last weekend and the seal is holding great.
Internal mounting
Have you thought about mounting the depth transducer inside the hull w/ West System on a clean flat surface. For thru hull bedding, we have had success with Life Caulk.
Have you thought about mounting the depth transducer inside the hull w/ West System on a clean flat surface. For thru hull bedding, we have had success with Life Caulk.
I would not use 5200 for thru hulls regardless.
Phil: I would not use 5200 for a thru hull regardless of where you are using it. 4200 & 5200 are both the same "basic" product, but 4200 properties do no include the adhesive properties of 5200. If you ever need to remove a thru hull fitting that has been "glued" with 5200 you will probably loose some gel coat and may some glass too. I thought that Life Caulk can be used underwater after something like 24 hrs and cures in xx days.
Phil: I would not use 5200 for a thru hull regardless of where you are using it. 4200 & 5200 are both the same "basic" product, but 4200 properties do no include the adhesive properties of 5200. If you ever need to remove a thru hull fitting that has been "glued" with 5200 you will probably loose some gel coat and may some glass too. I thought that Life Caulk can be used underwater after something like 24 hrs and cures in xx days.
5200 should NOT be used for anything
that may ever have to be taken apart. I believe it's only valid use is a hull to deck joint. Some disagree, I know that already.
that may ever have to be taken apart. I believe it's only valid use is a hull to deck joint. Some disagree, I know that already.
Sikaflex still the best.
Haul out, clean the old sealant out completely - rebed with Sikaflex - launch. Done like dinner.
Haul out, clean the old sealant out completely - rebed with Sikaflex - launch. Done like dinner.
Polysulfides
Life Caulk (like 3M “101") is a Polysulfide (“Thiokol”) adhesive sealant which cure by moisture. It’s best to apply polysulfides to dry surfaces, but mechanically fastened & polysufide sealed fittings can be submersed when tack-free (30 min. to 48 hrs), where they will continue their cure underwater. Sika Flex (like 3M “5200") is a Polyurethane adhesive sealant, which also cures by moisture. Both product types are suitable for bedding underwater fittings, though Polysulfides resist oil (think bilge), and have a less tenacious bond (for future removal).
Life Caulk (like 3M “101") is a Polysulfide (“Thiokol”) adhesive sealant which cure by moisture. It’s best to apply polysulfides to dry surfaces, but mechanically fastened & polysufide sealed fittings can be submersed when tack-free (30 min. to 48 hrs), where they will continue their cure underwater. Sika Flex (like 3M “5200") is a Polyurethane adhesive sealant, which also cures by moisture. Both product types are suitable for bedding underwater fittings, though Polysulfides resist oil (think bilge), and have a less tenacious bond (for future removal).
Recently did mine.
I recently replaced the speed and depth TD's on my boat. The new ones were composite plastic. Polysulfide (LifeCaulk) has a warning not to use it on plastic. So my next recommendation by the marina was to use 3M4200. It cures under water after a 1-2 hour "begin to cure" time. It worked fine for me. P.S. It is just a messy as LifeCaulk to use it. One small tube was enough.
I recently replaced the speed and depth TD's on my boat. The new ones were composite plastic. Polysulfide (LifeCaulk) has a warning not to use it on plastic. So my next recommendation by the marina was to use 3M4200. It cures under water after a 1-2 hour "begin to cure" time. It worked fine for me. P.S. It is just a messy as LifeCaulk to use it. One small tube was enough.
3M 5200 fast set
I know where Stu is coming from--3M's 5200 adhesive caulk is used on way too many things it doesn't need to be by factory guys armed with caulk guns--but it isn't IMPOSSIBLE to remove (using one of the current generation of adhesive removers like Goo Gone and a razor-blade paint scraper will save the gelcoat) and I would recommend the new fast-set version for your job. It dries faster and without some of the strange characteristics of the old original 5200 (but beware of screwing in threads when it's almost dry: air bubbles seem to get trapped within and expand the bead above your flat surface).
I know where Stu is coming from--3M's 5200 adhesive caulk is used on way too many things it doesn't need to be by factory guys armed with caulk guns--but it isn't IMPOSSIBLE to remove (using one of the current generation of adhesive removers like Goo Gone and a razor-blade paint scraper will save the gelcoat) and I would recommend the new fast-set version for your job. It dries faster and without some of the strange characteristics of the old original 5200 (but beware of screwing in threads when it's almost dry: air bubbles seem to get trapped within and expand the bead above your flat surface).
Read about a product that make it possible
to remove 5200 and its supposed to work really well. Its called Debond 2000. DIY Boating magazine had to take off a motorbracket that was loaded with 5200 and it seemed to do a really good job. Here is a copy of the articles from 3 magazines on the efficacy of Debond http://www.marineformula.com/Magazine/Magazines.htm
to remove 5200 and its supposed to work really well. Its called Debond 2000. DIY Boating magazine had to take off a motorbracket that was loaded with 5200 and it seemed to do a really good job. Here is a copy of the articles from 3 magazines on the efficacy of Debond http://www.marineformula.com/Magazine/Magazines.htm
I would agree if.......
I would agree IF you can get the antibond to come in contact with the 5200. This may be VERY difficult on a thru hull fitting that is basically upside down. You may get to the edge of a fitting, but there is a lot of surface area where this product will have one-hell-of-a-time reaching. Once again, what is the purpose of gluing something that has a mechanical fastener holding it in place? If this stuff is so great, why should you use fasteners?
I would agree IF you can get the antibond to come in contact with the 5200. This may be VERY difficult on a thru hull fitting that is basically upside down. You may get to the edge of a fitting, but there is a lot of surface area where this product will have one-hell-of-a-time reaching. Once again, what is the purpose of gluing something that has a mechanical fastener holding it in place? If this stuff is so great, why should you use fasteners?
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